Battery Life

I was very shocked when the battery on my 16 RS went dead. I pulled it out and could not believe that it was so small. Got a touch larger battery but I was disappointed I could not get an optima in that size.
Gator

I just replace them every 3y the cost is so minimal compared to the rest of total operating costs it's worth it to me.

gloucesterman said:

Hi,
Not my original post, but check out the following if you do decide to replace. A little cheaper and 2 more amp hr rating.

"I recently purchased and installed this battery from batterymart.com. It is nearly identical to the OEM in my 2014 R1200RT. Battery terminals are the same and in the same place. Dimensions are the same. I think that this is a very good replacement for the original. AGM technology and 2 more AH than the stocker. $89.95 delivered to my door! They list it as YTX20CH-BS AGM http://www.batterymart.com/SEARCH.html?q=ytx20ch-bs"

I checked, still the same price, sorry I did not note the original poster. Also Motocross is made by Yuasa.

https://www.batterystuff.com/blog/motocross-vs-yuasa-which-is-the-better-motorcycle-battery-.html

Later,
Norm

Click to expand...

+1 on Motocross by Yuasa. I bought the same battery on March of 2019 to replace the failing factory Exide battery. The factory battery lasted 38 months. I always used a battery tender when not riding. This is the first time I have had a battery fail so early... I usually get 6-8 years.

PGlaves said:

I would expect a "standing" battery to read between 12.4 and 12.7 volts an hour after charging or riding. I expect at least 11.5 v while the starter is cranking. When you simply turn on the key with nothing else a drop below 12v is not alarming.

Click to expand...

Can I pick your brain a bit more (or anyone else’s with insight)?

My 2015 RT has 40k miles and the original battery still. A couple of times over the last few months I have hit the starter button, got nothing, hit it again and she fires right up. Since I am riding from SoCal to TN in June for the MOA rally, I figured I should change it out, but while researching replacement battery reccomendations I came across this thread. I tested mine with a cheapie HF multimeter. My results were:
12.94 cold for over 24 hours
14.2 running
8.9 cranking
From your post above, it sounds like the cranking number could indicate a problem, but is that typically a battery related problem? Ignition on does fire up a fuse block, led hyperlites and a radar detector if that is relevant at all.
Thanks

cwroady said:

Can I pick your brain a bit more (or anyone else’s with insight)?

My 2015 RT has 40k miles and the original battery still. A couple of times over the last few months I have hit the starter button, got nothing, hit it again and she fires right up. Since I am riding from SoCal to TN in June for the MOA rally, I figured I should change it out, but while researching replacement battery reccomendations I came across this thread. I tested mine with a cheapie HF multimeter. My results were:
12.94 cold for over 24 hours
14.2 running
8.9 cranking
From your post above, it sounds like the cranking number could indicate a problem, but is that typically a battery related problem? Ignition on does fire up a fuse block, led hyperlites and a radar detector if that is relevant at all.
Thanks

Click to expand...

I would check the battery terminal cable connections. When I have seen as you describe, the first push of the button microscopically "welds" the connection into being strong allowing the second push of the button to run the starter. A bad connection of the starter button can do (somewhat) the same thing. A bit of contact cleaner (or WD-40) on the starter button may eliminate the button as a problem........or, lead you in a direction.
OM

Thanks OM, I will check both items.

cwroady said:

Can I pick your brain a bit more (or anyone else’s with insight)?

My 2015 RT has 40k miles and the original battery still. A couple of times over the last few months I have hit the starter button, got nothing, hit it again and she fires right up. Since I am riding from SoCal to TN in June for the MOA rally, I figured I should change it out, but while researching replacement battery reccomendations I came across this thread. I tested mine with a cheapie HF multimeter. My results were:
12.94 cold for over 24 hours
14.2 running
8.9 cranking
From your post above, it sounds like the cranking number could indicate a problem, but is that typically a battery related problem? Ignition on does fire up a fuse block, led hyperlites and a radar detector if that is relevant at all.
Thanks

Click to expand...

My take on this is as follows:

1. 12.94 volts after resting for 24 hours indicates the battery is still holding a very good charge.
2. 14.2 running indicates the charging system is doing its job nicely.
3. 8.9 volts cranking, particularly if it's simultaneously feeding some extra lights, doesn't sound like the end of the world to me.

All of this makes me think your battery and charging system are probably in pretty good shape.

I'm with Omega Man, the intermittent no-go when trying to start would make me incredibly suspicious of corrosion on the battery terminals/connectors. Double that suspicion if the terminals haven't been inspected and cleaned as necessary for the past four years. They can very easily make the system work/not work/work. A terminal and connector cleaning and application of electrical grease would be my first step.

The very best of luck with it and your upcoming trip!

I can’t speak for others, in my case having a dead battery on a trip is a real pain in the rear. Change out bike and car batteries every 3 years, knock on wood I’ve never had a trip spoiled because of a dead battery just saying!! I do carry on my bike and cars a antigravity emergency start battery just in case

Jim

I case of doubt, have a battery store or auto parts store do a load test on your battery.

patm said:

I case of doubt, have a battery store or auto parts store do a load test on your battery.

Click to expand...

In case of any doubt at all, just replace your four year old battery. In fact I'd recommend replacing it regardless of any testing/cleaning you or the battery store may do. Motorcycle batteries are known to simply die at that age and even earlier. And a good quality, exact fit, battery is easily found for less than $100.

Battery looked perfect, zero corrosion. I sprayed some Detoxit in the switch housing and have several weeks to see if any problem reoccur. Appreciate the advice gents.

Let us know. Completed threads help everyone.
OM

Just replaced the original battery on my 2012 RT. I should say that it was failing last September, but I have other bikes and haven't ridden the RT since then.

My approach is if I'm not riding, the charger is attached.

This is typical battery life for me ... yes, in the desert southwest.

sailorlite said:

In case of any doubt at all, just replace your four year old battery. In fact I'd recommend replacing it regardless of any testing/cleaning you or the battery store may do. Motorcycle batteries are known to simply die at that age and even earlier. And a good quality, exact fit, battery is easily found for less than $100.

Click to expand...

How would you know the battery is the problem? This is kind of an expensive way of trouble shooting IMO.

patm said:

How would you know the battery is the problem? This is kind of an expensive way of trouble shooting IMO.

Click to expand...

If connections are clean and tight and there is a large voltage drop when cranking:

- Batteries do fail every few years.

- Starters usually last 100,000 or more miles before bearing wear causes starter drag. (R1100 early Valeo units with loose magnets excepted.)

Therefore replacing a 4 year old battery is a good investment in almost any event.

Typical AGM batteries usually fail with little notice. Good last start, nothing this try. If you ride mostly where you can get a battery easily then it might pay off to take the risk. If you travel, especially west of the Mississippi on a weekend, then the risk of serious inconvenience is higher.

PGlaves said:

If connections are clean and tight and there is a large voltage drop when cranking:

- Batteries do fail every few years.

- Starters usually last 100,000 or more miles before bearing wear causes starter drag. (R1100 early Valeo units with loose magnets excepted.)

Therefore replacing a 4 year old battery is a good investment in almost any event.

Typical AGM batteries usually fail with little notice. Good last start, nothing this try. If you ride mostly where you can get a battery easily then it might pay off to take the risk. If you travel, especially west of the Mississippi on a weekend, then the risk of serious inconvenience is higher.

Click to expand...

Still though, most load tests are cheap, or even free if you do end up needing a battery. Why not have it tested and know whether or not that's the actual problem?

alegerlotz said:

Still though, most load tests are cheap, or even free if you do end up needing a battery. Why not have it tested and know whether or not that's the actual problem?

Click to expand...

One reason is that at many locations load testers designed for big car and truck batteries are unreliable for small motorcycle batteries. And it is getting worse.

My 1986 K75 came with a 30 ah battery. You could also get the "little" 19 ah battery.
My 1997 F650 came with that 19 ah battery.
But Voni's F800S came with a14 ah battery.
And our G310GSs came with a 9 ah battery.

A load tester designed for a 200 ah or larger battery is not likely to be reliable on these itty bitty batteries. And additionally, unless the person using the tester knows exactly what they are doing on little batteries the load exerted on the battery may well snap an intercell connector as if it were a fuse.

Now, if you happen to have a good battery store in your town or city it may well be worth your while to remove your battery and take it to be tested where if it breaks or is bad you can just buy a replacement. But if you don't have such a store nearby you either have to reinstall the feeble battery or you are out of commission until you mail order a battery or take a trip to get one.

Some folks are 40 blocks from Batteries Plus. I am 250 miles from a decent battery store likely to carry the battery I need - the one that actually fits instead of almost fits.

4 years and 40k miles doesn’t leave me a lot of room to complain with needing a replacement, and I know I will catch endless crap from my buddies (who both have changed theirs out with less time on them) if it goes South on our 2 week trip in June so ... i’m gonna replace it.

My local Batteries Plus carries the Oddysey PC680 that I have used in my Airheads, but the dimensions look to big. Is there any consensus on what to run in the Wethead RT’s or am I bordering on turning this into an oil thread?

https://www.batteriesplus.com/battery/motorcycle/bmw/r1200rt/1200cc/2015/cyl10001 will take you to a Duracell @ BatteriesPlus that should fit your RTW. About 1/2 the price of the BMW-branded OEM. Check it out. 220 CCH-rated. Fully sealed.

cwroady said:

4 years and 40k miles doesn’t leave me a lot of room to complain with needing a replacement, and I know I will catch endless crap from my buddies (who both have changed theirs out with less time on them) if it goes South on our 2 week trip in June so ... i’m gonna replace it.

My local Batteries Plus carries the Oddysey PC680 that I have used in my Airheads, but the dimensions look to big. Is there any consensus on what to run in the Wethead RT’s or am I bordering on turning this into an oil thread?

Click to expand...

No Odyssey batteries fit the Wethead RT, too bad I used the PC630 in my oilhead too with outstanding service.

Jay