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2008 1200RT Pivot Bearing Replacement
- Thread starter chrisinsc
- Start date
The pivot bearing issue was on the pre EVO( drive with hole). The current drive doesn’t typically wear out the bearings like the prior models did. If there is no play when drive is lowered I would look elsewhere.
The bearings on drive pivot point stay the same tension as opposed to the adjustable set up on pre EVO
The bearings on drive pivot point stay the same tension as opposed to the adjustable set up on pre EVO
Thanks. I will check when I drop the drive but with the rear brake on it has a little play at 12 and 6 and NO play at 3 and 6.
Do you know what the proper torque is for the 24mm nut and the torx bolt on the inside of the swing arm is? The whole thing spins when I put a wrench on the 24mm nut on the outside of the swing arm.
Says GS, lot’s of common values to other first gen Hexhead models
https://motorcycleinfo.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/R1200GS-Torque-Values.pdf
https://motorcycleinfo.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/R1200GS-Torque-Values.pdf
Many thanks! I guess on the RT its a torx T55
"Rear wheel drive to swinging arm, M12 x 1.5100 Nm (74 ft-lbs)" looks like the one.
Unless you are removing the drive totally, no need to remove that pivot pin. The torque arm releases the drive to tilt down.
From the DIY collection
https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?35072-HEXHEAD-Tech-R1200XX-Rear-Drive-Oil-Change-2008-DIY
When I replaced my 07 final drive, that bolt was stubborn as all get out, even with heat, lubricating fluid, and an impact wrench.
I'd suggest having a strong friend with long breaker bars on both sides, a good T55 bit, and a way to strap down the bike so your wrenching doesn't cause an unintended pinning.
I replaced the bolt, nut, plastic piece, and tiny grease seals.
I haven't heard many bearings going bad, but the large crown bearing could induce play at the brake if the drive isn't lowered.
Hopefully you read through all of this?
https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?96845-A-Guide-to-the-Hexhead-Camhead-Final-Drive-and-Shaft-Drive
I'd suggest having a strong friend with long breaker bars on both sides, a good T55 bit, and a way to strap down the bike so your wrenching doesn't cause an unintended pinning.
I replaced the bolt, nut, plastic piece, and tiny grease seals.
I haven't heard many bearings going bad, but the large crown bearing could induce play at the brake if the drive isn't lowered.
Hopefully you read through all of this?
https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?96845-A-Guide-to-the-Hexhead-Camhead-Final-Drive-and-Shaft-Drive
I wanted to ensue it was torqued to spec initially. It was not. It's coming apart now as I am replacing those bearings. I will also relube the driveshaft interfaces. Hope the driveshaft is ok as well as the other pivot bearings. Something isn't quite right as there is a slight vibration under load when applying power. I am hoping it's just dry splines but will not be surprised if a U joint is bad. Just part of the dice roll when buying one of these bikes used I guess.
Well low and behold, I am a bit chagrined now that I have tackled the frozen pivot bearing bolt and right side pin. Should have sprayed something to help down the right side pin hole. Holy cow I thought the thing was going to be wrecked by the time I finally got it off enough to move without a breaker bar. Whoever put the replacement final drive on this bike did not use any anti seize or moly lube anywhere. Both pins are disimilar metals to the aluminum hole in the end of the paralever and everything was locked almost solid. Both bearings look ok as does the driveshaft but the splines on the FD input shaft were dry. The u joint back there feels fine. I will clean up everything and relube and put it back together tomorrow. Maybe I get lucky and the pivot bearings are ok and the relubed driveshaft interface makes the driveline vibration go away.
Hey hen, i was a dork about the torque. The whole thing spins and it was so frozen that torquing to spec was impossible. Tomorrow it will be possible.
So I did read that thread btw and I have the newest final drive. The side with the sealed bearing (riders right) makes sense in how the parts stack up and get captured against the alum casting(with a nice sealed washer) of the paralever arm when the whole assembly is tightened up.
The other side, however, with the needle bearing looks to me like the face of the pin just rides like a bushing on the needle bearing cage which does not move. It also looks like the face on the other end of the pin mates right against the paralever casting and on my bike it has beaten a shallow groove into the casting which I think is where the play I felt came from.
So, I see how everything stacks now that I got it back together. The whole assembly indexes on the right side with the sealed bearing. The pin on the left side floats laterally in the bearing and the protective face of the pin is proud of the bearing cage.
One question is whether there is supposed to be an "o-ring" on the outside of the bearing cage as there is no "o-ring" there now and water can seep past the pin into the assembly.
So the play in the wheel at 12 and 6 is that needle bearing. Just confirmed with someone else rocking the wheel. Very slight but there. Oh well that mystery is solved.
One question is whether there is supposed to be an "o-ring" on the outside of the bearing cage as there is no "o-ring" there now and water can seep past the pin into the assembly.
So the play in the wheel at 12 and 6 is that needle bearing. Just confirmed with someone else rocking the wheel. Very slight but there. Oh well that mystery is solved.
Last edited:
At this point the thread title is not really descriptive of the content but best in one thread.
Still going end to end on the new to me 39k mile 08 (08/07 mfg date) 1200RT.
New rear pads and rear brake circuit flush with ATE super racing dot4 fluid. Rotor is almost new. One set of pads since new. I used semi metallic galfer pads as that's what cycle gear had and I like pads that don't wear down the rotors so much. The front pads are good, I will flush that fluid tomorrow.
Serviced the FD and splines and completely rebuilt the FD pivot bearing assembly. Needs a new left side bearing.
Replaced the gearbox oil with Spectro 75/140.
Took apart the brake pedal assembly, cleaned and relubed it with thick blue marine grade bearing grease. Same with the gear shift side. The ball and socket gaskets on the gear shift linkage are gone so I need to order those and hit that assembly again.
Checked rocker shaft end play and adjusted the valves and replaced the plugs. Original owner had a new set of the Bosch plugs for the Moto so in they went. Rocker shaft end play between .229mm and .254mm so all good there. Some valves were loose so did those adjustments. Most of the capture nuts were not very tight. One spark plug was loose. Both upper coil packs are mutilated from others trying to grab them with pliers. I got a big screw driver and a leather garden glove and pried them up not problem. Lubed the outer and inner parts with dialectic grease for next time. One connector was shattered and the locking bits gone so I used high temp electrical tape and wrapped it. Maybe new coil packs. Maybe NGk plugs too.
There was no free play in the right throttle cable so loosened both sides the same and then did a sync with my atf in clear tubing 4 Foot tall 10 dollar balancing rig. I am interested in the balancer unit mentioned in the tech article. it's as good as I could get it but I will do it again soon and mess with the grip adjusters and see if finer adjustments are possible there.
Left to go now is the front brake fluid flush, clutch circuit flush. Clutch cable adjustment. Engine oil service. Front paralever pivot service and adjustment. Forward u joint inspection. Air filter inspection/renewal. Likely new rear shock.
All in all the bike is easier to work on with many things improved over the r11s. The gear shift assembly is not part of the left kick plate. The gear box oil drains off the bottom of the gearbox case. The plastic is far faster and easier to get off and on. The rear brake fluid reservoir and battery are easier to access. The fuel tank bits are far easier to get to. Allowong the FD to pivot down to easily service the sliding spline interface was good thinking, and making the removal of the muffler so easy instead of trying to work around it the same good thinking.
On my wish list is a bushing replacement for the left side FD pivot bearing, a more adjustable seat, less grabby brakes at super slow speeds though I may be able to solve this with just using the rear brake.
Great bike! Did two up with my SO and the extra power and 6th gear on the freeway at 80mph is wonderful. My 1100 is easier to manuever at slow speeds and get feet on the ground. I am sure I will get the 1200 wired with some practice.
Still going end to end on the new to me 39k mile 08 (08/07 mfg date) 1200RT.
New rear pads and rear brake circuit flush with ATE super racing dot4 fluid. Rotor is almost new. One set of pads since new. I used semi metallic galfer pads as that's what cycle gear had and I like pads that don't wear down the rotors so much. The front pads are good, I will flush that fluid tomorrow.
Serviced the FD and splines and completely rebuilt the FD pivot bearing assembly. Needs a new left side bearing.
Replaced the gearbox oil with Spectro 75/140.
Took apart the brake pedal assembly, cleaned and relubed it with thick blue marine grade bearing grease. Same with the gear shift side. The ball and socket gaskets on the gear shift linkage are gone so I need to order those and hit that assembly again.
Checked rocker shaft end play and adjusted the valves and replaced the plugs. Original owner had a new set of the Bosch plugs for the Moto so in they went. Rocker shaft end play between .229mm and .254mm so all good there. Some valves were loose so did those adjustments. Most of the capture nuts were not very tight. One spark plug was loose. Both upper coil packs are mutilated from others trying to grab them with pliers. I got a big screw driver and a leather garden glove and pried them up not problem. Lubed the outer and inner parts with dialectic grease for next time. One connector was shattered and the locking bits gone so I used high temp electrical tape and wrapped it. Maybe new coil packs. Maybe NGk plugs too.
There was no free play in the right throttle cable so loosened both sides the same and then did a sync with my atf in clear tubing 4 Foot tall 10 dollar balancing rig. I am interested in the balancer unit mentioned in the tech article. it's as good as I could get it but I will do it again soon and mess with the grip adjusters and see if finer adjustments are possible there.
Left to go now is the front brake fluid flush, clutch circuit flush. Clutch cable adjustment. Engine oil service. Front paralever pivot service and adjustment. Forward u joint inspection. Air filter inspection/renewal. Likely new rear shock.
All in all the bike is easier to work on with many things improved over the r11s. The gear shift assembly is not part of the left kick plate. The gear box oil drains off the bottom of the gearbox case. The plastic is far faster and easier to get off and on. The rear brake fluid reservoir and battery are easier to access. The fuel tank bits are far easier to get to. Allowong the FD to pivot down to easily service the sliding spline interface was good thinking, and making the removal of the muffler so easy instead of trying to work around it the same good thinking.
On my wish list is a bushing replacement for the left side FD pivot bearing, a more adjustable seat, less grabby brakes at super slow speeds though I may be able to solve this with just using the rear brake.
Great bike! Did two up with my SO and the extra power and 6th gear on the freeway at 80mph is wonderful. My 1100 is easier to manuever at slow speeds and get feet on the ground. I am sure I will get the 1200 wired with some practice.
I think I'm reading your question correctly?
On the side closest to the wheel, there's a felt-like gasket ring, and a very thin o-ring.
https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51560&rnd=09082020
The coil puller (sold at various online retailers) will make removing the coil easy and won't damage it. I always unhook the coil, as that seems to reduce the risk of that flimsy electrical connector from breaking.
Hydraulic clutch - so no cable adjustment
If you don't have the mineral clutch oil yet, head to a larger bike shop. I think I paid $12 for a whole quart of Magura "Royal Blood" - which is not only the correct stuff, but also enough to do at least 5 flushes.
That site rocks! Thanks!
The diagram shows an o ring which I need to source along with the roller bearing.
The coil puller (sold at various online retailers) will make removing the coil easy and won't damage it. I always unhook the coil, as that seems to reduce the risk of that flimsy electrical connector from breaking.
Hydraulic clutch - so no cable adjustment
If you don't have the mineral clutch oil yet, head to a larger bike shop. I think I paid $12 for a whole quart of Magura "Royal Blood" - which is not only the correct stuff, but also enough to do at least 5 flushes.
Bike came with almost a full container of the Magura product, so lucky there. Will add the coil puller to the list. Thanks again for the help.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BsS8y6YlbkM
This is a nice vid with torque values and some interesting maintenance elements as the tech breaks down the rear suspension to replace the front boot.
Interesting that he pulls the sealed bearing seals out just blops some EP2 in them and puts the seals back in. He is also generous with EP2 upon reassembly of all moving parts. Lastly he definitely follows the book and uses blue locktite.
I replaced the roller bearing on the left side of the final drive. Also put in the missing spongy gasket. It reduced the play in that bearing assembly but did not completely eliminate it. Replacing the pin next as it looked scuffed. Likely its better to replace both if you have a loose bearing there.
This is a nice vid with torque values and some interesting maintenance elements as the tech breaks down the rear suspension to replace the front boot.
Interesting that he pulls the sealed bearing seals out just blops some EP2 in them and puts the seals back in. He is also generous with EP2 upon reassembly of all moving parts. Lastly he definitely follows the book and uses blue locktite.
I replaced the roller bearing on the left side of the final drive. Also put in the missing spongy gasket. It reduced the play in that bearing assembly but did not completely eliminate it. Replacing the pin next as it looked scuffed. Likely its better to replace both if you have a loose bearing there.
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