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ABSi problem on R1150GS 2004 model

It looks like your iABS modulator is finished. Been there, done that.

...waiting for a reply from beemershop on the analysis they may have for this.

Assuming you are correct, and the price tag for a new modulator beyond my modest retirement budget, what is your thought about an ABSectomy? I have read diverse opinions on it, and invite any thoughts on such a solution.

Thanks for the reply... frustrating as it is. 20K miles and a major component craps out! :banghead
 
Fault codes

Jurgen... and others. Sorry for the dead silence here - issue is still unresolved. I borrowed a GS911 tester and it tells me "Faultcode fouind 17438: Pressure in rear wheel circuit too high" and clearing the fault and restarting the bike gives the same result time after time.

Ted Porter at beemer shop did not want to tackle this via email or phone. I have another independent mechanic to contact, but otherwise it is SOL over here in little Vieques, Puerto Rico I fear.

Any words of wisdom out there? or otherwise encouragement or even discouragement?:violin
 
ABS modulator about to be replaced with used one

ABS modulator replacement 2004 BMW R1150GS
To finalize this thread I have been through all the possible problems that have plagued this bike for 3 months now - 20,000 miles and the >rear brake circuit< has failed. A GS911 fault code readout says the pressure is too high in the rear wheel circuit. I found a used modulator for $600 with is about $1800 less than the best price for a new one. I gulped hard and asked them to ship it today.

Can anybody help me with installation tips? The lines look straightforwards enough (maybe I am too optimistic there) and of course all will need to be bled after changing the unit out. The great mystery portion of this looks to be the relay wiring. All the connections appear to be on the underside of the ABS modulator.

Any and all advice welcome. Meantime for anyone who owns a GS - if that ABS idiot light starts blinking rapidly along with the warning light, just hope that somebody puts you in their will cause the pain is going to be great!
 
Its a simple and straight forward job to replace the modulator. Having swapped mine about 4 times, I can now do it in 1/2 hour. When mine failed, I was unable to obtain a working used unit. I had 2 shipped to me, but both were defective, and both had different symtoms, but ultimately failed the post test and had flashing ABS failure lights. I ultimately had to purchase a new unit from BMW, which at the time cost $2400 US. Hopefully you will have better luck then I did! The hardest and most time consuming part of the replacement procedure is bleeding the unit, and since you have already done that on the existing unit, you will have no problems. It is a bit messy when you remove all the brake lines from the old unit, but there is not much you can do about that. Good luck!
 
Its a simple and straight forward job to replace the modulator. Having swapped mine about 4 times, I can now do it in 1/2 hour. When mine failed, I was unable to obtain a working used unit. I had 2 shipped to me, but both were defective, and both had different symtoms, but ultimately failed the post test and had flashing ABS failure lights. I ultimately had to purchase a new unit from BMW, which at the time cost $2400 US. Hopefully you will have better luck then I did! The hardest and most time consuming part of the replacement procedure is bleeding the unit, and since you have already done that on the existing unit, you will have no problems. It is a bit messy when you remove all the brake lines from the old unit, but there is not much you can do about that. Good luck!

Thanks, Bob - exactly what I was hoping to hear. The salvage yard sending me the replacement unit assures me 'it is a working unit' but I suspect that is their standard reply to customers. They offer a 30 day return guarantee and I got that from the main man.

I plan today to blow out the brake lines on the rear wheel circuit using compressed air in a last ditch attempt to clear any blockage and see if that corrects the problem. If not then it is ditch the ugly black box and put in the new one. :cry
 
Doug,
If the "new" used unit is fully functional you may not want to pursue this, but if it is not you might consider contacting the poster on ADVRIDER.com named Steptoe. He seems to be a very knowledgeable independent BMW mechanic who resides in England and who has been able to fix some of these units. He hasn't divulged the process as he makes a living at fixing BMWs. You could get a quote from him on what he might charge to look at your unit and, if repairable, fix it.

Dave
 
Doug,
If the "new" used unit is fully functional you may not want to pursue this, but if it is not you might consider contacting the poster on ADVRIDER.com named Steptoe. He seems to be a very knowledgeable independent BMW mechanic who resides in England and who has been able to fix some of these units. He hasn't divulged the process as he makes a living at fixing BMWs. You could get a quote from him on what he might charge to look at your unit and, if repairable, fix it.

Dave

Thanks, Dave - excellent suggestion. The used units seem to be very scarce in the US at least. I had a response from a European/Russian parts source but nothing came of it. You gotta love the internet. I will post the results from the compressed air and then the swapout if it happens. Appreciate any and all remedies that might surface here. :heart
 
Fail!

Took a compressed air line and blew out all the rear brake lines - modulator to caliper and meter/control circuits to rear reservoir. Refilled everything and bled thoroughly - same problem remains. The servo does not fire up when the rear brake pedal is pressed. The modulator does not interact with the rear caliper at all (absent the servo I suppose it won't). Anyhow it was either fix it this way or spend $600 for a used modulator. Next step is to swap that out and see what develops from there. A lot of learning curve to one of these bikes:doh
 
Doug,
While looking for Steptoe's original post on ADVRIDER stating he could fix some of the ABS units I found this recent thread where he did reveal how it can be done. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=653191&highlight=fixed See post #11.
If this doesn't work you may want to PM him and see if he thinks your unit is fixable.
Another option is to call these guys http://www.modulemaster.com/en/faq/index.php. Although they rebuild BMW car ABS modules they may not want to do a motorcycle; however, my guess is if you get the right person he/she may be able to tell you what the likely issue is with your unit and how it can be fixed. What blows me away is they give a better warranty on their rebuilds than BMW gives on the OEM unit.

Dave
 
Woo Hoo!

Did not work on mine - the adapter body has no filter on the end that is inside the modulator. I pulled 1 of the 2 - could not get the corner one all the way out with the wrenches I have - and found the adapter is much shorter than he shows with a needle valve immediately below the adapter. Nice try but no cigar. I plan to give Steptoe a PM anyhow and continue to follow that thread re: ABS modulator failure, for sure it is relevant to my problem. Thanks, Dave.
 
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Doug,
While looking for Steptoe's original post on ADVRIDER stating he could fix some of the ABS units I found this recent thread where he did reveal how it can be done. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=653191&highlight=fixed See post #11.
If this doesn't work you may want to PM him and see if he thinks your unit is fixable.
Another option is to call these guys http://www.modulemaster.com/en/faq/index.php. Although they rebuild BMW car ABS modules they may not want to do a motorcycle; however, my guess is if you get the right person he/she may be able to tell you what the likely issue is with your unit and how it can be fixed. What blows me away is they give a better warranty on their rebuilds than BMW gives on the OEM unit.

Dave

Problem solved - with some coaching from Steptoe in the UK, I did a bypass of the ABS modulator for the rear wheel only. As the front brake works fine with the ABS I left it alone and pinched off the 2 exit lines that go to the rear brake pedal and the rear brake caliper. Steptoe cleverly suggested moving the flex line connector directly to the rear brake master cylinder. Works like a champ! I have to be a bit careful as the rear brake can throw the bike into a fishtail if pressed too hard but it is something I will learn to pay attention to. Thanks to everybody for the encouragement and info and especially to Dave for suggesting the wizard in the UK as a resource. :D
 
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