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transmission drain plug on my 2000 R1100S

mntngrown

New member
For some reason the drain plug on the bottom of my transmission has a really large hex head that Napa auto, ace hardware and the mechanic at the gas station in my little town did not have a big enough hex. My guess is around 18 or 20 mm. Is this some weird retrofit by a prior owner or have other owners encountered this? If this is stock, does anyone know the hex head size to order?
 
I see

The thread that pop up at the bottom show an 02 owner using a 2" bolt head with nuts crammed on the threads to do the job. Smart move
 
Not sure what you’re looking at but the factory trans drain plug for your bike should look like this.

3ED8C86B-D186-4DD7-BA28-F9EDF5C6074B.jpeg

It takes an 8mm hex head wrench. If it’s different it may have been altered. A 19mm is a commonly used BMW wrench size so you may try that. Good luck with getting familiar with your new bike.
 
6322, I think you're looking at the fill plug. The drain plug is Number 13 on that same page.

The drain plug key size is LARGE - 14mm. I bought a allen key wrench from Snap-On and cut it down so it would fit above the exhaust header.
 
Thanks!

6322, I think you're looking at the fill plug. The drain plug is Number 13 on that same page.

The drain plug key size is LARGE - 14mm. I bought a allen key wrench from Snap-On and cut it down so it would fit above the exhaust header.

That sounds like the ticket. Thanks
 
spot on

One last hint...make sure you can get the fill plug out before you drain the transmission. Also, there is no sealing/crush washer on the drain plug so don't look for one. :thumb

I was just gonna ask you about the missing crush washer;)
I also had a stuck fill plug but applied heat with my soldering iron for awhile and was able to break it open. Found "stubby" hex sockets at O'reillys online but being impatient I jury rigged the drain removal. A fair amount of metal shavings on the magnetic drain plug.
 
A 14mm hex key cut down to approx. 30mm works fine with a box end wrench to loosen/tighten. I also fashioned a trough/funnel out of aluminum foil to keep the transmission's contents from flowing all over the place as it comes out pretty quickly.

Frank
 
Good to know

I will see if the stubby socket and drive I ordered works before cutting down a key. I might hurt myself as I have no vise installed here.
Now what oil for the transmission? I have seen some suggest 75-140 for tranny only to smooth out the clunk.
 
Heavy Hypoid Dino here. Tried some blended Synthetic once and had to replace (less than 5 miles) it right away as the clunk was incredibly bad. I replace it now ever-other engine oil change.
 
Now what oil for the transmission? I have seen some suggest 75-140 for tranny only to smooth out the clunk.

I've run both 80W-90 and 75W-140 in mine, felt no difference and had no issues. For my money I'd stick with 80W-90 GL5. By the way, if you decide to go the synthetic route, 75W-140 is NOT fine in the final drive.

PS Buy a vice. They are SO handy. :thumb
 
This is how I remove the drain/magnetic plug on the 1100S.
There is no room to get a conventional hex key in there
 

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way to innovate.

still waiting to get my e-mail from mega retailer that my stubby hex sockets are ready to pick up and to post if the 14mm with 3/8 drive will fit in the limited space but I must report that the big old drain under the transmission can be loosened in more than one way, (to skin a cat), and does not necessitate tool manufacture with vice and hacksaw or Sawzall or other extreme measures. My smallest pipe wrench did just fine. No damage. YMMV
 
My stubby 14mm 3/8 drive Snap-on bit was too long when using and breaker bar or ratchet. It would go into the recess, but couldn't put anything on it to turn that wouldn't mar it up.

Frank
 
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