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Thread: R1100 Brake Rotor Bobbins Replacement

  1. #1
    Registered User ALIENHITCHHIKER's Avatar
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    R1100 Brake Rotor Bobbins Replacement

    The bobbins (aka 'roll pins') securing the brake rotors to their carriers on my 2000 R1100RT were shot - as the low speed clankety-clank noise coming from the front wheel kept reminding me.

    Checking with the parts dept at my local BMW dealership I was a bit surprised to discover that BMW no longer sources replacement bobbins for my 21 year old bike. The fellow behind the parts counter wasn't even able to suggest a vendor that might have them available. So I did what any self respecting owner of an aging motorcycle that has seemingly been abandoned by its manufacturer would do - I scoured the internet.

    Many thanks to 'frankenduck' who started a thread on motobrick.com way back in 2011 -- and a special thanks to 'Johhny' who mentioned that he purchased replacement bobbins from the London based firm Motobins. http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=1132.0

    I checked out Motobins' website and sure enough they still have 'em. So ---I'm passing this tidbit along to any other oilers trying to keep their bike on the road (Please don't tell me I'm the only doofus who didn't already know about Motobins). All the old - and obviously worn - bobbins were held in place with E-clips which popped off nicely with a little encouragement. The shiny new bits are also secured with E-clips. Took about two weeks for the parts to arrive from London via the Royal Post. I think they cost me about $80, all told.
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    Steve
    Current Hottie: '00 R1100RT
    Old Flames: '85 K100RT, '80 Yamaha XS850, '67 Triumph Bonnie, '66 Honda 90 Scrambler

  2. #2
    Steve,

    Thanks for posting this. I’ve been meaning to replace the bobbins on my 2000 R11100 RS, which have been rattling for the past 20K miles.

    I see that you removed the brake disc for this job. I was planning to do the replacement, with the front wheel in place. Any reason I should re consider this method?
    2000 R1100 RS
    2009 Jaguar XK

  3. #3
    Registered User m_stock10506's Avatar
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    https://boxer-upgrades.webs.com/apps/webstore/

    Cata Dan in Romania makes a set of replacement bobbins. Iíve used them for my 1100RT, and for a friend too. Highly recommend.

    As far as rotor removal, you can angle your tools to release the clips and then reinstall. If you do the job at the same time you replace a front tire, removing the rotor from the wheel is really trivial-use heat on the screws before you try to loosen them. The whole job is then really easy since you can just flip the rotor over and lay it on a pad while you replace the bobbins.
    Michael Stock, Trinity, NC
    R1100RT, R100, R60/6

  4. #4
    Left Coast Rider
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    Quote Originally Posted by walshj1024 View Post
    I was planning to do the replacement, with the front wheel in place. Any reason I should re consider this method?
    Might be difficult getting the disc past the wheel axle.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by BC1100S View Post
    Might be difficult getting the disc past the wheel axle.
    Is it absolutely necessary to remove the disc?

    I plan to remove one bobbin at a time, as I replace them.
    2000 R1100 RS
    2009 Jaguar XK

  6. #6
    Registered User ALIENHITCHHIKER's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by walshj1024 View Post
    . I see that you removed the brake disc for this job. I was planning to do the replacement, with the front wheel in place. Any reason I should re consider this method?
    I definitely recommend removing the wheel from the bike, and then removing the rotor carriers - which is what I did. Your knuckles will thank you. And what the heck - it's a great chance to clean up the nooks and crannies on that front wheel, check the bearings, etc.

    As others have noted, the rotor carriers are not difficult to remove. Mine used torx head bolts. Surprisingly, they are only snugged down to 21Nms with the cast aluminum rims, so there was no drama in removing them.
    Steve
    Current Hottie: '00 R1100RT
    Old Flames: '85 K100RT, '80 Yamaha XS850, '67 Triumph Bonnie, '66 Honda 90 Scrambler

  7. #7
    So, you mark the Rotors/discs, directional, as well as which side, correct?

    Quote Originally Posted by ALIENHITCHHIKER View Post
    I definitely recommend removing the wheel from the bike, and then removing the rotor carriers - which is what I did. Your knuckles will thank you. And what the heck - it's a great chance to clean up the nooks and crannies on that front wheel, check the bearings, etc.

    As others have noted, the rotor carriers are not difficult to remove. Mine used torx head bolts. Surprisingly, they are only snugged down to 21Nms with the cast aluminum rims, so there was no drama in removing them.
    2000 R1100 RS
    2009 Jaguar XK

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by walshj1024 View Post
    So, you mark the Rotors/discs, directional, as well as which side, correct?
    Note that the clips are on the side of the rotor toward the wheel. Then take the rotors off the wheel one at a time. Do the bobbins, reinstall the rotor to the wheel. Repeat for the other rotor.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  9. #9
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    I put in stainless replacements from Motorworks Uk on my 1100 and they are too tight I think and don't allow the rotors to float enough. I took the wheel off and the rotors. Total pita. If stock alum ones were around I would put them on instead. The ones I took off were worn through in some cases.
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  10. #10
    Registered User jrogers's Avatar
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    Looks like they really want to get you to replace the Rotor as a fix.
    02 R1150R ABS, 04 R1150R, 05 R1100S BCR, 16 S1000XR

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