F-Twins Tech – F650/700/800 - Rear Wheel Removal and Install

The articles, posts and comments in this tech section are posted by individual members and reflect their personal thoughts and experiences with repairing, maintaining, and generally working on motorcycles. This information may require specific knowledge and skills, may or may not be correct or current to model.

The authors of information found here and the BMW MOA take no responsibility for ensuring the accuracy of any information (including procedures, techniques, parts numbers, torque values, tool usage, etc.), or further for any damage of any kind or injuries incurred or caused by anyone following the instructions or information found here.

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PLEASE PRINT AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE BEGINNING!

Final note: The motorcycle's two wheels are the only thing keeping you upright. When in doubt, take your motorcycle to a reputable dealer.

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Removing the rear wheel on your F-Twin F650/700/800 with chain drive

Time for new rubber on your F-Twin? Did you ride past a construction site and now your rear tire resembles Swiss Cheese? Let's get that wheel off!

Note 1: The specific bike shown is a 2013 F800GS
Note 2: The tools and materials used are by personal choice and are not due to any affiliation with any brand

Materials needed:
- Staburags NBU 30 PTM or equivalent grease

Tools Required:
- 24 mm socket
- T25 Torx (star) bit
- Ratchet that fits the above
- Breaker bar (optional, but may be needed as the axle nut is quite tight)
- 13 mm open ended wrench
- Torque wrench
- Measuring device

To create some space in the rear caliper, firmly push the brake caliper against the disc to force the caliper piston in.

Then place the bike up on the center stand or an appropriate stand to allow the rear wheel to be above the floor. Please make sure that the bike will not fall over! I like to run a strap from the center stand through the front wheel to prevent the center stand from folding up.

Remove the speed/ABS sensor from it's housing on the rear wheel using your T25 star (Torx) bit as indicated by the green arrow. Tie the speed sensor and wire up and out of the way.


Note: this bike has an aftermarket bracket that covers the original speed/ABS sensor (10 mm bolt).

So I don't have to fiddle with setting the proper chain tension when the wheel is reinstalled, I mark the location of the chain adjusters.

This post (#5) and the next post (#6) show the "by the book" way of getting the chain off the sprocket. The last time I changed tires, I was able to remove the axle nut, and then remove the chain slack adjuster stop (the L-shaped piece behind the axle nut). This allowed me enough room to push the axle forward, without changing my chain slack settings. You may or may not have enough chain slack to do this, but it may save you a minute or two during reassembly.

"By the book" option:
Using your 13 mm open-ended wrench, loosen the lock nut on the chain adjusters. Then, loosen both the throttle side and the clutch side chain adjusters so that you create excess chain slack.

Using your 24mm socket and ratchet/breaker bar, loosen and remove the axle nut.

We will remove the chain next. Gently push the rear wheel forward to create slack in the chain, then disengage the chain from the sprocket.

Now that we have the chain out of the way, we can support the rear wheel and pull out the axle.

The rear wheel is now free! Now would be a good time to check the wheel bearings for any notches or grinding. Also take this time to clean up the markings around the chain slack adjusters, since we may need to use them during installation.

Installing the rear wheel


Double check that the rear brake carrier is still seated on the guide of the swing arm (indicated by the green arrow).

The rear wheel has two axle spacers that go into the rear wheel to provide proper clearance for the bearings. Take a moment and clean each of these spaces up, as well as the rubber seals that they go into on each side of the rear wheel. If the spacers have deep grooves worn in them, it's time for replacement spacers and rubber seals.

Using Staburags NBU 30 PTM or equivalent grease, grease each of the spacers and rubber seals. Also grease the axle, but not the axle threads.

We can now install the rear wheel into the swing arm.

It may take a little bit of time to line everything up, so don't get frustrated as it's a tight fit. Watch to make sure that the axle spacers stay in place as you fit the rear wheel and that the brake disc goes in between the brake pads. Enlisting a friend may be helpful too.

Once the axle is in through the wheel, install the chain adjustment piece, the washer, and the nut so that is is hand tight.

Lay the chain on the top of the sprocket and move the wheel backwards to engage the chain on the sprocket.

If you moved the chain slack adjusters, move the adjusters back to the appropriate position that was marked earlier.

Check the chain for proper tension. This is covered in another forum post titled "F-Twins Tech - F650/700/800 - Setting Proper Chain Tension."

Torque settings for the lock nut for the chain slack adjusters is 19 Newton Meters (14 Foot Pounds or 168 Inch Pounds). This isn't easy to torque properly since you would need a crowfoot wrench to set it correctly. Good and tight is probably fine, but you should check it periodically.

Once you have the proper chain slack, use your 24mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the axle nut to 100 Newton Meters (73.8 Foot Pounds or 894 Inch Pounds).

Install the speed/ABS sensor back into the housing on the rear wheel, using your T25 star (Torx) bit - torque is 8 Newton meters (70.81 inch pounds or 5.9 foot pounds). Route the wire up as it was before.


Take a moment to pump the rear brake pedal several times in short strokes, this will seat the pads against the rear disc. If you had the tire replaced, maybe you'd like to check the air pressure in the tire so it's at the desired level.

Finally, double check all your work and then ride off into the sunset!