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Bought my first BMW! A 1996 R1100R!

jedz

New member
Greetings!
So I've been a MOA member for a couple years now but never owned a BMW, well until now!
I'm picking up a 1996 BMW R1100R, well I'm actually getting it shipped through haul bikes. I should see it land here in Vermont by May 11th. Super stoked!
So this bike is plagued with the odd short out when turned fully locked. I know there is a recall for this bike but I reached out to Frank's BMW in Vermont (only dealer in the state) and they said the recall work was done in 1999 at 100 miles... So of course they told me the would gladly fix and maintain my BMW however the big reason to get an old Oil head is to learn how to do all the work myself on an R bike. I have heard from other sources that Frank's isn't the best and was told to go to MAX BMW in NY if I have any issues... I'll plan to reach out there as well.
Anyway I really wanted a R bike to get my hands dirty. My good friend recommended that I get a R1100 as they tend to be pretty much bullet proof. The bike I'm getting has 68K miles and the clutch and rear main seal was just replaced a few years back. My R1100R is a bit of a patina queen and is going t be a great blank slate for a simple strip and setup for mountain gap running right behind my house in the Green Mountains of Vermont... Added bonus, it's Vermont Green :).
Super stoked to officially get my first ever BMW, I've owned about 65 other bike in my time almost all being Japanese. I've wanted a R bike for along time but they are basically overly expensive to get into in Vermont. (The same bike in Burlington was listed for $5500) I found this one for sub $2K in MD, it's actually my buddies bike and he's moved on and I'm taking it off my hands. Even after shipping it's half than some of the bikes available locally to me.
Some pictures:
173942284_10214795653083805_5553670633440065543_n.jpg

174555732_10214795652643794_7630324316005451974_n.jpg


Looking forward to learning more!

Best,
-Jedz
 
Congrats on the new ride!
In the early oilheads, a common issue was that the factory tied down the various harness sections too tightly.
This can cause the wires at the backside of the ignition switch to get pulled - look there, jiggle them (gently) while idling in the garage.
The tie-wraps under the forward area of the gas tank, holding the harnesses to the frame, are a likely culprit.
 
As Pauls1150 noted, the wiring that travels in front of the headstock, get twisted repeatedly, and can break. That is what I experienced with my 2000 R1100 RS at about 60,000 miles. Mine would cause the bike to occasionally shut off, as the wires disengaged. Some folks do a solder repair, but I opted to replace that section of the wiring harness, which was available from BMW at the time. Due to the fairing/ instrument section, it was a fairly time consuming job. On your bike, should be a lot easier. There are you tube videos that help as well.

Nice looking oil head, love the green.
 
While you're learning your way around your bike's mechanicals you may want to check the wiring for the HES as there's a good chance it has deteriorated to the point where it will cause you grief.

As an aside, Vermont is one of my favourite states in which to travel. Congrats on the new-to-you bike.
 
YAY! Congrats. I’m down in White River if you ever want to talk shop.

Make sure you check out some of the Vermont club events - https://bmwmov.club/

Awesome! Yeah WRJ is an hour or so from my house, I live at the base of Route 73, Brandon/Forest Dale/ Goshen area. My R1100R will be landing sometime late April to early May, I signed up to met at Tozier's on Sunday May 2nd for breakfast. Would like to meet some folks, I may be on my Yamaha or Triumph. Didn't know Tozier's did breakfast... I love going for their clams though!

Cheers!
 
Congrats on the new ride!
In the early oilheads, a common issue was that the factory tied down the various harness sections too tightly.
This can cause the wires at the backside of the ignition switch to get pulled - look there, jiggle them (gently) while idling in the garage.
The tie-wraps under the forward area of the gas tank, holding the harnesses to the frame, are a likely culprit.

I intend to chase the electrical gremlin with vengeance once the bike lands in my shop. I'll be doing some work to make the bike more to my liking and set it up for "roadster" duties. Thanks so much for the direction here! I'll get it sorted quickly and fixed correctly.

As Pauls1150 noted, the wiring that travels in front of the headstock, get twisted repeatedly, and can break. That is what I experienced with my 2000 R1100 RS at about 60,000 miles. Mine would cause the bike to occasionally shut off, as the wires disengaged. Some folks do a solder repair, but I opted to replace that section of the wiring harness, which was available from BMW at the time. Due to the fairing/ instrument section, it was a fairly time consuming job. On your bike, should be a lot easier. There are you tube videos that help as well.

Nice looking oil head, love the green.

I'll definitely take a look at Youtube, I have my own little channel : JedzMoto
I was planning on doing an introduction video of the bike once it lands with a little ride and first impressions, I was also going to do a build series as I make the bike more "roadster" and less sport tourer.

Again I appreciate the insight here as well!
 
While you're learning your way around your bike's mechanicals you may want to check the wiring for the HES as there's a good chance it has deteriorated to the point where it will cause you grief.

As an aside, Vermont is one of my favourite states in which to travel. Congrats on the new-to-you bike.

Hall Effect Sensor, check it and replace it if necessary, got it!

I absolutely love living here. It's not easy being a born and raised local to find a steady career as a young(er) professional (just turned 37). Very hard to make out a good living here. Blessed to own my home and ride some of the best riding the country has to offer. Green Mountain Boys play in the Green mountain State :) .

Thanks for the warm welcome and heads up!

Best,
 
Just a clarification - you don't necessarily have to replace the HES, just get it re-wired; GSAddict does it quite well.
 
Just a clarification - you don't necessarily have to replace the HES, just get it re-wired; GSAddict does it quite well.

Interesting, something I could solder together myself? I just looked and it's a $250 part shipped. I'm currently researching on what it does now.
Best,
 
Possibly, if you're experienced with electro-mechanical devices, competent with soldering, and have a supply of High-temperature-insulation wiring.
 
Possibly, if you're experienced with electro-mechanical devices, competent with soldering, and have a supply of High-temperature-insulation wiring.

I got my Hammond ad it's internal Lessie up and running. That was allot of fun to diagnose and repair and boy oh boy I can get that puppy to crank! I tend to teach my self things I don't understand to bring myself to a level of understanding... My Goal in life; simplify the (perceived) complicated.
26677994_10208202327614789_5862522667630362158_o.jpg


I'm sure I could acquire some high temp wire easily... Can't imagine it's more complicated than my Hammond Organ.
 
Interesting, something I could solder together myself? I just looked and it's a $250 part shipped. I'm currently researching on what it does now.
Best,

If you can work on a Hammond, it would be doable. It's the wiring to and from the HES that's deficient. One owner here replaced it with a heat resistant aviation spec wire.
 
Congratulations! I recently acquired a '96 R850R and, while it it not my first BMW, it is my first boxer. I too have been enjoying my 24 K maintenance work and small upgrades. It is a simple and robust machine perhaps being flawed only by its substantial weight.

Enjoy the ride.

RK
 
Congratulations! I recently acquired a '96 R850R and, while it it not my first BMW, it is my first boxer. I too have been enjoying my 24 K maintenance work and small upgrades. It is a simple and robust machine perhaps being flawed only by its substantial weight.

Enjoy the ride.

RK
Congrats on your new bike!

I'm looking forward to getting my bike in my hands and actually getting some miles on it!

Curious on what is the difference from the 850 from the 1100? Is it a bore or crank (or both) difference?

Cheers!
 
Hi Again,

Just for reference since my R850R is of similar vintage: some of the worn or rotted "soft" parts I have replaced which you may want to check on your R1100R.

-steering dampening bushings
-control cable covers
-missing tank trim soft grommets (fitted into the tank rim itself for the trim screws to tap)
-final drive boot

Be well, ride safely.
RK
 
Congrats on your new bike!

I'm looking forward to getting my bike in my hands and actually getting some miles on it!

Curious on what is the difference from the 850 from the 1100? Is it a bore or crank (or both) difference?

Cheers!

My understanding is the that the R850r is a smaller bore version of the R1100r and that the engines are identical otherwise but I do not have definitive documentation of this. The 850 displacement model was offered to meet various license restrictions in Europe. The 850 was only imported to the US for a few years in the mid-90s, but continued in Europe into the 2000s.

The stock final drive may have been different on the two cycles but the previous owner of my r850r change to a 3.09 final drive which suits me fine at the moment.

Be well, ride safely.
RK
 
Found this article online:
https://www.motorcycle.com/manufacturer/bmw/first-impression-1996-bmw-r850r-859.html

"The R850R shares most all the same features found on it's larger stablemate. The fuel-injected, four-valve twin-cylinder engine is identical to the R1100R's mill, save for a smaller bore (87.8mm vs 99mm)."

And a few more tech tidbits:
Specifications:
Manufacturer: BMW
Model: R850R
Price: $8990.00
Engine: Air cooled/oil cooled boxer twin cylinder
Bore x Stroke: 87.8 mm x 70.5 mm
Displacement: 848 cc
Carburetion: Bosch Motronic fuel injection
Transmission: 5-speed, shaft drive
Wheelbase: 57.99 in.
Seat height: variable, 29.9 - 31.5 in.
Fuel capacity: 5.5 gallons
Claimed dry weight: 482 lbs.
 
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