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Thread: 2011 RT final drive fill plug stripped out..oh s**t!

  1. #1
    Slow/Look/Press/ROLL! DBCasey's Avatar
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    Angry 2011 RT final drive fill plug stripped out..oh s**t!

    Let me preface this by saying the last time the fill plug was removed and reinstalled it was done by the dealership and not by me.

    Prepping to perform a final drive drain and fill, along with lubing the driveshaft splines. Got my handy Haynes manual for guidance. Put the Torx bit into the final drive fill plug and give it a little pressure.. plug doesn't spin. Give it a little more pressure and the Torx bit spins but not the FD drain plug...

    So I've got a 9/32 easy out, air hammer and a impact handle set to get that sucker out. I guess I'm looking for guidance on if there's anything else I can try before I pull the trigger on that air hammer. I sure don't want to F up the final drive but I don't know of another option of getting the dang plug out.

    I've got a new drain plug and O-ring on order and won't begin this work until they're in hand. I've also got the Fontana Getaway at the end of the month so I might just wait til I get back before messing with this in case it goes sideways (which is par for me)!
    Thank in advance for any advice!

    EDIT - Is there anything preventing me from using the speed sensor port to refill the FD? Then at least I could go ahead with the drain and fill and I can just replace the plug whenever I want to (or not!)

    My dumb a** just went to the Hexhead library in this forum and saw where that port was used to fill the FD on a 2008 RT. I ordered a new O-ring for the speed sensor as well along with the plug and crush washer.

    Daryl
    Last edited by DBCasey; 04-06-2021 at 05:20 PM. Reason: A epiphany!
    Daryl Casey
    Frankfort, KY
    Thank a teacher if you can read this, thank a veteran that it's in English.

  2. #2
    Fortis Fortuna Adiuvat Omega Man's Avatar
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    You can grind an appropriate size torx bit to fit.....possibly add a little valve grinding compound for grip and gently tap with an impact driver in place.
    If you have/want to drill, left-hand drill bits coated with sticky grease to “grab” chips.
    Good luck.
    OM
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  3. #3
    Debbie's Servant Lee's Avatar
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    Daryl are you sure the fill plug is torx?
    Some models use a torx for the drain and hex for the fill plug.
    BMW does this to mess with us

    Your problem is a good reminder to always remove the fill plug first.
    Lee
    2016 R1200RS
    MOA # 30878
    Past BMW Bikes: 2011 K1300S, 2003 K1200RS, 1991 K75S, 1987 K75T, 1984 R100RT

  4. #4
    Registered User jandhumphreyme's Avatar
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    My 2011 R1200r is a T-45. The valve grinding paste is an idea. You might also try and fit a 6mm or 8mm hex wrench. If all else fails, the plug usually sits proud so you could cut a grove in it and use a chisel and tap it out or step drill it out.

    Good luck bloody frustrating no mater how you do it.
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  5. #5
    ohbeemer ramble's Avatar
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    Had the same problem bottom could be different from fill as suggested, was on my 14 RT. Solved by tapping in the appropriate sized Allen wrench and using a hammer < I know sounds desperate , and hitting the wrench in the counterclockwise direction until it busts free. I was able to reuse it.

  6. #6
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    If new drain plug on order then you could use jb weld or 30 min epoxy and jus sacrifice a torx or hex bit by cleaning both the bit and the plug, emery paper both parts and bond them together. Then next day get a heat gun and heat up the the whole mess and then put the ratchet or breaker handle to it. But, in the end if a gorilla cross threaded the thing in you will have to heli coil it to be sure of proper function once you get the plug out.

    Or, you could ignore it and Just remove the final drive and pour the oil out of the sensor hole and fill it back up through the same hole after putting it on the bike. Or take it back to the same mechanic and have them service the final drive and splines and not tell them of your initial effort and tell them they were the last ones to work on the bike and shrug your shoulders. Make an appt and hang out with a magazine and watch. Could be entertaining.
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  7. #7
    Registered User BMW_Ken's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lee View Post
    Daryl are you sure the fill plug is torx?
    Some models use a torx for the drain and hex for the fill plug.
    BMW does this to mess with us

    Your problem is a good reminder to always remove the fill plug first.
    On my 2011 R1200RT the final drive fill plug is a hex.
    Ken Martin
    2011 R1200RT
    Kingsport, TN

  8. #8
    Slow/Look/Press/ROLL! DBCasey's Avatar
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    To be honest, I'm not sure that the fill plug is a Torx. I was just using what the Haynes manual said (or at least what my pea brain thought it said) to use. If it IS a Hex fitting. that's a BS move by BMW.

    I hadn't removed the drain plug yet, so there's still oil in the FD. Methinks I'll just use the speed sensor port to fill the FD this time then work on getting the fill plug after I get the replacement parts. Or I might take chrisinsc's advice!

    Thanks to everyone for the advice!

    DC
    Daryl Casey
    Frankfort, KY
    Thank a teacher if you can read this, thank a veteran that it's in English.

  9. #9

    opposite drill bit

    One way to work these things is to get a left-handed drill bit, such as Ebay item 172840737686. Worst that could happen--unlikely, but manageable-- is that you would drill clean through and then have to flush the chips from the gear box.

  10. #10
    I suspect it isn't actually all that tight. It doesn't take much to have a Torx bit spin in a hex recess. I would try a straight fluted EZ Out.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
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  11. #11
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    For now you can fill the FD thru the speed sensor hole. No need for a new rubber gasket. Easy when you tighten the screw to secure doesn't take much.

  12. #12
    Registered User Anyname's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PGlaves View Post
    I suspect it isn't actually all that tight. It doesn't take much to have a Torx bit spin in a hex recess. I would try a straight fluted EZ Out.
    I'd make sure it's the correct Torx bit. There are some that will sort of grip in the next larger size hole and they can seem to be the right size until they slip. It's rare to have a large size Torx bit actually strip.
    BMW R bike rider, horizontally opposed to everything...

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Anyname View Post
    I'd make sure it's the correct Torx bit. There are some that will sort of grip in the next larger size hole and they can seem to be the right size until they slip. It's rare to have a large size Torx bit actually strip.
    Based on Post #7, this thread, I think the plug takes a Hex (Allen) wrench.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  14. #14
    Daryl,
    Get the hex up in there and get it out. The Haynes manual never mentions it’s a hex, and yes the torx will spin, but you’ll still have enough meat on that head with the proper size hex to get it out. (Ask me how I know.)
    R. Reece Mullins Ebony R1200RT (Gretchen)
    MOA # 143779
    MOA Charter Club #5 #364 #100
    BMW MOA Vice President

  15. #15
    Registered User drneo66's Avatar
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    10-13 final drive fill plug (hex):




    10-13 Drain plug (Torx):



    I always fill via the speedo sensor - then I don't need to worry about yet another crush washer (as the speedo o-ring seems to be fine for several drain/fills)
    Current: 2007 BMW R1200RT, 2013 F800GS
    Former: 1995 BMW K75S, 2009 BMW G650GS
    MOA Member #:150400, IBA#: 37558

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