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Replacement battery for airhead
- Thread starter 30807
- Start date
I prefer OEM batteries...yes, I have to struggle every 5-6 years to squeeze the battery through the frame, but I don't seem to remember that over time! I think the Odyssey brand comes up the most for recommendations. I would just be sure you understand the terminal options that come with a replacement.
About 2/3 down the page, Snowbum has a section on "Sources and Models":
https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/newbattery.htm
About 2/3 down the page, Snowbum has a section on "Sources and Models":
https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/newbattery.htm
m_stock10506
Well-known member
The 1983 R80RT uses the large battery for Airheads.
In my two Airheads, I have been using Panasonic AGM Sealed batteries. The LC-X1228-P is the model. They are marginally smaller in dimension than the OEM battery, but they still need to have the rubber bumpers at the rear of the battery box opened so that the tray can be tilted backwards. Once tilted, the battery goes in easily. They have the same terminal style/size as the OEM battery, so the cables should attach without twisting to new positions. My batteries usually stay in place for 5 to 6 years and are replaced just for safety sake. They are still at 12.7-12.8 volts when removed.
If you search for the battery, you will get lots of Panasonic "replacement" results. Those are cheaper, similar products, but not real Panasonic brand batteries.
I have a 75 R75/6 and use a Duracell battery from batteries plus. It’s a AGM battery made by East penn. the last one went 8 years. Also the one in my R12 R is 4 years old and doing fine.
Darryl Cainey
Sir Darby
MichiganR80RT
New member
I am using the Duracell AGM battery from Batteries Plus in my 1984 R80RT, this one went in in 2018. I used to use WestCo AGM batteries, I got 3 to 4 years life.
jhall
BMWMOA #24809
No Wet Battery
My Airhead came to me with an almost new battery, a wet one. When / if it ever wears out I will NOT be replacing it with another wet one. The 650 amp alternator is percolating the water away too fast for me. Just topped it up again yesterday, of course gotta use distilled water. As others have mentioned here, there's lots of modern, maintenance free batteries available. Also, there's a Batteries Plus near me. Hopefully the OP has one nearby also, they are the go to place for anything battery. IMHO
My Airhead came to me with an almost new battery, a wet one. When / if it ever wears out I will NOT be replacing it with another wet one. The 650 amp alternator is percolating the water away too fast for me. Just topped it up again yesterday, of course gotta use distilled water. As others have mentioned here, there's lots of modern, maintenance free batteries available. Also, there's a Batteries Plus near me. Hopefully the OP has one nearby also, they are the go to place for anything battery. IMHO
jhall
BMWMOA #24809
Not Maintenance Fee
I have been a classic car enthusiast since the mid 1980s, and the old wet batteries' water level had to be monitored on them also, even if using a generator. When maintenance free batteries came out, many years ago, I was done with maintenance required (wet) batteries, in cars and motorcycles. I was somewhat surprised to see a wet battery in this Airhead when I bought it last October. It's the first wet battery I have owned in at least 15 years. Can't wait to get rid of it.
The volt meter says it charges 14V to 14.4V at road speeds, and 4000-5000 RPM. I recently bought a digital volt meter, that plugs into a cigarette lighter receptacle, will soon be able to compare it with the analog volt meter, to insure it is accurate. However, wet batteries have never been maintenance free. The maintenance required is to check the water level frequently. The water evaporates, over time, so must be monitored and topped off when needed. I have checked mine three times since last October, and it needed water each time, with the level down to the tops of the plates.
I have been a classic car enthusiast since the mid 1980s, and the old wet batteries' water level had to be monitored on them also, even if using a generator. When maintenance free batteries came out, many years ago, I was done with maintenance required (wet) batteries, in cars and motorcycles. I was somewhat surprised to see a wet battery in this Airhead when I bought it last October. It's the first wet battery I have owned in at least 15 years. Can't wait to get rid of it.
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Measuring voltage at the fairing or some other location other than at the battery can show the voltage down 0.2-0.5v due to losses (resistance at connections) in the system. So, it's possible your battery voltage could be slightly higher than indicated. IMO it is unusual for a wet-cell battery to boil or even evaporate water as that kind of rate. On my /7, I only occasionally check the water level in my battery...I might add water once every year or so.
There is an adjustable voltage regulator for the Airhead. It is useful for people who only ride locally and only for short distances. The output is set to the upper end. But if one has that kind of regulator and use the bike for longer rides, hours at a time, that would result in higher charging that could damage the battery.
There is an adjustable voltage regulator for the Airhead. It is useful for people who only ride locally and only for short distances. The output is set to the upper end. But if one has that kind of regulator and use the bike for longer rides, hours at a time, that would result in higher charging that could damage the battery.
stevenrankin
Active member
wet batteries
One of the first things I did when my "wet cell" batteries kicked off was to replace them with sealed gel cell batteries, I have never looked back with fondness on the old wet cells. Bloody pain in the butt having to check them all the time as well as the outgassing form charging. Since going to gel cell or sealed, I have never had any corrosion on the cables or anywhere around the battery box.
I installed a lot of car batteries as a mechanic and I will say, even with a properly working voltage regulator, wet batteries use water, and produce Hydrogen gas, They vent and take the acid out with the gas produced during charging, sort of hitchhiking and the acid does wonders for things made out of metal. In my old wet cell days, I could expect to normally add distilled water to my batteries once a week, now mind you that is riding every day for the week, Someone who rides less will use less water. This adding of water was despite the voltage regulator working properly.
I don't know how it is the new fangled gel cell batteries work so as to keep the gas off and venting down, don't know, don't care, I just know, I will NEVER put one into any power equipment I own unless I have absolutely no choice. First thing I did on my stand by generator which came with a wet battery was to get rid of it and put in the dry replacement.
Gee, LOL, does anyone think maybe I hate wet cell batteries? Now I know nothing about Lithium batteries and who knows when it is time to replace the Odyssey batteries I have now, which work VERY well and have lasted the longest of every other battery, I might go to Deka if I can find someone near by who sells them. or I may explore the Lithium systems. St.
One of the first things I did when my "wet cell" batteries kicked off was to replace them with sealed gel cell batteries, I have never looked back with fondness on the old wet cells. Bloody pain in the butt having to check them all the time as well as the outgassing form charging. Since going to gel cell or sealed, I have never had any corrosion on the cables or anywhere around the battery box.
I installed a lot of car batteries as a mechanic and I will say, even with a properly working voltage regulator, wet batteries use water, and produce Hydrogen gas, They vent and take the acid out with the gas produced during charging, sort of hitchhiking and the acid does wonders for things made out of metal. In my old wet cell days, I could expect to normally add distilled water to my batteries once a week, now mind you that is riding every day for the week, Someone who rides less will use less water. This adding of water was despite the voltage regulator working properly.
I don't know how it is the new fangled gel cell batteries work so as to keep the gas off and venting down, don't know, don't care, I just know, I will NEVER put one into any power equipment I own unless I have absolutely no choice. First thing I did on my stand by generator which came with a wet battery was to get rid of it and put in the dry replacement.
Gee, LOL, does anyone think maybe I hate wet cell batteries? Now I know nothing about Lithium batteries and who knows when it is time to replace the Odyssey batteries I have now, which work VERY well and have lasted the longest of every other battery, I might go to Deka if I can find someone near by who sells them. or I may explore the Lithium systems. St.
pglaves
#13338
I think that battery condition and behavior is directly related to the specific characteristics of the charging system, and to a considerable degree vice versa. That is one key reason that different people with different bikes have different experiences with batteries.
stevenrankin
Active member
Differences
Whole heartedly the charging system and its performance relates directly to battery life, performance and in the case of wet batteries, the loss of water. No matter if a charging system is working 100% correct, a wet cell battery will loose water, no way it can't happen, the H2 gas is produced in the charging state and it comes from the water in the battery. The venting of the gas carries as hitchhiker wet solution, which is the cause of corrosion on cables so common in the old wet cell systems. An over charging charging system due to a bad voltage regulator will increase this loss of water and out gassing to the extent I have seen batteries blow up like balloons even explode. Working on a car one time I had a customer with a lit cigarette lean over my shoulder to see what I was doing while I was quickly trying to shut the car off as its battery was expanding and contracting like a set of lungs. Plenty of H2 being produced, (no smoking in the shop but some people think they are special). Turns out his voltage regulator was defective and he was getting full charge of 24 volts off his alternator along with 100amps.
Ok a long story, even the best charging systems are not perfect with wet cell batteries. Climate also had a lot to do with their off gassing, hot days, they produce more gas. The rule of thumb for car charging systems is 13.8 to 14.8 volts, I would quibble that one or two tenths of a volt lower would be the range for a BMW airhead. So say 14.5 volts or so. Even at that setting or lower, you will still loose water. Hey some of us get lucky and can go for months without a great loss, others like me while I didn't loose a gallon of water each week, I did check regularly because hey, it is part of keeping things in shape to check the battery, especially one that uses water.
The way to go is the sealed gel batteries, while they are not perfect either, they are a whole heck of a lot less trouble and worth every penny in my mind. One thing I don't have to worry about now is water level in the battery and the battery connections and box are clean, no more cleaning with baking soda and water.
Wet cell batteries are old tech, and while cheaper in price, I myself don't think they are cheaper in maintenance. Cheers, St.
Whole heartedly the charging system and its performance relates directly to battery life, performance and in the case of wet batteries, the loss of water. No matter if a charging system is working 100% correct, a wet cell battery will loose water, no way it can't happen, the H2 gas is produced in the charging state and it comes from the water in the battery. The venting of the gas carries as hitchhiker wet solution, which is the cause of corrosion on cables so common in the old wet cell systems. An over charging charging system due to a bad voltage regulator will increase this loss of water and out gassing to the extent I have seen batteries blow up like balloons even explode. Working on a car one time I had a customer with a lit cigarette lean over my shoulder to see what I was doing while I was quickly trying to shut the car off as its battery was expanding and contracting like a set of lungs. Plenty of H2 being produced, (no smoking in the shop but some people think they are special). Turns out his voltage regulator was defective and he was getting full charge of 24 volts off his alternator along with 100amps.
Ok a long story, even the best charging systems are not perfect with wet cell batteries. Climate also had a lot to do with their off gassing, hot days, they produce more gas. The rule of thumb for car charging systems is 13.8 to 14.8 volts, I would quibble that one or two tenths of a volt lower would be the range for a BMW airhead. So say 14.5 volts or so. Even at that setting or lower, you will still loose water. Hey some of us get lucky and can go for months without a great loss, others like me while I didn't loose a gallon of water each week, I did check regularly because hey, it is part of keeping things in shape to check the battery, especially one that uses water.
The way to go is the sealed gel batteries, while they are not perfect either, they are a whole heck of a lot less trouble and worth every penny in my mind. One thing I don't have to worry about now is water level in the battery and the battery connections and box are clean, no more cleaning with baking soda and water.
Wet cell batteries are old tech, and while cheaper in price, I myself don't think they are cheaper in maintenance. Cheers, St.
jhall
BMWMOA #24809
Agree With Steven
Steven, again I agree with you on the wet batteries. Heck, I thought they were extinct, till I bought this Airhead. If I recall, the Studebaker Manual says to check battery level weekly, and there's a reason for that. At any rate, I turned mine in today as a core for an AGM, and hope I never stumble into another wet battery. Life is too short to have to bother with buying & storing distilled water, then checking the battery level every time I check the oil. Then unscrewing those tiny caps, and trying to pour water in without making a mess. DONE with all that. LOL
Steven, again I agree with you on the wet batteries. Heck, I thought they were extinct, till I bought this Airhead. If I recall, the Studebaker Manual says to check battery level weekly, and there's a reason for that. At any rate, I turned mine in today as a core for an AGM, and hope I never stumble into another wet battery. Life is too short to have to bother with buying & storing distilled water, then checking the battery level every time I check the oil. Then unscrewing those tiny caps, and trying to pour water in without making a mess. DONE with all that. LOL
stevenrankin
Active member
eye dropper
I used to use an eye dropper for topping off the batteries on the bikes. I also had a carton of baking soda near by my charging station. Those days are gone and not looked back on with fondness. Joe, I think you made the right choice, as to the charging system post, I think you will find the solution is ditching the wet battery.
Now I can't promise a failure on the Omega system but, I really think you should do okay with the charging system and new battery. Cheers, St.
I used to use an eye dropper for topping off the batteries on the bikes. I also had a carton of baking soda near by my charging station. Those days are gone and not looked back on with fondness. Joe, I think you made the right choice, as to the charging system post, I think you will find the solution is ditching the wet battery.
Now I can't promise a failure on the Omega system but, I really think you should do okay with the charging system and new battery. Cheers, St.
I use a straw from the local fast food place. Place one end of the straw in the battery cell hole. Hold the straw at a slight angle. Then from a measuring cup with a pour spout, put the spout up against the straw and poor slowly. The water will adhere to the straw into the cell. Maybe put a few paper towels around to catch any stray droplets of water.
