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2004 R1150RS, 43,450 miles Won't run

It sounds like at least one of the cables in the cable distributor (Bowden box) has come out of its anchor point. Here are a couple of pictures, one is off the Beemer Boneyard site and I don't know the source of the other (ADVRider? or something like that).
It's true that it's much easier for a coil to fire in the open air than when under compression... but do the cables first. Handle the tiny little plastic connector on the coils Very Carefully - they crack easily.
View attachment 82831
View attachment 82832
Oh wow, a picture is 1000 words. Excellent. Now I know what it looks like in there.
 
Thank you all who chimed in to help. The coil replacement is out of an abundance of caution. They were 18 y.o. so while the bike is "down", I ordered new coils. Next question is the old spacing boot (see attachment) is transferred to new coil. The instructions state use some hi-temp adhesive on the boot. However it did not make a suggestion as to what to use. How hot does it get in the spark plug well?20210325_173321.jpg
 
Thank you all who chimed in to help. The coil replacement is out of an abundance of caution. They were 18 y.o. so while the bike is "down", I ordered new coils. Next question is the old spacing boot (see attachment) is transferred to new coil. The instructions state use some hi-temp adhesive on the boot. However it did not make a suggestion as to what to use. How hot does it get in the spark plug well?View attachment 82916

I would not use an adhesive of any kind. Coil on Plug has been around for over 25 years now and a great many different manufacturers use a boot that is similar. The boot is an exclusion boot, keeps the water and such from entering the spark plug well. Not exclusive to BMW.

I have been using a silicone paste that is also sold as dielectric paste and my results have been good enough.

The ones others that use the silicone sealant and such, the boot is always destroyed and I had a Ford truck where the adhesive stuck to the inside of the spark plug well, the coil as well and I destroyed 5 of 8 getting the coils out.
 
I thought about that also. The manufacturer suggested an adhesive (see attachment). I think I have some dielectric grease around.20210325_213009.jpg
 
Looking back on this thread, I neglected to leave a summation. The major issue was not running and after t/s I found that the right throttle cable sheath was hindering the throttle from closing. I could see that the throttle stop was not fully closed there by having an out of balanced starting fuel mixture. I pushed the sheath back into the Bowden box and all was cool. I did not open the Bowden box not wanting to open a can of worms. I have but a couple hundred miles on and purring well.
 
Looking back on this thread, I neglected to leave a summation. The major issue was not running and after t/s I found that the right throttle cable sheath was hindering the throttle from closing. I could see that the throttle stop was not fully closed there by having an out of balanced starting fuel mixture. I pushed the sheath back into the Bowden box and all was cool. I did not open the Bowden box not wanting to open a can of worms. I have but a couple hundred miles on and purring well.

Check that the cable to the right throttle body is properly in place at the throttle body. P. Glaves

Trust Paul next time.
 
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