R1100S strut change

I have been reading suspension threads here and decided to replace what are probably original struts, (Showa), on my bike with 30k miles (used purchase). I placed a tentative order with the Beemer Shop. They are waiting for my exact measurements of the existing ones as the R1100S apparently changed from time to time. I looked in my Clymer manual regarding fairing removal so I could measure the front strut. Then I looked at strut removal and the manual said I would also need to remove the gas tank and front wheel and the rear wheel for the rear strut. If that is the case I am outside my comfort level and will need a shop to do it. Has anyone done this operation themselves w/o removing wheels? Thanks

When I changed the shocks on my RT (and I don't know why they call 'em "struts" on the parts fiche, these aren't cars, but I'm sometimes old-fashioned), it was absolutely necessary to pull the tank for the front shock: the upper mount is in the neck of the frame under the front of the tank. I didn't have to remove the front wheel, but I did have a chunk of wood under the centerstand to raise the bike a little more. I don't know about the S's top mount in particular, but I actually used a 2" vise to grab the little (8 mm?) stud at the top of my shock.
Pulling the rear shock is more tedious, but removing the wheel gives you access. The only real "gotcha" is re-torquing the lug nuts if you don't have a decent torque wrench.

I did both on my S and it was dead simple. No tank removal required. No fairing removal necessary. As Paul said, start with the bike on the centre stand on a 2 x 4. Loosen all pertinent fasteners. I think there are two - one up top in front of the gas tank cover and a second on the telelever. You'll have to remove the damping adjustment knob as well. Put a wedge under the front tire to give you control as you lower the wheel/telelever after you remove the upper and lower mounting bolts. Once the front wheel is lowered you'll be able to wiggle out (sorry for the technical terms) the front shock. DO NOT LOSE the rubber upper mounting grommets. Reassemble in reverse order remembering to grease the lower mounting bolt where it contacts the shock mounting eye. Wouldn't hurt to put a little thread lock on that bolt.

Caution: Make sure your brake lines don't get stretched when lowering the front end.

Same deal for the rear shock except you should remove the back wheel in which case you don't need the block of wood under the centre stand. I did mine with the wheel on but needed a 4 x 6 piece of wood and things were a bit "tippy" as the bike wanted to roll forward off the stand. You could use a tie down to fasten the stand to the front wheel. Best to just remove the back wheel.

Hope this helps!

Cool, mountaingrown won't have to futz with fuel and vent lines!
BC, did your stock shock have that little nub at the top too? If so, what did you capture it with while undoing and reinstalling the shock mounting hardware? Just curious.

Pauls1150 said:

Cool, mountaingrown won't have to futz with fuel and vent lines!
BC, did your stock shock have that little nub at the top too? If so, what did you capture it with while undoing and reinstalling the shock mounting hardware? Just curious.

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It was 12 years ago so I'll be darned if I can remember.

Whatever was there, I believe it may have come out with the shock. The S has that extended piece for the damper rebound adjuster so I think it retained any bits that were underneath the "steering head". The replacement shock included rubber grommets, etc. Not much help, I know. My memory is good but its short.

Thanks!

Thanks for the help!

Pauls1150 said:

When I changed the shocks on my RT (and I don't know why they call 'em "struts" on the parts fiche, these aren't cars .. .

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Well, technically they are struts because they combine a shock absorber and a spring in a single assembly. On some cars you can buy shocks and you can buy springs. On other cars you buy the spring and the shock as an assembly called a strut - just like we usually do with our BMW motorcycles.

Haven't looked at mine with the exception of futzing around to install bar backs.

Thank You Paul G! I've always thought of a shock as a shock (damper body/etc.) and a spring as a spring - it never occurred to me that the "Assembly" was then a Strut.
I always thought that a "strut" was a fixed piece, like what some people used to insert instead of a rear shock assembly, or sometimes a Heim joint for its adjustability.
Always good to learn something new.

Paul S

Measurements

I'm surprised Ted needs you to measure the OEM shocks. They are a standard length on your S. Recommend the Wilbers over anything else he has to offer.

Thanks

Jeff at Beemer shop said the R1100S was the only BMW that changed struts per version as the Boxer Cup replica and Sport and regular model or some such changed the strut lengths. Glad they have this attention to detail personally. I just hope I can do the install competently.

Fyi

Ted and Jeff are somewhat correct. I just went through this with the Ohlin guys who set up the Boxer Cup race bikes. I had a set of Custom Ohlins made. In their research they found they supplied all shocks the same length. The raising and lowering of the bike was accomplished with the Paralever Arm being shortened. The Ohlins do have length adjustability where as the shocks Ted is offering now do not. Ohlins are no longer available that is why I had them custom made by David at https://www.fastbikeindustries.com/ David worked at Ohlins USA at the time they supplied the Boxer Cup racers, he actually assembled the shocks for them and tuned them with the riders. When I took off my OEM shocks they where the exact length as the new Ohlins.
The lengths are: 313mm Rear, 318mm Front.
Ted and Jeff are great guys to work with, I'm currently working with them on a couple of our other BMW's. Ted I'm pretty sure still has a S, he has Wilber's on his I'm fairly sure.
Personally I find the Ohlins perform the best for my riding. I have two R1150R's with Ohlins and now two R1100S with the Ohlins. Working with Ted on our third R1150R which has been now fitted with TracTive, they are proto-types for fitting the R bike.

Thanks!

Good to know. Did you do your own replacement? I find the prospect challenging.

Yes. I do all my own work on the bikes. This is an easy DIY project. You don't need to remove the tank for the front R&R. I have a portable type center stand and strapped the front end up off the ground then unbolted the front shock to remove. If you currently have the adjustable knob atop the front shock be careful taking it off as it has a ball bearing ball that will fall out when you pull it up after removing the little screw. The rear is off the ground with the stand in place. Removal of the rear wheel gives better access removing the lower shock bolt and the removal of the shock. The upper rear shock bolt is under the seat easily accessed to get to. The new shock install is straight forward, you'll need to route the pre-load is the only thing to watch out for on the new rear shock, pretty sure it will be an adjustable type remote unit. It's a good idea but not mandatory to replace the two piece upper Bushings (2 required, Part # 31 42 2 311 994) on the front shock top where it goes through the frame.

Thanks!

Appreciate the info!

update

Just wanted to update for the archives that I was able to install my new struts in the R1100S thanks to much input from this forum. Further search from the good old internet seems to imply that a Boxer cup replica and a "sport" version are different lengths than the stock version Showa. I dealt with the front by using my cheap Harbor freight floor jack under the engine to elevate the space till I could remove the front. No need to remove the front wheel or gas tank. I did remove the rear Brembo non abs caliper then the rear wheel to gain easy access to the rear. I actually strapped both sides of the frame to ceiling angle metal that I already installed to hang ladders etc but that was not necessary. I am awaiting a new battery and air filter till I wrap it all up and report on the ride. I went with simple TFX struts as I am just a recreational rider in the Calif Sierras. No separate reservoir etc. Still cost me about 45% of what I paid for the bike. LOL

Good Luck with the TFX shocks.