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The pivot bearing issue was on the pre EVO( drive with hole). The current drive doesn’t typically wear out the bearings like the prior models did. If there is no play when drive is lowered I would look elsewhere.
The bearings on drive pivot point stay the same tension as opposed to the adjustable set up on pre EVO
Says GS, lot’s of common values to other first gen Hexhead models
https://motorcycleinfo.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/R1200GS-Torque-Values.pdf
Many thanks! I guess on the RT its a torx T55
"Rear wheel drive to swinging arm, M12 x 1.5100 Nm (74 ft-lbs)" looks like the one.
Unless you are removing the drive totally, no need to remove that pivot pin. The torque arm releases the drive to tilt down.
When I replaced my 07 final drive, that bolt was stubborn as all get out, even with heat, lubricating fluid, and an impact wrench.
I'd suggest having a strong friend with long breaker bars on both sides, a good T55 bit, and a way to strap down the bike so your wrenching doesn't cause an unintended pinning.
I replaced the bolt, nut, plastic piece, and tiny grease seals.
I haven't heard many bearings going bad, but the large crown bearing could induce play at the brake if the drive isn't lowered.
Hopefully you read through all of this?
https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?96845-A-Guide-to-the-Hexhead-Camhead-Final-Drive-and-Shaft-Drive
When I replaced my 07 final drive, that bolt was stubborn as all get out, even with heat, lubricating fluid, and an impact wrench.
I'd suggest having a strong friend with long breaker bars on both sides, a good T55 bit, and a way to strap down the bike so your wrenching doesn't cause an unintended pinning.
I replaced the bolt, nut, plastic piece, and tiny grease seals.
I haven't heard many bearings going bad, but the large crown bearing could induce play at the brake if the drive isn't lowered.
Hopefully you read through all of this?
https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?96845-A-Guide-to-the-Hexhead-Camhead-Final-Drive-and-Shaft-Drive
One question is whether there is supposed to be an "o-ring" on the outside of the bearing cage as there is no "o-ring" there now and water can seep past the pin into the assembly.
At this point the thread title is not really descriptive of the content but best in one thread.
Still going end to end on the new to me 39k mile 08 (08/07 mfg date) 1200RT.
I think I'm reading your question correctly?
On the side closest to the wheel, there's a felt-like gasket ring, and a very thin o-ring.
https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51560&rnd=09082020
The coil puller (sold at various online retailers) will make removing the coil easy and won't damage it. I always unhook the coil, as that seems to reduce the risk of that flimsy electrical connector from breaking.
Hydraulic clutch - so no cable adjustment
If you don't have the mineral clutch oil yet, head to a larger bike shop. I think I paid $12 for a whole quart of Magura "Royal Blood" - which is not only the correct stuff, but also enough to do at least 5 flushes.