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Thread: 2008 1200RT Pivot Bearing Replacement

  1. #16
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    Jul 2018
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    Corralitos, CA - Santa Cruz County
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    Quote Originally Posted by drneo66 View Post
    The coil puller (sold at various online retailers) will make removing the coil easy and won't damage it. I always unhook the coil, as that seems to reduce the risk of that flimsy electrical connector from breaking.

    Hydraulic clutch - so no cable adjustment

    If you don't have the mineral clutch oil yet, head to a larger bike shop. I think I paid $12 for a whole quart of Magura "Royal Blood" - which is not only the correct stuff, but also enough to do at least 5 flushes.
    Bike came with almost a full container of the Magura product, so lucky there. Will add the coil puller to the list. Thanks again for the help.
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  2. #17
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    Jul 2018
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    Corralitos, CA - Santa Cruz County
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    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BsS8y6YlbkM

    This is a nice vid with torque values and some interesting maintenance elements as the tech breaks down the rear suspension to replace the front boot.

    Interesting that he pulls the sealed bearing seals out just blops some EP2 in them and puts the seals back in. He is also generous with EP2 upon reassembly of all moving parts. Lastly he definitely follows the book and uses blue locktite.

    I replaced the roller bearing on the left side of the final drive. Also put in the missing spongy gasket. It reduced the play in that bearing assembly but did not completely eliminate it. Replacing the pin next as it looked scuffed. Likely its better to replace both if you have a loose bearing there.
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