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Thread: 2008 1200RT Pivot Bearing Replacement

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  1. #1
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    2008 1200RT Pivot Bearing Replacement

    I searched but I just need to know whether the loose final drive due to pivot bearings is traceable to one bearing or the other.

    They look totally different. One is sealed caged balls and the other is needle bearings.

    Not looking to save money, just time.
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  2. #2
    not so retired henzilla's Avatar
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    The pivot bearing issue was on the pre EVO( drive with hole). The current drive doesn’t typically wear out the bearings like the prior models did. If there is no play when drive is lowered I would look elsewhere.
    The bearings on drive pivot point stay the same tension as opposed to the adjustable set up on pre EVO
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    Quote Originally Posted by henzilla View Post
    The pivot bearing issue was on the pre EVO( drive with hole). The current drive doesnít typically wear out the bearings like the prior models did. If there is no play when drive is lowered I would look elsewhere.
    The bearings on drive pivot point stay the same tension as opposed to the adjustable set up on pre EVO
    Thanks. I will check when I drop the drive but with the rear brake on it has a little play at 12 and 6 and NO play at 3 and 6.

    Do you know what the proper torque is for the 24mm nut and the torx bolt on the inside of the swing arm is? The whole thing spins when I put a wrench on the 24mm nut on the outside of the swing arm.
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    not so retired henzilla's Avatar
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    Says GS, lotís of common values to other first gen Hexhead models

    https://motorcycleinfo.co.uk/wp-cont...que-Values.pdf
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    Quote Originally Posted by henzilla View Post
    Says GS, lotís of common values to other first gen Hexhead models

    https://motorcycleinfo.co.uk/wp-cont...que-Values.pdf
    Many thanks! I guess on the RT its a torx T55

    "Rear wheel drive to swinging arm, M12 x 1.5100 Nm (74 ft-lbs)" looks like the one.
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    not so retired henzilla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisinsc View Post
    Many thanks! I guess on the RT its a torx T55

    "Rear wheel drive to swinging arm, M12 x 1.5100 Nm (74 ft-lbs)" looks like the one.
    Unless you are removing the drive totally, no need to remove that pivot pin. The torque arm releases the drive to tilt down.
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    https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread...hange-2008-DIY
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    Quote Originally Posted by henzilla View Post
    Unless you are removing the drive totally, no need to remove that pivot pin. The torque arm releases the drive to tilt down.
    I wanted to ensue it was torqued to spec initially. It was not. It's coming apart now as I am replacing those bearings. I will also relube the driveshaft interfaces. Hope the driveshaft is ok as well as the other pivot bearings. Something isn't quite right as there is a slight vibration under load when applying power. I am hoping it's just dry splines but will not be surprised if a U joint is bad. Just part of the dice roll when buying one of these bikes used I guess.
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    When I replaced my 07 final drive, that bolt was stubborn as all get out, even with heat, lubricating fluid, and an impact wrench.

    I'd suggest having a strong friend with long breaker bars on both sides, a good T55 bit, and a way to strap down the bike so your wrenching doesn't cause an unintended pinning.

    I replaced the bolt, nut, plastic piece, and tiny grease seals.

    I haven't heard many bearings going bad, but the large crown bearing could induce play at the brake if the drive isn't lowered.

    Hopefully you read through all of this?
    https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?96845-A-Guide-to-the-Hexhead-Camhead-Final-Drive-and-Shaft-Drive
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    Quote Originally Posted by drneo66 View Post
    When I replaced my 07 final drive, that bolt was stubborn as all get out, even with heat, lubricating fluid, and an impact wrench.

    I'd suggest having a strong friend with long breaker bars on both sides, a good T55 bit, and a way to strap down the bike so your wrenching doesn't cause an unintended pinning.

    I replaced the bolt, nut, plastic piece, and tiny grease seals.

    I haven't heard many bearings going bad, but the large crown bearing could induce play at the brake if the drive isn't lowered.

    Hopefully you read through all of this?
    https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?96845-A-Guide-to-the-Hexhead-Camhead-Final-Drive-and-Shaft-Drive
    Well low and behold, I am a bit chagrined now that I have tackled the frozen pivot bearing bolt and right side pin. Should have sprayed something to help down the right side pin hole. Holy cow I thought the thing was going to be wrecked by the time I finally got it off enough to move without a breaker bar. Whoever put the replacement final drive on this bike did not use any anti seize or moly lube anywhere. Both pins are disimilar metals to the aluminum hole in the end of the paralever and everything was locked almost solid. Both bearings look ok as does the driveshaft but the splines on the FD input shaft were dry. The u joint back there feels fine. I will clean up everything and relube and put it back together tomorrow. Maybe I get lucky and the pivot bearings are ok and the relubed driveshaft interface makes the driveline vibration go away.

    Hey hen, i was a dork about the torque. The whole thing spins and it was so frozen that torquing to spec was impossible. Tomorrow it will be possible.
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    Quote Originally Posted by drneo66 View Post
    When I replaced my 07 final drive, that bolt was stubborn as all get out, even with heat, lubricating fluid, and an impact wrench.

    I'd suggest having a strong friend with long breaker bars on both sides, a good T55 bit, and a way to strap down the bike so your wrenching doesn't cause an unintended pinning.

    I replaced the bolt, nut, plastic piece, and tiny grease seals.

    I haven't heard many bearings going bad, but the large crown bearing could induce play at the brake if the drive isn't lowered.

    Hopefully you read through all of this?
    https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?96845-A-Guide-to-the-Hexhead-Camhead-Final-Drive-and-Shaft-Drive
    So I did read that thread btw and I have the newest final drive. The side with the sealed bearing (riders right) makes sense in how the parts stack up and get captured against the alum casting(with a nice sealed washer) of the paralever arm when the whole assembly is tightened up.

    The other side, however, with the needle bearing looks to me like the face of the pin just rides like a bushing on the needle bearing cage which does not move. It also looks like the face on the other end of the pin mates right against the paralever casting and on my bike it has beaten a shallow groove into the casting which I think is where the play I felt came from.
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  11. #11
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    So, I see how everything stacks now that I got it back together. The whole assembly indexes on the right side with the sealed bearing. The pin on the left side floats laterally in the bearing and the protective face of the pin is proud of the bearing cage.

    One question is whether there is supposed to be an "o-ring" on the outside of the bearing cage as there is no "o-ring" there now and water can seep past the pin into the assembly.

    So the play in the wheel at 12 and 6 is that needle bearing. Just confirmed with someone else rocking the wheel. Very slight but there. Oh well that mystery is solved.
    Last edited by chrisinsc; 03-12-2021 at 10:16 PM.
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