Can someone please convince my that dropping somewhere around $1300 on new shocks (front and back) for my 21 year old R1100RS is worth it? That's probably half the value of the entire bike. The bike runs great and I'd like to keep it (which I know is part of the answer to my question). Is there a cheaper alternative (has original shocks)? Thanks in advance.
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Suspension Question
- Thread starter mhallman
- Start date
Shocks
I've got a 97 RT with stock shocks. My previous bike had aftermarket shocks on the rear and matched springs on the front. Unless you are planning on riding less than 50,000 miles, the aftermarkets matched to my weight and expected use were the right move. My 97 only has 38K miles on it, but I can already tell that the shocks are a bad match for riding solo with empty panniers. My plan is double up touring in the near future. And I totally plan to replace the shocks with aftermarkets at least after the stocks fail and probably before that happens.
I've got a 97 RT with stock shocks. My previous bike had aftermarket shocks on the rear and matched springs on the front. Unless you are planning on riding less than 50,000 miles, the aftermarkets matched to my weight and expected use were the right move. My 97 only has 38K miles on it, but I can already tell that the shocks are a bad match for riding solo with empty panniers. My plan is double up touring in the near future. And I totally plan to replace the shocks with aftermarkets at least after the stocks fail and probably before that happens.
At the RA Rally in 2013, there was a deal on Ohilins, of which I took advantage. Another rally goer asked why I'd spend that kind of money on a '98 Oilhead, such an old bike. I explained that at my age, I did not foresee another bike in my future and hence, the money for the shocks. The bike handled so much better riding home on the same curvy twisty roads that we had taken to the rally. My other bike has a Wilbers shock. The K's ride is also noticeably improved with better suspension.
If you are planning on keeping your bike for high mileage or time, the shocks can be (and in my case have been) rebuilt for a fraction of the price of replacement shocks.
If you are planning on keeping your bike for high mileage or time, the shocks can be (and in my case have been) rebuilt for a fraction of the price of replacement shocks.
slime
New member
Yes...what everyone else says. I picked up a 1997 R850r a bout 3 years ago. It only had 25,000 miles on it but it handled horrible...to me anyway. Since it's not a desirable bike to most people I knew I would be keeping it for a long time. I found a used set of Wilbur shocks with the adjustable pre-load. Sent them to The Beemer Shop and had them setup to my weight and rebuilt. Amazing difference and because I found them used I saved about $500 compared to the same ones new. Now If I could only afford to do the same to the DRZ...
pauls1150
MOA #24991, south of Los Angeles
Factory shocks are "marginal" on most new bikes, including the oilheads such as the R1100 series.
New high-quality shocks will not only help the bike handle much better (after you get the spring rates, sag, and damping set up), but you'll be less fatigued while riding and your tires will last longer.
I have Ohlins front & rear, no regrets; one niggle was that the "recommended" front spring was too hard for me, so I went "down" one spring-rate after a while.
New high-quality shocks will not only help the bike handle much better (after you get the spring rates, sag, and damping set up), but you'll be less fatigued while riding and your tires will last longer.
I have Ohlins front & rear, no regrets; one niggle was that the "recommended" front spring was too hard for me, so I went "down" one spring-rate after a while.
slime
New member
I wish mine were a little stiffer, but to be fair covid has added at least 25 pounds to the suspension..
96 R1100RT new shocks
At 45K on the clock of my 96RT, The OEM shocks were clapped out. Spent the $1200 for a set of HyperPro's. Amazing improvement, the entire bike smoothed out, handled much better, was more comfortable. Best bang for the bucks IMHO. They come with a coupon for free 1st rebuild. Only been on the bike for 10K with no noticeable drop off in performance.
At 45K on the clock of my 96RT, The OEM shocks were clapped out. Spent the $1200 for a set of HyperPro's. Amazing improvement, the entire bike smoothed out, handled much better, was more comfortable. Best bang for the bucks IMHO. They come with a coupon for free 1st rebuild. Only been on the bike for 10K with no noticeable drop off in performance.
6322
Member
I have a '00 R1100RS, and changed out my originals for a set of Wilburs and would do it again in a second. The ride and handling are superb, far better than the factory suspension. I've got just over 115,000 miles on this bike and don't plan to part with it. It fits me and I don't see anything in the new line up that interests me. Regarding the expense, only you can decide. If you plan to get rid of it, get rid of it, but if you're gonna keep it take care of it and make it a joy to ride. Also agree that occaisonally you'll find them for sale used and most top end suspension is rebbuildable. Good luck with your project and let us know how you sort this one out. Take care,
gp
gp
In my case, I went down one spring on the rear. Cost was inconsequential.
One of my friends usually finds Ohlins shocks used and when he sells the bike (as he frequently does), he removes the Ohlins and sells them for about the same rate as he paid for them. These might be other considerations for you when buying the aftermarket suspension.
Possibly, another option: As previous replies have demonstrated, many are not satisfied with stock shocks. Some make the change early on. Thus ,there are OEM shocks with little use gathering dust. For my last bike, a KLR, I advertised for and found such an item when the original wore out. I bought it for a tiny fraction of aftermarket. I did decide to go with a stouter Progressive spring - about $80 at the time. I was happy with the result. Not everyone can benefit from or appreciate a Wilber of whatever. There are testimonials but never underestimate to placebo effect
I used to buy other riders' slightly used shocks but they usually seemed to be not so slightly used. That's the reason I went for aftermarket ones that could be rebuilt. Initially pricey, but we'll worth the expense for a better ride and a low cost rebuild.
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dduelin
Unregistered User
YSS is another new suspension alternative that Ted Porter's shop sells. YSS doesn't have a large selection of springs like Ohlins and Wilburs does but if your weight and riding style can be accommodated by available springs you can upgrade to new for less than $1000. YSS is way better than new or slightly used OEM and probably like night and day to what you have now. I outfitted my 14 year old R1200RT with YSS from the Beemer Shop and I'm very happy with the handling the new suspension provides.
That's good to hear... Appreciate your insight! I'm currently on the fence about picking up a lightly used (only 24k miles) set of front/rear shocks for not a lot of money (<$300) or getting a new set of YSS. I think I'll go the YSS route.
Cheers!
-Art
gregfeeler
Dances With Sheep
Calculate your ROI on repairs or upgrades
I keep my vehicles a long time, so when a big expense is required, the first questions I ask myself are do I like the vehicle and how long do I intend to keep it, or am I looking for an excuse to trade up? If I have no plans to sell it "soon", then I do an ROI on how long will it take to get the repair money back at the expected monthly payment of a replacement vehicle. The repair always wins that evaluation. In your case, $1,300 and figuring $300/mo. for a replacement vehicle payment you are at break even in 4.33 months. Or think of it as $108.33 a month for only a year. Plus, you will find a whole new bike with new (or rebuilt) top shelf suspension, and will like riding your bike all the more. That's how I think about these things.
As for suspension, I have used a YSS rear shock on a K75S and it was a major improvement. I also installed a HyperPro rear shock and the matching HyperPro front fork spring and oil kit on my K1, and that transformed the bike. I got both products from Tom Cutter (http://rubberchickenracinggarage.com/index.html) and he configured the shocks for the bike, my weight, and riding style. They were spot on, and the only question I had afterward was why didn't I do this sooner?
YMMV.
I keep my vehicles a long time, so when a big expense is required, the first questions I ask myself are do I like the vehicle and how long do I intend to keep it, or am I looking for an excuse to trade up? If I have no plans to sell it "soon", then I do an ROI on how long will it take to get the repair money back at the expected monthly payment of a replacement vehicle. The repair always wins that evaluation. In your case, $1,300 and figuring $300/mo. for a replacement vehicle payment you are at break even in 4.33 months. Or think of it as $108.33 a month for only a year. Plus, you will find a whole new bike with new (or rebuilt) top shelf suspension, and will like riding your bike all the more. That's how I think about these things.
As for suspension, I have used a YSS rear shock on a K75S and it was a major improvement. I also installed a HyperPro rear shock and the matching HyperPro front fork spring and oil kit on my K1, and that transformed the bike. I got both products from Tom Cutter (http://rubberchickenracinggarage.com/index.html) and he configured the shocks for the bike, my weight, and riding style. They were spot on, and the only question I had afterward was why didn't I do this sooner?
YMMV.
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