Looking to install Shorai

I'm finally retired and getting my old R100CS back to riding shape. I parked it in 2011 due to it not keeping battery charged even when ridden. I've got a higher output alternator ordered and says it's ok to use lithium ion batteries with it. I've run many of these in many bikes had excellent luck. For some reason the BMW crowd seems to hate them. I like them for the small size that doesn't have to be a puzzle to get in or out. The search engine doesn't seem to want to search it so I just figured I'd post and let someone guide me to the previous posts.

Look at the bottom of this thread and you will see an area that lists similar posts. You will find some good information there I suspect. Do not feel bad, the search engine on this forum is as unhelpful as they come.

And welcome to the forum!

Welcome to the forum! Type this into the google search box - site:forums.bmwmoa.org shorai.

akbeemer said:

Do not feel bad, the search engine on this forum is as unhelpful as they come.

And welcome to the forum!

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https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?75890-Do-you-ever-use-the-quot-Tag-Cloud-quot

“Try it. You might like it”.

OM

Hi stinky wheels, welcome to the forum! I am also relatively new, and when I saw your query into Shorai batteries it got my attention. I have been looking at them closely too, however I was concerned as lately they do not show the charger made by Shorai anymore on their website. I don’t think I would attempt any battery with lithium chemistry unless I had the dedicated type of charger that also does cell balancing when you plug it in. I emailed them on the Shohreh homepage, but I have not received an answer yet after two weeks.
I recently discovered the antigravity brand of lithium iron phosphate batteries, and they have something that Shorai does not, which is an internal battery management system that should automatically disconnect the battery in the case of an overcharge or undervolt situation to protect it. As you probably know, the airheads often do not create much charging output until the RPMs are above 2000 or so. Additionally, my understanding is lithium batteries are sensitive to overcharging so with the old airheads we have to be really careful on too much current going into a Lithium battery.
I just posted a quarry about antigravity brand batteries a few posts away from yours to see if anyone has experience yet with this brand of battery. I’m hoping to get some replies so I can make an educated decision on whether or not to use them in my R90/6 powered Ural side car.
Congratulations on retirement! Hope you get lots of riding in now.

I've been using them with regular Battery Tender Jrs for years with no problem. I've only had one go bad and they replaced it no questions asked just under the 3 year period. I've been mostly messing with 90's to 2011 Ducs and Buells. Those old Ducs have a marginal charging system. I'm just hoping this new system on Aunt Bee doesn't strain the voltage regulator or battery. I'm looking forward to spring. I've been in Wyoming 40 years and hope these bikes spend less time on Tenders down on the other side of the prairie.

I'm confused!

I can get the appropriate maintenance free battery for for my /6 & R 100S that is an AGM for about $150, fits like a glove, can be trickle charged (successfully), they don't leak and works very well in the bike. They give you a little heads up when they are ready to die and they can be revived in a pinch. I've heard that the Lithium batteries drop out without an indication and pretty much leave you waiting for a trailer to get it home. Its great to try to improve or lighten the load but to what end or for what result. As a disclaimer I don't tour, do high mileage, load an old bike down for a rally but I do try to be practical when it comes to how the bike is used, ridden and what you expect from a 45 year old machine

69zeff65 said:

I can get the appropriate maintenance free battery for for my /6 & R 100S that is an AGM for about $150, fits like a glove, can be trickle charged (successfully), they don't leak and works very well in the bike. They give you a little heads up when they are ready to die and they can be revived in a pinch. I've heard that the Lithium batteries drop out without an indication and pretty much leave you waiting for a trailer to get it home. Its great to try to improve or lighten the load but to what end or for what result. As a disclaimer I don't tour, do high mileage, load an old bike down for a rally but I do try to be practical when it comes to how the bike is used, ridden and what you expect from a 45 year old machine

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The big plus is the difference in weight. You can save 8+ lbs. I can report that the difference is not particularly noticeable on an R1250R -- pushing it around and riding, that is. Very impressive during R&R.

69zeff65 said:

I can get the appropriate maintenance free battery for for my /6 & R 100S that is an AGM for about $150, fits like a glove, can be trickle charged (successfully), they don't leak and works very well in the bike. They give you a little heads up when they are ready to die and they can be revived in a pinch. I've heard that the Lithium batteries drop out without an indication and pretty much leave you waiting for a trailer to get it home. Its great to try to improve or lighten the load but to what end or for what result. As a disclaimer I don't tour, do high mileage, load an old bike down for a rally but I do try to be practical when it comes to how the bike is used, ridden and what you expect from a 45 year old machine

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I've also had good luck with AGMs. I just like a battery that doesn't fit like a glove, usually the batteries on most bikes barely squeeze past framerails, wires, cables, tubes. These Lithiums usually have 2 or 3 inches of extra room that you take up with padding and you can pick them out easier with my fat feeble hands. I'm hoping this bike will work with it.

ccolwell said:

The big plus is the difference in weight. You can save 8+ lbs. I can report that the difference is not particularly noticeable on an R1250R -- pushing it around and riding, that is. Very impressive during R&R.

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I like the light weight for picking them up. If I was worried about bike & rider weight however, I'd go on a diet.

I bought a Deka EXT16L battery made in Pennsylvania for my R100GS & it's a Glass Mat type. They are slightly smaller than original BMW batteries but they come with a plastic block to raise it up.

Good luck!

It has been posted that the lithium iron phosphate batteries don't fare to well in cold morning starts (sub 40's?) may want to chhck on that. Battery Tender and Noco both make tenders for this style of battery to also include AGM, Gel, and wet as well.

Darryl Cainey said:

I bought a Deka EXT16L battery made in Pennsylvania for my R100GS & it's a Glass Mat type. They are slightly smaller than original BMW batteries but they come with a plastic block to raise it up.

Good luck!

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That looks like a viable option. I'm not as worried about height as width. As long as I've owned this bike through numerous batteries, I have to roll the wires connectors out of the way and shimmy that thing through the frame rails on install and the removal is even worse. 2 inches narrower is kinda where I'd like to look. I'll start measuring and fiddling. I'm installing an Enduralast 400w alternator with adjustable regulator. They say these batteries void the warranty. Keep your fingers crossed for me. The old girl is getting the axle to axle treatment after being stored for 10+ years. The battery is pretty much the last thing. I have time and wrenches, ability is questionable though.

Hi Stinkywheels,
May I recommend if your CS doesn't already have it, installing a voltmeter to monitor voltage going to the battery. My understanding is that the LiFePO4 batteries can be damaged by too much voltage or too little during charging. Since you'll have an adjustable regulator, might be wise to monitor it to make sure you're not exceeding charging voltage. The Shorai website mentions the range for ideal charging. Unlike a lead acid battery, they say the battery is in need of cell balancing/charging if resting voltage is below 12.86V. Normal resting voltage should be around 14.4V.
And, charging voltage should not exceed about 14.8.
I did order an Antigravity brand LiFePO4 battery yesterday for my Ural sidecar rig w a R90/6 motor. In my case, a standard battery wont fit in the space where the battery normally goes, so space was the driving force in my case. I chose Antigravity brand over Shorai brand because of the onboard battery management system and they sell a dedicated charger (Ctek brand) that will properly charge and balance the cells.
Enjoy getting that R100 going again!

jsbrusso said:

Hi Stinkywheels,
May I recommend if your CS doesn't already have it, installing a voltmeter to monitor voltage going to the battery. My understanding is that the LiFePO4 batteries can be damaged by too much voltage or too little during charging. Since you'll have an adjustable regulator, might be wise to monitor it to make sure you're not exceeding charging voltage. The Shorai website mentions the range for ideal charging. Unlike a lead acid battery, they say the battery is in need of cell balancing/charging if resting voltage is below 12.86V. Normal resting voltage should be around 14.4V.
And, charging voltage should not exceed about 14.8.
I did order an Antigravity brand LiFePO4 battery yesterday for my Ural sidecar rig w a R90/6 motor. In my case, a standard battery wont fit in the space where the battery normally goes, so space was the driving force in my case. I chose Antigravity brand over Shorai brand because of the onboard battery management system and they sell a dedicated charger (Ctek brand) that will properly charge and balance the cells.
Enjoy getting that R100 going again!

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That's what I was wondering. My CS has the voltmeter, but it's accuracy seems questionable. I might go the AntiGravity route. I'll try and check the calibration of the voltmeter. The space is my driving force also. Just for convenience. The old charging system was the main reason this bike got parked quite a few years ago and I spent too much time messing with batteries. The standard size battery was such a fiddly PITA to mess with, and it cost me the stock seat from vapor BS eating the seat pan. I got a Corbin, but never liked it as much as the stock one. This time it's going to get done to my liking no matter the cost. I've renewed some old skills(?) and learned some new things. The last time there wasn't as much internet information. Good and bad, so much info and options that it can lead to lockup and brain overload.

I've always had lead-acid batteries on my /7 and never had any issues with venting of the battery. In all situations there was a tube running from the side down to a opening just below a cross member. There was no venting at the top of the battery. The only issue I've had with a battery like this is my R25/2 which is a vibration monster and it literally sloshed acid out the caps...the venting was through small holes in the cap on each cell.

As for the voltmeter, if you have a stock setup, then your meter reading is around 0.5v less than what's actually going on at the battery due to connections in the system. My aftermarket battery on the /7 is wired directly to the battery so there is no loss and I know what's going on there. But it's simple enough to take measurements under different situations at the battery terminals...the difference between that and your meter is something you just mentally add in when you look at the meter.

I can appreciate the light weight and smaller size of the high tech batteries, but the old heavy ones have always worked well for me as long as they are kept on a battery tender when not in use.

The large airhead batteries can be expensive, though, and possibly a little hard to find in fresh stock.
I’ve had very good experience with this vendor’s agm batteries:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/YTX30L-BS-...799027&hash=item3f7e951044:g:QRUAAOSwcGBasjb-

$80 delivered to your door and 850+ sold. Just tossing it out there for anyone reading this thread.