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Or... Doesn't one side of the HES tell the computer to fire the injectors? And the other side is the ignition...
 
You are correct, one for ignition the other for fuel. Since your HES is on the hit list to be changed if it is an old style, you would be ahead just to change it out.
While you are waiting for the HES to be returned from the rewiring, I would also pull the tank and remove the fuel pump assy and associated lines from the tank for inspection, I found that the U shaped hose on mine had a big crack in it, my bike had less than 24k at the time. Didn't think the break went completely through, but I was pretty happy to have found a protentional failure. May as well change the fuel filter while you are in there.
word of advise before you unbolt that plate, mark it in reference to it's location on the tank, makes it easier to get right orientation when trying to get it back into tank)
 
You are correct, one for ignition the other for fuel. Since your HES is on the hit list to be changed if it is an old style, you would be ahead just to change it out.
While you are waiting for the HES to be returned from the rewiring, I would also pull the tank and remove the fuel pump assy and associated lines from the tank for inspection, I found that the U shaped hose on mine had a big crack in it, my bike had less than 24k at the time. Didn't think the break went completely through, but I was pretty happy to have found a protentional failure. May as well change the fuel filter while you are in there.
word of advise before you unbolt that plate, mark it in reference to it's location on the tank, makes it easier to get right orientation when trying to get it back into tank)

THIS right here ^ ^ ^ !!!!

Send off the HES harness for rewire and testing, work on in-tank stuff. Re-assemble with good HES and ride!
 
Maybe you mean the Hall-Effect sensor? (actually two sensors on one plate)
A small coil of fine wire is wrapped around a small chunk of dense ferrite (iron); when a pole passes near enough to a magnet, physics (Grand Unified Theory) dictates that a small electrical charge is generated; that is passed to a transistor amplifier.
Just Google "Hall-effect sensor".

If somebody has dinked with the timing, just set it in the middle of the rotational slots and worry about it (not much, tho) after the bike is running.
 
Not well written... (on my end)

Don’t worry about “HAL”, auto correct does that.



GSAddict above has a great reputation for repairing/bring the wiring on a HES back to life.

OM

Wow.. sorry i did not write the question correctly at all...
Illinois BMW Riders have a pretty good pdf on how to build a tester that helps you with getting the timing set on your new HES part..

I have looked at the plans and 'think' I can to the testing with the tool. I am just uncertain on the building of the tool.


Someone above gave me a really good idea... to just send out my existing HES and have it rewired, while I do the fuel pump.

I think that is a great idea... 'GSAddict' ..

FYI.. we just got hit with an ice storm here in N Texas and my 'Dad Projects' are taking a second fiddle to kids, dogs, and Bride...
I am going to buy the parts for inside the tank ...

while I am at it.. I will take the HES off and get it ready for GSAddict.

Sorry I did not write the first one up better....

Andy
 
Wow.. sorry i did not write the question correctly at all...
.............................
Someone above gave me a really good idea... to just send out my existing HES and have it rewired, while I do the fuel pump.
I think that is a great idea... 'GSAddict' ..
...............................
while I am at it.. I will take the HES off and get it ready for GSAddict.
Andy

Before you loosen any of the screws that hold your HES plate to the bike, make scribe marks on the plate and the surround in at least two places. One on each side. After GSAddict repairs your HES wiring, you can put the plate back on the bike in the same position it was previously. Should not even need the timing box.
 
Marking the HES position prior to removing

Scribe a line on the Engine block right at the edge of the HES plate.
This allows for replacement with any rewired, new, used unit.


.
 

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  • Marking the Hall Sensor Position.jpg
    Marking the Hall Sensor Position.jpg
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Wow..

Before you loosen any of the screws that hold your HES plate to the bike, make scribe marks on the plate and the surround in at least two places. One on each side. After GSAddict repairs your HES wiring, you can put the plate back on the bike in the same position it was previously. Should not even need the timing box.

You Sir are a Scholar..

Thanks
 
Fuel Pump parts are in

Sorry....
Just got the fuel pump and other items for the fuel system.

I will be able to start that part of the work soon.

Andy
 
Parts are in and the tank is off

Hi..
I have the parts, or I think I do. The tank is 'mostly' empty now after using the siphon on it.
I will be removing the HAL unit tomorrow and then getting it off to be reworked.

Now that I am into the job it is looking like it will be fun.

I am NOT the original owner of the bike, so I am getting to know her.

One of the things I see, is that the wiring harness outter sheathing missing in many places. Doe anyone have advice on replacing it?
I have been using that black plastic stuff (with the split on the side) and putting that around some of the places that look the most vulnerable.
I have not resorted to the black tape, but might in some areas.

Andy
 
Was probably mentioned ... make index marks on fuel pump plate and tank and snap a pic to ensure proper alignment on re- install. Easy to go one hole either way . When cleaning up plate be careful to not lose that mark!
 
Was probably mentioned ... make index marks on fuel pump plate and tank and snap a pic to ensure proper alignment on re- install. Easy to go one hole either way . When cleaning up plate be careful to not lose that mark!

No problem...
I've been "re watching" content the outline and how to here

https://youtu.be/91Jf4-uBTTc

I think that it will work out fine...

I'm also going to pull the HAL plate to send out...

Andy
 
Pulled Pump and filter

Hi,

I have pulled out the pump and filter. the wiring running from the pigtail to the pump has no insulation on it that is worth speaking of. I am thinking that this may have been the problem. The two lines running back into the tank from the plate are disintegrating, and there is a bit of garbage in the tank,.

I have a new pump and some of the line I need to do this job but the wiring inside the tank is in need of replacement. 20210311_083934.jpg

I am going to go on a field trip for some more parts..

20210311_083854.jpg

Andy
 
Last edited:
Rewired

I have the fuel pump and wiring set to go.

The folks at my local BMW shop were very helpful. They looked at the assembly and told me that they think that I was the Ethanol fuel.

I found out that the plate assembly is not sold in component parts. Only as a whole thing.

The vent lines up to the tank were also "perished".

Good on the folks here at the shop, when I spoke about rewiring.. they said it should be doable... for me..
They even encouraged me to get auto parts hoses for the vent lines as they should be more suited to the ethanol environment.

I ended up getting everything that I thought I was going to buy at the BMW shop at Autozone .. other than some more clamps.. I am very happy with those folks.

I bought vent hoses, and a pigtail for an internal auto fuel pump to get wiring for the bike and soldered it up..

20210313_115704.jpg

I will put the bike all back together tomorrow

Andy
 
No Fuel, but pump is spinning now

Oh boy...

I have no leaks and can hear the pump spin up, but... do not see anything out of the injectors.

Going to regroup, and consider next steps.

Probably going to pull apart again..

Andy
 
New pump, filter and hoses?
Nothing out of the injectors when cranking?
Are you sure your pressure and return hoses are correct?

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 
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