• Welcome, Guest! We hope you enjoy the excellent technical knowledge, event information and discussions that the BMW MOA forum provides. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please click the 'Log in' button above and enter your BMW MOA username and password.

    If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the discounts and benefits the BMW MOA offers?

High Mileage Mainteinance

LesZman

New member
My 1990 K75RT now has 200000 mi and I am wondering if there are maintenance steps that should be taken now besides the level II schedule? I do the drive shaft splines on a 20000 mi schedule but I am wondering more about Clutch splines (never done), Valve check (done once @ 75000), and the Timing chain or tensioner. The bike runs well and started recently on a half a crank (instantly) after sitting for over 6 mo. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank You, Les

PS. Is there a printed or online schedule for high mileage maintence items?
 
Last edited:
My 1990 K75RT now has 200000 mi and I am wondering if there are maintenance steps that should be taken now besides the level II schedule? I do the drive shaft splines on a 20000 mi schedule but I am wondering more about Clutch splines (never done), Valve check (done once @ 75000), and the Timing chain or tensioner. The bike runs well and started recently on a half a crank (instantly) after sitting for over 6 mo. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank You, Les

I recommend you clean and lubricate the clutch splines as soon as convenient.

Manually check the front wheel bearings every time the wheel is off.
 
Les,

I'm sorry, it's kind of hard to take your request seriously.:dunno

You've only checked your valves once in 200,000 miles and only lube your splines every 20,000 miles and your bike is still running fine?????

And NOW your asking US for mainenance advice? Something tells me that you will continue with what has been successful for you in the past. Maybe we can get some tips on how to get the valves not to close up or how to get splines to not wear?

You must be extremely gentle on your bike.:thumb




:dance:dance:dance
 
Last edited:
My 1990 K75RT now has 200000 mi and I am wondering if there are maintenance steps that should be taken now besides the level II schedule? I do the drive shaft splines on a 20000 mi schedule but I am wondering more about Clutch splines (never done), Valve check (done once @ 75000), and the Timing chain or tensioner. The bike runs well and started recently on a half a crank (instantly) after sitting for over 6 mo. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank You, Les

PS. Is there a printed or online schedule for high mileage maintence items?

I agree with Lee that if you bike is really "fine" at 200k with only the maintenance you've described, then we all have something to learn from you. :brow. However, if it were me, here's what I would do: (with the general assumption of doing all the other logically related items at the same time)

1. Lube the clutch splines now.
The vast majority of K-bike riders have to do this about every 30,000 to 45,000 miles because of shifting problems, or they end up replacing a clutch disk and/or the transmission input shaft. This is a perfect time to lube both ends of your drive shaft. See #6 below.​

2. Check/replace clutch.
At that mileage you probably need a new disk at a minimum. While at it replace the clutch O-ring and rear main seal.​

3. Check valves, change plugs & air-filter.
These engines will go a very long time between valve adjustments but 150k as you describe would be a record.​

4. Check and/or replace cam chain and nylon tensioner guide.
BMW is far too aggressive in their change interval for the guide, but I would want to know it was still good at this mileage.​

5. Carefully check all hoses and rubber bits for deterioration.
Check the crank case breather hose. Test for air leaks around the bottom of the throttle body manifolds at the head, and the fuel injector O-rings (spray with starting fluid or carb cleaner lightly).​

6. Check and lube the splines on the *front* of the drive shaft, if you haven't been doing so.
While you are at it I would love to see good photos of your rear drive shaft splines and the rear drive input (pinon) splines. Most people who get long life from their drive shafts lube the rear splines at every rear tire change.​

7. Check the fork head bearing free play.
Read up on this process as you must release the steering damper internal to the fork head and then re-activate it. Personally, I would pull the fork head bearings appart for at least a re-greasing as they must be dry at this point.​

8. Check front wheel bearings for smoothness and tightness at *every* tire change.
I've never heard an "official" front wheel bearing life estimate, but 200k is getting your money's worth.​
 
Paul and Greg, Thank You very much for the very constructive maintenance suggestions Les.

Keep us posted with your maintenance and additional mileage on your bike. There is an MOA member I met at our rally in Gillette, WY who had 850,000 miles on his K75 at that time, so you have a lot more life left in your bike. :thumb
 
Keep us posted with your maintenance and additional mileage on your bike. There is an MOA member I met at our rally in Gillette, WY who had 850,000 miles on his K75 at that time, so you have a lot more life left in your bike. :thumb

Old Smokey died in an Interstate crash at 370,000 during a 49 state/ten day ride.
 
Assuming you're not, a regular check of the black vibration damper around the fuel pump is in order now and in the future.

I'd also run some Red Isoheet through the tank to pick up any water that may have accumulated from the 4000 gallons of gas that have run through the bike so far.
 
Assuming you're not, a regular check of the black vibration damper around the fuel pump is in order now and in the future.

I'd also run some Red Isoheet through the tank to pick up any water that may have accumulated from the 4000 gallons of gas that have run through the bike so far.

Excellent points. Another would be to check the alternator drive rubber idolators - the "monkey nuts".
 
I've got a 1990 K75RT with 50,000 miles now.
Those valves on my bike are very stable.
I checked them at 15,30, 45,000
They haven't moved more than .001
Beside the Ign. switch needing cleaning that has been one reliable/low maintenance machine!

Nick
 
Thanks Nick. Hey I was in Telluride last July. We were staying in the cabins at the Ouray KOA and did a big day loop to Durango. (Great Diner in the shopping center north of town), Oscar's. Over to Dolores, up through Rico ( I remember when the hot spring was just an old tub out in the middle of a field by the creek). Then over the hump to Telluride. Took the tram up to the top for something cheap to do. Swung around through Ridgeway and back to Ouray. Day before that we did the 62 - 145 -141 corridor up through Naturita, Gateway, to Whitewater. Les.
 
Congratulations on exceeding 200,000 miles

'85 K100RS owner w 203,000 miles.

I replaced my clutch disk at 160,000 probably didn't need to.

Replaced the clutch cable twice when it broke: Good idea to do it before the last thread up at the lever breaks.

Change oil and filter regularly so you don't get a spinning sprag on the starter engagement.

I put a different rear drive on at about 190,000.

Mine has a Z shaped hose that cracks and leaks to lean up above the rear throttle body.

Did the front wheel bearings once on noisy turning.

Did the head set bearings once, probably only needed to snug them up, that stops deceleration wobble around 40 mph.

My bike loved new BMW spark plugs.

Changed a front rotor that was too thin and then cracked slightly at one of the drilled holes. No problem, no front wheel lock up.

Happy riding many more miles.
 
The noted mileages in this thread, are really a testament to how well BMW engineered these machines. Wish they still did.
 
Regarding the clutch cable breakage: Cable life can be significantly prolonged by regular cleaning and re-lubrication of the barrel that attaches the top end of the cable to the lever. The barrel is intended to rotate in the hole in the lever, keeping the cable end straight as the lever is pulled. When the barrel sticks then the cable flexes each time the lever is pulled. It is this flexing which over time causes the strands to break, one-by-one, until the last one breaks. Trying to ride home without a working clutch can be exciting. And, usually when the cable breaks while riding the barrel falls out and gets lost on or beside the road.
 
Regarding the clutch cable breakage: Cable life can be significantly prolonged by regular cleaning and re-lubrication of the barrel that attaches the top end of the cable to the lever. The barrel is intended to rotate in the hole in the lever, keeping the cable end straight as the lever is pulled. When the barrel sticks then the cable flexes each time the lever is pulled. It is this flexing which over time causes the strands to break, one-by-one, until the last one breaks. Trying to ride home without a working clutch can be exciting. And, usually when the cable breaks while riding the barrel falls out and gets lost on or beside the road.

Hi Paul,

What lube do you use on the barrel? I've had three broken cables between my two K75's. I now feel proficient at shifting without clutching when needed (as long as I'm not stopped!). Truth be told you can usually feel when the cable is starting to fray and avoid the no-clutch challenge.
 
Hi Paul,

What lube do you use on the barrel? I've had three broken cables between my two K75's. I now feel proficient at shifting without clutching when needed (as long as I'm not stopped!). Truth be told you can usually feel when the cable is starting to fray and avoid the no-clutch challenge.

I have used several greases. Nothing really special. Currently I have a sticky green grease in a small grease gun for general purposes. Look at the small grease cylinders - about an inch in diameter and 6 inches long at an auto parts store. The Sta-Lube brand is pretty good and any grease with an EP (extreme presssure) rating would be good. The key is to refresh it at least once a year if not more often.
 
Hi Paul,

What lube do you use on the barrel? I've had three broken cables between my two K75's. I now feel proficient at shifting without clutching when needed (as long as I'm not stopped!). Truth be told you can usually feel when the cable is starting to fray and avoid the no-clutch challenge.

I'll jump in here for a moment. I check and lube all cables every 6,000 miles or once a year, and clean both cable ends and lube them with wheel bearing grease. In that process I check that the lever end of the cable moves very smoothly as the lever pivots with no catching or hanging. If needed, I take off the lever and smooth the barrel hole with a piece of rolled up fine grit sandpaper so it has a smooth surface. Since starting this routine many years ago I've never had to practice my clutchless shifting technique. :D
 
Clutch Cable Life: K bikes

While riding back from Maine, I stopped in Max BMW in NH. My clutch cable round top end knub had popped out of the lever once. When I asked their parts counter about it, they took a quick look at my '85K100RS w high miles and noticed that a felt piece was missing from this area.

It is a felt cylinder about 1/4" in diameter, with a step and about an inch long, I bought one they had in stock, slipped it on and learned.

Often felt is used in machines to hold oil and apply lube for months/years as long as the felt doesn't dry out. I think it's there to do this.

Some of the details could be off as it was 10 or so years ago.
 
While riding back from Maine, I stopped in Max BMW in NH. My clutch cable round top end knub had popped out of the lever once. When I asked their parts counter about it, they took a quick look at my '85K100RS w high miles and noticed that a felt piece was missing from this area.

It is a felt cylinder about 1/4" in diameter, with a step and about an inch long, I bought one they had in stock, slipped it on and learned.

Often felt is used in machines to hold oil and apply lube for months/years as long as the felt doesn't dry out. I think it's there to do this.

Some of the details could be off as it was 10 or so years ago.

That felt piece may lube the end of the cable but it is the drum on the end and the socket that it fits into that need to be cleaned and lubricated.
 
I'll jump in here for a moment. I check and lube all cables every 6,000 miles or once a year, and clean both cable ends and lube them with wheel bearing grease. In that process I check that the lever end of the cable moves very smoothly as the lever pivots with no catching or hanging. If needed, I take off the lever and smooth the barrel hole with a piece of rolled up fine grit sandpaper so it has a smooth surface. Since starting this routine many years ago I've never had to practice my clutchless shifting technique. :D

I assume you mean lube the just ends? I thought these cables were Teflon coated on the inside, so any petroleum lube would destroy that lining?

https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?95882-Cable-Lubrication
 
Back
Top