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Thread: High Mileage Mainteinance

  1. #1
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    High Mileage Mainteinance

    My 1990 K75RT now has 200000 mi and I am wondering if there are maintenance steps that should be taken now besides the level II schedule? I do the drive shaft splines on a 20000 mi schedule but I am wondering more about Clutch splines (never done), Valve check (done once @ 75000), and the Timing chain or tensioner. The bike runs well and started recently on a half a crank (instantly) after sitting for over 6 mo. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank You, Les

    PS. Is there a printed or online schedule for high mileage maintence items?
    Last edited by LesZman; 01-18-2021 at 01:47 PM. Reason: additional question

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by LesZman View Post
    My 1990 K75RT now has 200000 mi and I am wondering if there are maintenance steps that should be taken now besides the level II schedule? I do the drive shaft splines on a 20000 mi schedule but I am wondering more about Clutch splines (never done), Valve check (done once @ 75000), and the Timing chain or tensioner. The bike runs well and started recently on a half a crank (instantly) after sitting for over 6 mo. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank You, Les
    I recommend you clean and lubricate the clutch splines as soon as convenient.

    Manually check the front wheel bearings every time the wheel is off.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  3. #3
    3 Red Bricks
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    Les,

    I'm sorry, it's kind of hard to take your request seriously.

    You've only checked your valves once in 200,000 miles and only lube your splines every 20,000 miles and your bike is still running fine?????

    And NOW your asking US for mainenance advice? Something tells me that you will continue with what has been successful for you in the past. Maybe we can get some tips on how to get the valves not to close up or how to get splines to not wear?

    You must be extremely gentle on your bike.




    Last edited by 98lee; 01-18-2021 at 08:39 PM.
    LONG MAY YOUR BRICK FLY!

    Ride Safe, Ride Far, Ride Often

    Lee Fulton Forum Moderator
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  4. #4
    Dances With Sheep GREGFEELER's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LesZman View Post
    My 1990 K75RT now has 200000 mi and I am wondering if there are maintenance steps that should be taken now besides the level II schedule? I do the drive shaft splines on a 20000 mi schedule but I am wondering more about Clutch splines (never done), Valve check (done once @ 75000), and the Timing chain or tensioner. The bike runs well and started recently on a half a crank (instantly) after sitting for over 6 mo. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank You, Les

    PS. Is there a printed or online schedule for high mileage maintence items?
    I agree with Lee that if you bike is really "fine" at 200k with only the maintenance you've described, then we all have something to learn from you. . However, if it were me, here's what I would do: (with the general assumption of doing all the other logically related items at the same time)

    1. Lube the clutch splines now.
    The vast majority of K-bike riders have to do this about every 30,000 to 45,000 miles because of shifting problems, or they end up replacing a clutch disk and/or the transmission input shaft. This is a perfect time to lube both ends of your drive shaft. See #6 below.

    2. Check/replace clutch.
    At that mileage you probably need a new disk at a minimum. While at it replace the clutch O-ring and rear main seal.

    3. Check valves, change plugs & air-filter.
    These engines will go a very long time between valve adjustments but 150k as you describe would be a record.

    4. Check and/or replace cam chain and nylon tensioner guide.
    BMW is far too aggressive in their change interval for the guide, but I would want to know it was still good at this mileage.

    5. Carefully check all hoses and rubber bits for deterioration.
    Check the crank case breather hose. Test for air leaks around the bottom of the throttle body manifolds at the head, and the fuel injector O-rings (spray with starting fluid or carb cleaner lightly).

    6. Check and lube the splines on the *front* of the drive shaft, if you haven't been doing so.
    While you are at it I would love to see good photos of your rear drive shaft splines and the rear drive input (pinon) splines. Most people who get long life from their drive shafts lube the rear splines at every rear tire change.

    7. Check the fork head bearing free play.
    Read up on this process as you must release the steering damper internal to the fork head and then re-activate it. Personally, I would pull the fork head bearings appart for at least a re-greasing as they must be dry at this point.

    8. Check front wheel bearings for smoothness and tightness at *every* tire change.
    I've never heard an "official" front wheel bearing life estimate, but 200k is getting your money's worth.
    Greg Feeler
    Ambassador & 2022 BMW MOA Rally Co-Chair
    1972 R75/5, 1990 K75, 1990 K1, 1992 K75S, 2003 K1200RS

  5. #5
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    Paul and Greg, Thank You very much for the very constructive maintenance suggestions Les.

  6. #6
    Dances With Sheep GREGFEELER's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LesZman View Post
    Paul and Greg, Thank You very much for the very constructive maintenance suggestions Les.
    Keep us posted with your maintenance and additional mileage on your bike. There is an MOA member I met at our rally in Gillette, WY who had 850,000 miles on his K75 at that time, so you have a lot more life left in your bike.
    Greg Feeler
    Ambassador & 2022 BMW MOA Rally Co-Chair
    1972 R75/5, 1990 K75, 1990 K1, 1992 K75S, 2003 K1200RS

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by GREGFEELER View Post
    Keep us posted with your maintenance and additional mileage on your bike. There is an MOA member I met at our rally in Gillette, WY who had 850,000 miles on his K75 at that time, so you have a lot more life left in your bike.
    Old Smokey died in an Interstate crash at 370,000 during a 49 state/ten day ride.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  8. #8
    Registered User drneo66's Avatar
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    Assuming you're not, a regular check of the black vibration damper around the fuel pump is in order now and in the future.

    I'd also run some Red Isoheet through the tank to pick up any water that may have accumulated from the 4000 gallons of gas that have run through the bike so far.
    Current: 2007 BMW R1200RT, 2013 F800GS
    Former: 1995 BMW K75S, 2009 BMW G650GS
    MOA Member #:150400, IBA#: 37558

  9. #9
    Dances With Sheep GREGFEELER's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by drneo66 View Post
    Assuming you're not, a regular check of the black vibration damper around the fuel pump is in order now and in the future.

    I'd also run some Red Isoheet through the tank to pick up any water that may have accumulated from the 4000 gallons of gas that have run through the bike so far.
    Excellent points. Another would be to check the alternator drive rubber idolators - the "monkey nuts".
    Greg Feeler
    Ambassador & 2022 BMW MOA Rally Co-Chair
    1972 R75/5, 1990 K75, 1990 K1, 1992 K75S, 2003 K1200RS

  10. #10
    Nick Kennedy
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    I've got a 1990 K75RT with 50,000 miles now.
    Those valves on my bike are very stable.
    I checked them at 15,30, 45,000
    They haven't moved more than .001
    Beside the Ign. switch needing cleaning that has been one reliable/low maintenance machine!

    Nick

  11. #11
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    Thanks Nick. Hey I was in Telluride last July. We were staying in the cabins at the Ouray KOA and did a big day loop to Durango. (Great Diner in the shopping center north of town), Oscar's. Over to Dolores, up through Rico ( I remember when the hot spring was just an old tub out in the middle of a field by the creek). Then over the hump to Telluride. Took the tram up to the top for something cheap to do. Swung around through Ridgeway and back to Ouray. Day before that we did the 62 - 145 -141 corridor up through Naturita, Gateway, to Whitewater. Les.

  12. #12
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    Congratulations on exceeding 200,000 miles

    '85 K100RS owner w 203,000 miles.

    I replaced my clutch disk at 160,000 probably didn't need to.

    Replaced the clutch cable twice when it broke: Good idea to do it before the last thread up at the lever breaks.

    Change oil and filter regularly so you don't get a spinning sprag on the starter engagement.

    I put a different rear drive on at about 190,000.

    Mine has a Z shaped hose that cracks and leaks to lean up above the rear throttle body.

    Did the front wheel bearings once on noisy turning.

    Did the head set bearings once, probably only needed to snug them up, that stops deceleration wobble around 40 mph.

    My bike loved new BMW spark plugs.

    Changed a front rotor that was too thin and then cracked slightly at one of the drilled holes. No problem, no front wheel lock up.

    Happy riding many more miles.

  13. #13
    The noted mileages in this thread, are really a testament to how well BMW engineered these machines. Wish they still did.
    2000 R1100 RS
    2009 Jaguar XK

  14. #14
    Regarding the clutch cable breakage: Cable life can be significantly prolonged by regular cleaning and re-lubrication of the barrel that attaches the top end of the cable to the lever. The barrel is intended to rotate in the hole in the lever, keeping the cable end straight as the lever is pulled. When the barrel sticks then the cable flexes each time the lever is pulled. It is this flexing which over time causes the strands to break, one-by-one, until the last one breaks. Trying to ride home without a working clutch can be exciting. And, usually when the cable breaks while riding the barrel falls out and gets lost on or beside the road.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  15. #15
    PeteG
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    Quote Originally Posted by PGlaves View Post
    Regarding the clutch cable breakage: Cable life can be significantly prolonged by regular cleaning and re-lubrication of the barrel that attaches the top end of the cable to the lever. The barrel is intended to rotate in the hole in the lever, keeping the cable end straight as the lever is pulled. When the barrel sticks then the cable flexes each time the lever is pulled. It is this flexing which over time causes the strands to break, one-by-one, until the last one breaks. Trying to ride home without a working clutch can be exciting. And, usually when the cable breaks while riding the barrel falls out and gets lost on or beside the road.
    Hi Paul,

    What lube do you use on the barrel? I've had three broken cables between my two K75's. I now feel proficient at shifting without clutching when needed (as long as I'm not stopped!). Truth be told you can usually feel when the cable is starting to fray and avoid the no-clutch challenge.

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