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Considering adding a 92 K75

rangemaster

rangemaster

New member
In looking at some local ‘targets of opportunity’ I found a 1992 K75 with about 57K miles. Very clean, obviously garage-kept and on its 3rd owner, a guy in his 70’s thats hanging it up.

I went to look at it; wiring, hoses, corrosion check, brake pads/tires, oil all look good. Then the owner went to start it.

It immediately exhibited the ‘welded starter relay contacts’ syndrome the K75/100 is famous for; he disconnected the battery as quickly as he could, getting a slight burn on his fingers in the process. I felt bad for him.

I know what the problem is and how to easily fix it, and I have a spare relay we can try to get it running so I can test ride it, but have a question regarding value.

He was initially asking $2500; him not being a ‘BMW guy’ I’m not sure what else he did/didn’t do while he’s owned it.

I’m on my 3rd BMW (having had K1600 and 2 Hexhead R1200RTs) and do all my own maintenance; I know if I bought this I wouldn’t trust any records and do oil/brake flush, rear end lube/splines and valve check and go thru the entire bike.

Provided it starts/runs/rides OK I was thinking of offering $1900 with a little room to go up.

aa07b8694d0fcd69815e7536f028b2a8.jpg



Just looking for some input from the collective wisdom I’ve found to be so valuable on this forum.



Ride safe!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Lee said:
Can you comfortably ride a low seat model?
Click to expand...

Comfort is a relative term lol... I use a BMW Comfort Seat (German oxymoron) which is low on my 09RT with no problem...

This K75 would be used for short(-ish) local rides as the R12 is my long-distance ride and for my wife to ride as well.

I’ll know more if we can get it started for a test ride...are their higher seats available?


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My wisdom is worth what you pay for it... nothing ;)

From what I see:
Good:
- Everyone loves a K75
- Lots of info/parts out there to bring it back to 100%
- Engine guards
- "T" model is easy to work on
- Original BMW bag and tank cover
- Possibly upgraded rear shock?

Potentially bad, depending on use:
- Low seat model (but many seat options, both used and new, are available to bring it up to a standard height)
- City cases
- No ABS
- Start relay and probably battery
- It's an older bike
 
drneo66 said:
My wisdom is worth what you pay for it... nothing ;)

From what I see:
Good:
- Everyone loves a K75
- Lots of info/parts out there to bring it back to 100%
- Engine guards
- "T" model is easy to work on
- Original BMW bag and tank cover
- Possibly upgraded rear shock?

Potentially bad, depending on use:
- Low seat model (but many seat options, both used and new, are available to bring it up to a standard height)
- City cases
- No ABS
- Start relay and probably battery
- It's an older bike
Click to expand...

That matches what I’m thinking...btw, forgot to mention he has a bunch of spares from another (same year) bike that includes a radiator and fan, complete wiring harness, a starter and some other bits that could be useful.

The city cases aren’t a bad thing for me due to the type of short trips I’d use this on for...and they are in good shape.

I would likely replace ALL the relays and the battery...even considering doing the ‘starter solenoid mod’ I’ve been reading about.

Older bikes don’t spook me...besides, it’s not like I don’t have three other motorcycles in my garage LOL.

Thanks for the input.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
I don't know, but based on the pictures I'd say if your starts/runs/rides test goes well, $2500 sounds like a pretty fair price unless you uncover some other problem.
 
jad01 said:
I don't know, but based on the pictures I'd say if your starts/runs/rides test goes well, $2500 sounds like a pretty fair price unless you uncover some other problem.
Click to expand...

True...IF it started and ran from the git-go; when he had the starter relay failure he told me “well if you buy it right now I’ll refund you whatever it cost to take it to a BMW dealer and have it fixed”.

So if I go back to his house and fix the starter problem just to get it going for a test ride that goes into the calculations for the negotiation.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
So, the battery was low in charge. Common with parked bikes. It needs a new relay. Not a big deal. Many would say just thump the relay and it will be fine.

It is pretty easy to make a seat taller compared to making one shorter. Any decent seat builder can add the foam needed to make it taller.
 
It LOOKS super clean, BUT the thing to be cautious about is that the bike has been sitting for probably a long time what with Covid and his decision to quit riding (people don't just quit riding one day and sell their bike the next day). The bike usually sits for a year or four until they finally admit to themselves that they aren't going to be getting any younger or in shape or what ever it was that caused them to ride less and less.

You need to ask the owner when the bike was last actively being ridden. When was the last time the tank was filled.

The problem with the bike can be the fuel left in the tank during the time of inactivity, if this time is a year or so. The old fuel can break down and turn to a solvent that disolves the rubber fuel pump vibration damper inside the tank. It can coat the inside of the tank with this gunk. It also puddles directly below the pump inlet so, when you next try to start it, the pump sucks the gunk into the pump (which can kill it) or pumps it into the injectors which can plug or partially plug them.

When considering buying an early K that you suspect has not run in quite some time, it is best to inspect the tank for two things, the condition of the damper and the condition of the tank itself. While the tank is made of aluminum, and doesn't rust, it will corrode. You need to inspect the lower seams for signs of leaks. Run you fingers along the lower seam in the area at and to the rear of the rear corners of the radiator shroud. You will have to pull away or remove the tank bra. Feel for wet or soft paint.

To inspect the inside of the tank, open filler cap, remove the four phillips screws that hold the cap assembly to the tank. CAUTION! These screws can be stuck. You need to find a screwdriver that fits well and put your full body weight on the screwdriver to prevent the driver from stripping the head of the screw. Remove cap assembly and inspect interior. The tank is bare aluminum, so the interior SHOULD be bright, shiny silver. If it has a browish tinge,the damper is starting to dissolve. You can run your finger against the damper. You can see about 1/4" of it between the white plastic pump holder and the shelf that the pump is mounted on. It should be hard, like a tire, with no stain coming off on your finger.

Look for corrosion (grayish discoloration and roughness) at the seams at the low spot just to the rear of the pump shelf. Look at the low spot on the left and right side of the inside of the tank.

While the cap is off, if the tank looks good inside, the fuel smells right, and the battery is fully charged you can see if the pump works. Preferrably, you don't want it to start because you run the risk of sucking up any unseen dissolved damper debris into the pump. The pump only runs when the starter button is pushed and for a second or two after and when the rpm is over 700 rpm (indicating bike is running). Turn on ignition and put kill switch to run. Quickly tap and release starter button. Listen for pump whirr for a second after you release button. If bike starts, hit kill switch immediately.

Other than tank corrosion, a leak, or excessive gunk in the tank, it can all be easily corrected, if you address it BEFORE you insist on starting it. Drain tank, remove pump and filter, bench test pump, inspect vibration damper, replace fuel filter, clean tank interior with special attention to the area beneath the pump.
Put in fresh gas and FULLY charge the battery. Then you can safely consider trying to start the bike.

So now you have a decision to make. If you feel the fuel system is clean and the damper is not dissolving, starting the bike will probably not do any harm. If there is a puddle of dissolved damper below the pump that could be sucked into the fuel system, it could cause extra time and money to get the bike running properly.

I would have no qualms buying that bike without test riding. It looks to be very well cared for. It doesn't have enough miles to be too worried about valve adjustment being too far out to save and odds are the splines are still ok.

One other comment, be aware that that is a low seat model. Be sure that the ergonomics of the low seat work for you. Changing a low seat bike to a standard seat model can be quite expensive because of all the parts involved (particularly sourcing battery covers in the correct color and condition).


:dance:dance:dance
 
98lee said:
It LOOKS super clean, BUT the thing to be cautious about is that the bike has been sitting for probably a long time what with Covid and his decision to quit riding (people don't just quit riding one day and sell their bike the next day). The bike usually sits for a year or four until they finally admit to themselves that they aren't going to be getting any younger or in shape or what ever it was that caused them to ride less and less.

You need to ask the owner when the bike was last actively being ridden. When was the last time the tank was filled.

The problem with the bike can be the fuel left in the tank during the time of inactivity, if this time is a year or so. The old fuel can break down and turn to a solvent that disolves the rubber fuel pump vibration damper inside the tank. It can coat the inside of the tank with this gunk. It also puddles directly below the pump inlet so, when you next try to start it, the pump sucks the gunk into the pump (which can kill it) or pumps it into the injectors which can plug or partially plug them.

When considering buying an early K that you suspect has not run in quite some time, it is best to inspect the tank for two things, the condition of the damper and the condition of the tank itself. While the tank is made of aluminum, and doesn't rust, it will corrode. You need to inspect the lower seams for signs of leaks. Run you fingers along the lower seam in the area at and to the rear of the rear corners of the radiator shroud. You will have to pull away or remove the tank bra. Feel for wet or soft paint.

To inspect the inside of the tank, open filler cap, remove the four phillips screws that hold the cap assembly to the tank. CAUTION! These screws can be stuck. You need to find a screwdriver that fits well and put your full body weight on the screwdriver to prevent the driver from stripping the head of the screw. Remove cap assembly and inspect interior. The tank is bare aluminum, so the interior SHOULD be bright, shiny silver. If it has a browish tinge,the damper is starting to dissolve. You can run your finger against the damper. You can see about 1/4" of it between the white plastic pump holder and the shelf that the pump is mounted on. It should be hard, like a tire, with no stain coming off on your finger.

Look for corrosion (grayish discoloration and roughness) at the seams at the low spot just to the rear of the pump shelf. Look at the low spot on the left and right side of the inside of the tank.

While the cap is off, if the tank looks good inside, the fuel smells right, and the battery is fully charged you can see if the pump works. Preferrably, you don't want it to start because you run the risk of sucking up any unseen dissolved damper debris into the pump. The pump only runs when the starter button is pushed and for a second or two after and when the rpm is over 700 rpm (indicating bike is running). Turn on ignition and put kill switch to run. Quickly tap and release starter button. Listen for pump whirr for a second after you release button. If bike starts, hit kill switch immediately.

Other than tank corrosion, a leak, or excessive gunk in the tank, it can all be easily corrected, if you address it BEFORE you insist on starting it. Drain tank, remove pump and filter, bench test pump, inspect vibration damper, replace fuel filter, clean tank interior with special attention to the area beneath the pump.
Put in fresh gas and FULLY charge the battery. Then you can safely consider trying to start the bike.

So now you have a decision to make. If you feel the fuel system is clean and the damper is not dissolving, starting the bike will probably not do any harm. If there is a puddle of dissolved damper below the pump that could be sucked into the fuel system, it could cause extra time and money to get the bike running properly.

I would have no qualms buying that bike without test riding. It looks to be very well cared for. It doesn't have enough miles to be too worried about valve adjustment being too far out to save and odds are the splines are still ok.

One other comment, be aware that that is a low seat model. Be sure that the ergonomics of the low seat work for you. Changing a low seat bike to a standard seat model can be quite expensive because of all the parts involved (particularly sourcing battery covers in the correct color and condition).


:dance:dance:dance
Click to expand...

98lee:

Good input.

I went over there again today; last fuel was put in 6 wks ago, last started and ridden 4 weeks ago. I examined the inside of the fuel tank; no sign of discoloration, contamination or leaks and the buffer checked OK.

I replaced the starter relay (yup, the old one was stuck). The new one immediately welded itself shut on the next try; quickly disconnecting the battery I then tested the new relay (stuck).

I then (just because) I tested the kill switch and starter button with a multimeter...all good.

Tapped the relay and got it unstuck; on the next test the fuel pump runs when the button is pressed, but the starter does not turn.

Battery voltage is good (13.9V)...starter relay engages and voltage gets to the starter but does not turn.

My latest thought is the starter motor is shot...it was failing and finally gave up and that (not the battery) was the primary cause of the high current that took out the relay...and the second one. I think the excessive current draw from the (suspected) faulty starter was the culprit, not the battery.

I also found a very stiff cooling fan while I was looking things over.

As it sits now it could be a bit of a winter project if I make him an offer...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
All easily fixed for a bit over $100 and some "bonding time" with the bike. That would not be a deal breaker, just a negotiate opportunity.:dunno



:dance:dance:dance
 
Unless it is new I would not trust that 13+v battery reading. A no-load voltage and a starter loaded voltage can have no meaningful relationship to each other with an old battery.

Try it with a jump from a good vehicle or a lithium ion starter pack.
 
Do you know why he has a spare harness, starter and fan that you say seems stuck? Someone may have looked at this already. Good luck, it looks nice.
 
If the fan is of the original stock type, then they are stiff to turn, not like a spiral fan. I wouldn't be afraid of buying the bike and because it has some issues, that will help to negotiate the price lower. Any old bike, is going to have some gremlins somewhere, especially electrical and if you really like the bike overall, and if you are handy, need a project then buy it.

As to price. When I see somebody asking $ 2500, that tells me he wants $ 2000. Seeing as it has some obvious issues and you can't get it to run then you really can't access the overall drive train. That really hammers the price and you have to expect to spend in the area of up to $ 1000. to get it back on the road. If you do the work yourself. I'm including tires and all the routine maintenance you are going to have to do. So if it was me I would want to buy that bike for a price closer to $ 1000. We all know if he is telling you to take it to a dealer and have them fix it, if he can find one that will work on that old bike, that $ 1000. isn't going to cover the cost to put it back on the road. That's my two cents on buying older, non running bikes. My cardinal rule is to pay no more that $ 1. per cc for a non running bike, with complete plastics.

I see examples of this bike selling on this site for an asking price of $ 1500. I have no idea of their condition, but assume they run. When buying stuff like bikes, one has to separate the heart from the head.
 
junkjohn said:
Do you know why he has a spare harness, starter and fan that you say seems stuck? Someone may have looked at this already. Good luck, it looks nice.
Click to expand...
The spares came from a riding buddy of the seller...had the same bike, but it was totaled when hit while parked (and thankfully not with the rider on it).

cycleman2 said:
If the fan is of the original stock type, then they are stiff to turn, not like a spiral fan. I wouldn't be afraid of buying the bike and because it has some issues, that will help to negotiate the price lower. Any old bike, is going to have some gremlins somewhere, especially electrical and if you really like the bike overall, and if you are handy, need a project then buy it.

As to price. When I see somebody asking $ 2500, that tells me he wants $ 2000. Seeing as it has some obvious issues and you can't get it to run then you really can't access the overall drive train. That really hammers the price and you have to expect to spend in the area of up to $ 1000. to get it back on the road. If you do the work yourself. I'm including tires and all the routine maintenance you are going to have to do. So if it was me I would want to buy that bike for a price closer to $ 1000. We all know if he is telling you to take it to a dealer and have them fix it, if he can find one that will work on that old bike, that $ 1000. isn't going to cover the cost to put it back on the road. That's my two cents on buying older, non running bikes. My cardinal rule is to pay no more that $ 1. per cc for a non running bike, with complete plastics.

I see examples of this bike selling on this site for an asking price of $ 1500. I have no idea of their condition, but assume they run. When buying stuff like bikes, one has to separate the heart from the head.
Click to expand...

I agree...not afraid to dive in and resurrect this brick, just trying to decide a) how much time I’d have in it and b) how much to offer if I want to do this.

The collective opinions offered here indicate it’s likely a good project bike and I’ve done all the rebuilds/farkling I need on my two Hexheads (‘06 and ‘09); a clean K75 brought back and made rideable sounds like my next project. If I decide to go down this route I have no problem with it sitting in my shop while I go completely thru it.

Interesting $1/cc rule...never thought of it that way.

Thanks to all that have responded; if the owner swaps the starter and gets it running I’ll likely negotiate a price around $18-2100; if not I might just bid $1K and cart it home if he really wants it gone.


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rangemaster said:
...The city cases aren’t a bad thing for me due to the type of short trips I’d use this on for...and they are in good shape..../QUOTE]


If you get this bike and decide you aren't going to use the City Cases, let me know. I'd make you a fair offer for them. :brow
Click to expand...
 
cycleman2 said:
If the fan is of the original stock type, then they are stiff to turn, not like a spiral fan.
Click to expand...

This is a new idea to me. I have had three K75s (have two them now), all with the stock fan and the only time a fan was "stiff" was when the front bearing was dried or contaminated. After a good lubrication the fans spun easily to the touch for me.
 
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