• Welcome, Guest! We hope you enjoy the excellent technical knowledge, event information and discussions that the BMW MOA forum provides. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please click the 'Log in' button above and enter your BMW MOA username and password.

    If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the discounts and benefits the BMW MOA offers?

  • Beginning April 1st, and running through April 30th, there is a new 2024 BMW MOA Election discussion area within The Club section of the forum. Within this forum area is also a sticky post that provides the ground rules for participating in the Election forum area. Also, the candidates statements are provided. Please read before joining the conversation, because the rules are very specific to maintain civility.

    The Election forum is here: Election Forum

Preventative maintenance?

georgebarthel

New member
Hello all,

I have an '82 R100RT on the lift. It's likely to stay there for a period longer than I prefer. The time to spend getting it running and rebuilt is always longer than one anticipates as we all know! I give myself a conservative 6-12months.

Is there anything that one might do in order to keep the the pistons comfortable in the cylinders? With other bikes in my past, the pistons were oriented vertically. Thus a tiny amount of oil into the cylinder from the plug opening was logical. With the boxer orientation, I was wondering of the same held true??

Thanks in advance all!
-GB
 

Attachments

  • RT 1.jpg
    RT 1.jpg
    357.8 KB · Views: 201
I've heard that the cylinders should be put at TDC just to help from allowing a lot of moist air to get onto the cylinder walls. I suppose you could spritz some oil in through the spark plug hole at some intervals. Of course, that long, you should put some fuel stabilizer in and likely drain the float bowls.
 
Life...

It's probably life, not the build, that might extend the schedule.....which I think most of us can relate to. I know I certainly can!

ECJ
 
for sure understand about that life stuff...........takes forever the older you get so GET ON IT..........:laugh

Doesnt hurt a thing to squirt a bit of oil in the plug opening and then roll over the engine by turning the rear wheel a couple of turns with the trans in 4th or 5th............GOOD LUCK....
 
I've heard that the cylinders should be put at TDC just to help from allowing a lot of moist air to get onto the cylinder walls. I suppose you could spritz some oil in through the spark plug hole at some intervals. Of course, that long, you should put some fuel stabilizer in and likely drain the float bowls.

Thank you, much appreciated. The carbs will be getting a full detail, they're already drained. The tank as well will need a refresh. Planning on a full treatment from these fine fellows. http://gastanklining.com/index.html
 
for sure understand about that life stuff...........takes forever the older you get so GET ON IT..........:laugh

Doesnt hurt a thing to squirt a bit of oil in the plug opening and then roll over the engine by turning the rear wheel a couple of turns with the trans in 4th or 5th............GOOD LUCK....

Thank you Dennis, great advice!
 
Fogging oil...

+1 on the fogging oil (as opposed to regular oil) suggestion. It clings to the cylinder walls, and will not run off as easily. I use it at the start of every winter hibernation on my bikes....

Good luck,

ECJ
 
Gear?

Thank you Dennis, great advice!

Hello again Dennis, quick question. Could the transmission be in 1st for this procedure? I ask only because the bike is well torn down, the clutch cable and lever are removed. I am thinking I can get the trans more easily into 1st, and back to neutral?

Thank you,
George
 
Back
Top