Clutch / trans install issue '99 R1100R

Happy New Year everybody. I am in the process of changing out my trans and clutch, and going back together I'm running into something that's got me stumped. I bought a new (used) transmission due to snapping off the upper right side mounting point, and while I was in there I had the clutch assembly rebuilt (Housing and pressure plate resurfaced and friction disc re-lined). When I bolted the new trans back up I noticed the clutch lever is super sloppy (about half it's travel before it even starts to move the lever on the trans, and won't pull enough to disengage the clutch. At first I thought something must be different between the old and new, but I measured the position of the trans lever, compared the clutch rods and even bolted the old trans back on and the issue persists. Ok, then I must have the clutch assembled wrong but geez, there's not much to it and I don't know how you would get it together incorrectly, I just took it apart again and everything seems to be where it should. I did replace the diaphragm spring plate also, but don't see any difference between old and new either.

With the trans off I was comparing the position of the clutch rod when inserted in the transmission, and one thing I noticed is that there is some spring tension pushing against the rod until it bottoms out against the clutch lever. With the trans mounted it feels like the rod is not getting pushed far enough into the transmission to contact the lever, hence the excessive slop. Has to be something dumb I'm missing, hoping that someone can enlighten me. Thanks!

Do you have the spring #4 in the right way?
The center high point faces rearwards.

GSAddict said:

Do you have the spring #4 in the right way?
The center high point faces rearwards.

Click to expand...

Yes, it is.

"Housing and pressure plate resurfaced and friction disc re-lined"

How much material was removed from from the pressure plates?
What is the relined thickness of the disc in MM? Should be 6.2-6.4

What you have done is not typical of a clutch repair. Generally new components are used. Dimensions are critical for correct function.
I have only resurfaced 1 set of pressure plates and remember taking off very little and using a new clutch disc.

Have you verified that the pushrod is being inserted the correct way round, and that the piston and throwout bearing are complete and assembled properly?

Best,
DeVern

So, I should say - I sent the whole assembly out together, the company that did it was recommended by someone on this forum but I understand it is a non-standard repair. I will take some measurements and report back. My understanding was that the resurfacing was minimal and only done to bring the surface back to true with respect to the clutch disc. The rod is "pointy end forward" where the taper protrudes into the crank and the shoulder bears against the diaphragm spring. As pictured:



I have not looked at the throwout bearing / piston, as everything was working fine before. Can I access from the rear by removing the clutch lever & rubber boot?

mzeitz said:

I have not looked at the throwout bearing / piston, as everything was working fine before. Can I access from the rear by removing the clutch lever & rubber boot?

Click to expand...

Yes

You likely just have to readjust the clutch cable as you likely had to unhook it when you took the tranny out. Check in your owners manual or a service manual. BMW's usually have you do a bit of a dance in setting the initial cable to a set amount, then adjust the bolt on the push rod until it is just touching, lock it down, then go to the handlebar and adjust for the free play.

My guess is something like the above is your issue.

^^^ I assumed he was aware of that.

cycleman2 said:

You likely just have to readjust the clutch cable as you likely had to unhook it when you took the tranny out. Check in your owners manual or a service manual. BMW's usually have you do a bit of a dance in setting the initial cable to a set amount, then adjust the bolt on the push rod until it is just touching, lock it down, then go to the handlebar and adjust for the free play.

My guess is something like the above is your issue.

Click to expand...

I understand I'll have to adjust the cable/linkage as you describe, it just seems like such a huge amount of play, i.e. the clutch lever is almost contacting the forward edge of the slot in the case before it even contacts the rod. I don't even think there's enough adjustment to take all that up. I might be wrong - I'll take another look at it. Appreciate the suggestions.

GSAddict said:

"Housing and pressure plate resurfaced and friction disc re-lined"

How much material was removed from from the pressure plates?
What is the relined thickness of the disc in MM? Should be 6.2-6.4

What you have done is not typical of a clutch repair. Generally new components are used. Dimensions are critical for correct function.
I have only resurfaced 1 set of pressure plates and remember taking off very little and using a new clutch disc.

Click to expand...

Friction disc is 6.4 on the nose (measured w/ micrometer). I’m going to fool with the piston & lever adjustment and see how that works out. Could be that simple. I assumed I had to have assembled something incorrectly to be that far out, but perhaps that’s not the case.

You may want to check back with the clutch vendor as well. Southland, as an example, machines the carrier and cover just enough to true them then relines the friction disk thicker to make up the difference—your finished clutch pack ends up the same overall thickness as OEM. At 6.4mm your friction disk doesn’t seem any thicker than OEM.

But even if there were a discrepancy there, it would not result in the amount of play you are seeing. I’m still suspicious of your piston and it’s throwout bearing- like maybe the bearing has dropped out on the bench somewhere...

Best,
DeVern

GTRider said:

You may want to check back with the clutch vendor as well. Southland, as an example, machines the carrier and cover just enough to true them then relines the friction disk thicker to make up the difference—your finished clutch pack ends up the same overall thickness as OEM. At 6.4mm your friction disk doesn’t seem any thicker than OEM.

But even if there were a discrepancy there, it would not result in the amount of play you are seeing. I’m still suspicious of your piston and it’s throwout bearing- like maybe the bearing has dropped out on the bench somewhere...

Best,
DeVern

Click to expand...

Southland is who I sent it to; I spoke to them and this seems like a common job they are used to doing so I'm confident in what they gave me, for whatever that's worth. I'm going to take a look at the piston and throwout bearing next time I head back out to the shop, unfortunately I have some actual work to do first....

I removed the lever and the boot, the piston and spring are where they're supposed to be and nothing looks out of order. I put it back together and was able to adjust the play out of it at the lever, but I had to turn the bolt in so there's only a couple of threads left between the bolt head and the lock nut. I still don't get how it wound up with that much slop in it - I'm guessing I had to take up at least about 1/4" of travel - but I don't see anything else wrong so I guess I'll run with it. Update: when doing the clutch adjustment (first time doing it) I found that the cable adjustment up top was way off - there is supposed to be 10mm between the adjuster barrel and lock nut, and there was basically zero. When I set it to 10mm, I found I was able to back the lower adjuster off again and it ended up close to where it was originally.

If that was the extent of it, that's a forehead slapper for sure...oh well. Appreciate the feedback and suggestions!