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Rear brake fluid reservoir
- Thread starter ccolwell
- Start date
akbeemer
SURVIVOR
I use one of those.... even on my bikes with Speed Bleeders installed. I find that it is easier to use with silicon tubing installed; it is available from the Speed Bleeder folks. When I used it with the harder tubing I observed air being sucked into the hose around the nipple on some bikes. That went away with the use of the silicon tubing.
lee
Debbie's Servant
Boxflyer
Active member
It's on the SpeedBleeder site
https://store-speedbleeder-com.3dcartstores.com/Speed-Bleeder-Bag-Hose-Combo_p_57.html
https://store-speedbleeder-com.3dcartstores.com/Speed-Bleeder-Bag-Hose-Combo_p_57.html
lee
Debbie's Servant
I've had good luck using this fwiw.
https://www.google.com/amp/s/allsta...der-bottle-w-magnet-and-check-valve-all11017/
https://www.google.com/amp/s/allsta...der-bottle-w-magnet-and-check-valve-all11017/
Boxflyer
Active member
Totally an estimation on my part...maybe around 30cc, or equivalent to about 2 tablespoons in all the passageways. But...only a very few of the passageways are not in the direct path of normal flushing of the front or rear system.
I do the GS-911 module activation of the flush routine every other year and a normal (non GS-911) direct flush every year.
The reason I do the brake fluid renew annually is because I live in an area where there are large temperature swings as well as very humid conditions that can cause the brake fluid to absorb atmospheric moisture.
MORE IMPORTANT than cycling the ABS pump is the idea that you need to get the old brake fluid out from behind the pistons in the caliper bodies and replace that volume with fresh brake fluid that has not been soaking up moisture since the last flush.
Firstly, I clean all exposed surfaces of the caliper pistons, since the next step will push any accumulated crud past the caliper seals and could damage them. There are difficult sides of the pistons to get to with a soft tooth brush or similar cleaning tool, so I use a shoe lace around the tight areas and use a sawing/polishing motion to get then entire circumference totally clean.
Next, extract the fluid from the reservoir on the front or rear circuit, as you would normally, as well as to make room for the caliper fluid volume. Then push the clean pistons back into the calipers until they are bottomed out...and that will be the most old fluid back up the lines and past the bleed screws. On the front with the pair of calipers, it takes some shimming with either old brake pads and some cabinet shims, or whatever you feel will work for you to keep both calipers with the 8 pistons wedged firmly into the calipers simultaneously. Now extract all remaining old brake fluid from the reservoir so you can start adding fresh DOT4 LV (low viscosity) brake fluid.
Fill up the reservoir so that it has about 3/4 capacity and won't slosh out with the work you are doing on the fork legs and hand brake lever...not so much a concern on the rear circuit.
On the front, it doesn't matter which side you do first as they are equidistant from the reservoir, but if your bike has different lengths for the LH and RH supply lines, do the most distant caliper first.
Since I use SpeedBleeders on just about every bike I work on, I crack open the bleed screw about 1/4 turn with the silicone tube running up, before down, to the catch bag from SpeedBleeder.com.
I simply pump slowly watching the color of the old fluid in the silicone tube and keep an eye on the reservoir so it never gets close to becoming low and could suck in some air. When the old yellow fluid is replace with clear fresh fluid, that side is good.
On the front, I bleed both supply lines before doing the next step which is, remove all the blocking or whatever you were using to keep the pistons bottomed out, and remount the caliper with the pads in place for normal operation. I use a small amount of Silaramic on the high load contact points of the backing plates of the pads.
Up until this point, the focus was to refresh the fluid starting at the reservoir, down to the ABS pump, thru all of the normal circuits of that module, then all the lines out to the wheel calipers bleed screws. Whatever fluid you pushed back up the lines when you bottomed the caliper pistons is now out of the system and there is fresh fluid right up to the bleed screws.
Now when you mount the calipers with pads, keeping the reservoir pretty full, any new fluid that pushes the pistons out will be new/fresh DOT4 LV.
Keep in mind that anytime you are reusing pads, that in the future, pushing your pistons back into the calipers could overflow the reservoir if you now top off the fluid to the fullest mark. Just be mindful of reservoir levels from now on doing maintenance such as installing new pads between flushing/topping off of the reservoir.
Sorry this is such a thread drift, but it is tough to just put out snippets of information in reply to specific questions sometimes.
Hope this helps.
I do the GS-911 module activation of the flush routine every other year and a normal (non GS-911) direct flush every year.
The reason I do the brake fluid renew annually is because I live in an area where there are large temperature swings as well as very humid conditions that can cause the brake fluid to absorb atmospheric moisture.
MORE IMPORTANT than cycling the ABS pump is the idea that you need to get the old brake fluid out from behind the pistons in the caliper bodies and replace that volume with fresh brake fluid that has not been soaking up moisture since the last flush.
Firstly, I clean all exposed surfaces of the caliper pistons, since the next step will push any accumulated crud past the caliper seals and could damage them. There are difficult sides of the pistons to get to with a soft tooth brush or similar cleaning tool, so I use a shoe lace around the tight areas and use a sawing/polishing motion to get then entire circumference totally clean.
Next, extract the fluid from the reservoir on the front or rear circuit, as you would normally, as well as to make room for the caliper fluid volume. Then push the clean pistons back into the calipers until they are bottomed out...and that will be the most old fluid back up the lines and past the bleed screws. On the front with the pair of calipers, it takes some shimming with either old brake pads and some cabinet shims, or whatever you feel will work for you to keep both calipers with the 8 pistons wedged firmly into the calipers simultaneously. Now extract all remaining old brake fluid from the reservoir so you can start adding fresh DOT4 LV (low viscosity) brake fluid.
Fill up the reservoir so that it has about 3/4 capacity and won't slosh out with the work you are doing on the fork legs and hand brake lever...not so much a concern on the rear circuit.
On the front, it doesn't matter which side you do first as they are equidistant from the reservoir, but if your bike has different lengths for the LH and RH supply lines, do the most distant caliper first.
Since I use SpeedBleeders on just about every bike I work on, I crack open the bleed screw about 1/4 turn with the silicone tube running up, before down, to the catch bag from SpeedBleeder.com.
I simply pump slowly watching the color of the old fluid in the silicone tube and keep an eye on the reservoir so it never gets close to becoming low and could suck in some air. When the old yellow fluid is replace with clear fresh fluid, that side is good.
On the front, I bleed both supply lines before doing the next step which is, remove all the blocking or whatever you were using to keep the pistons bottomed out, and remount the caliper with the pads in place for normal operation. I use a small amount of Silaramic on the high load contact points of the backing plates of the pads.
Up until this point, the focus was to refresh the fluid starting at the reservoir, down to the ABS pump, thru all of the normal circuits of that module, then all the lines out to the wheel calipers bleed screws. Whatever fluid you pushed back up the lines when you bottomed the caliper pistons is now out of the system and there is fresh fluid right up to the bleed screws.
Now when you mount the calipers with pads, keeping the reservoir pretty full, any new fluid that pushes the pistons out will be new/fresh DOT4 LV.
Keep in mind that anytime you are reusing pads, that in the future, pushing your pistons back into the calipers could overflow the reservoir if you now top off the fluid to the fullest mark. Just be mindful of reservoir levels from now on doing maintenance such as installing new pads between flushing/topping off of the reservoir.
Sorry this is such a thread drift, but it is tough to just put out snippets of information in reply to specific questions sometimes.
Hope this helps.
radiofun1
Redneck Oregonian
Great info. Thanks. I just speed bleeders for this new to me wet head. Have installed speed bleeders on past bike and they make bleeding infinitely easier. Regarding torx plus, i believe the final drive drain plug is also torx plus. I used a regular torx to remove the plug and it came out easily. Low torque setting.
lee
Debbie's Servant
I think you're right.
Here's the final drive drain plug om the R1200RS.
Same plug on the K1300S.
radiofun1
Redneck Oregonian
I didn't want to waste time looking locally for a set of toes plus bits so I went with this: Neiko 10086A Standard Torx Plus Bit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UC9WJ...t_i_MYC0VKTKDE2EZTJCG54C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
lee
Debbie's Servant
I looked yesterday and didn't spot that set.
I ended up just buying the one bit.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2917178848...rentrq:691f64d317e0aaf458413e3fffc57e5e|iid:1
In 2016 I checked the places in town that had tool and non of the stores had Torx Plus.
lee
Debbie's Servant
lee
Debbie's Servant
Boxflyer
Active member
Torx Plus
Torx Plus for Final Drive. EDIT: Torx Plus is the WRONG Tool
The above listed tool bit by OTC is #6188, which is size TP45. Unfortunately, that does not fit the drain plug on the FD. It is too large by one size.
What does NOT work, is OTC #6187, which is size TP40. Both are 3/8 drive. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000O825J2?ref=ppx_pt2_dt_b_prod_image
I have been using a standard Torx T45 for years with success, since a standard Torx40 will slip in the drain plug. DELETED
This plug is used on these bikes according to RealOEM.com. https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part?id=0A13-USA-05-2017-K52-BMW-R_1200_RT_0A03,_0A13_&mg=02&sg=05&diagId=02_0103&q=33117705854
Torx Plus for Final Drive. EDIT: Torx Plus is the WRONG Tool
The above listed tool bit by OTC is #6188, which is size TP45. Unfortunately, that does not fit the drain plug on the FD. It is too large by one size.
What does NOT work, is OTC #6187, which is size TP40. Both are 3/8 drive. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000O825J2?ref=ppx_pt2_dt_b_prod_image
I have been using a standard Torx T45 for years with success, since a standard Torx40 will slip in the drain plug. DELETED
This plug is used on these bikes according to RealOEM.com. https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part?id=0A13-USA-05-2017-K52-BMW-R_1200_RT_0A03,_0A13_&mg=02&sg=05&diagId=02_0103&q=33117705854
Last edited:
lee
Debbie's Servant
Torx Plus for Final Drive
For future reference (if anyone ever uses the "Search Function") to this tool to remove the Final Drive drain plug...
The above listed tool bit by OTC is #6188, which is size TP45. Unfortunately, that does not fit the drain plug on the FD. It is too large by one size.
What does work, is OTC #6187, which is size TP40. Both are 3/8 drive. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000O825J2?ref=ppx_pt2_dt_b_prod_image
I have been using a standard Torx T45 for years with success, since a standard Torx40 will slip in the drain plug. But, thanks to Lee, this TorxPlus 40 is the exact right tool for the OEM FD drain plug.
This plug is used on these bikes according to RealOEM.com. https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part?id=0A13-USA-05-2017-K52-BMW-R_1200_RT_0A03,_0A13_&mg=02&sg=05&diagId=02_0103&q=33117705854
Thanks. I was thinking TP 40 would be the correct tool.
The standard T45 worked fine but in the future it would bug me not using the exact correct tool
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