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ccolwell

Member
I just started flushing the brake fluid in my 2020 R1250R. Front went fine but I couldn't get the rear reservoir cap off. It appears to be a twist off but won't budge. Am I missing something?

And is there a reasonably priced service manual anywhere for wetheads?
 
I just started flushing the brake fluid in my 2020 R1250R. Front went fine but I couldn't get the rear reservoir cap off. It appears to be a twist off but won't budge. Am I missing something?

And is there a reasonably priced service manual anywhere for wetheads?

it's a twist off. But why would yo flush the brake fluid on a 2020 bike? first it's a once very 2 years thing and second it's rather complicated as you have to flush the ABS system as well. Unless you have the leaking Hayes calipers your brakes are better left alone. Your favorite dealer can flush your brake system when you change tires in a couple of years. Will take him around 15 minutes including resetting the pressure modulator and the ECU.
 
it's a twist off. But why would yo flush the brake fluid on a 2020 bike? first it's a once very 2 years thing .

The first brake flush is at one year, then every two years after that.
 
As Lee said, having the BMW DVD, Haynes Manual and JVB DVD is a good idea.

I flush my brakes every year. Not complicated and not expensive. I recommend installing SpeedBleeders as they make it a one person job. It is a good idea to cycle the ABS pump when you flush to put fresh fluid in it. I use a GS911 device; a MotoScan setup is cheaper but must be used with an Android phone. You can also cycle the ABS pump by activating the ABS. I did this regularly on my FJR before a test device became available. Get the bike up to about 30 MPH on a gravel road and activate the ABS with the rear brake three times for 2 seconds each.
 
Thanks to all. I guess it just needs a bit more torque but I didn't want to force it when it's easy to check on this site.

I change brake fluid on all my bikes yearly. It may be overkill but makes me feel safer. And it is a reaction to the stories I hear at my various local dealerships -- bikes coming in for service with 1 quart of oil in them, etc. A friend recently bought a used bike from a dealer. The service sheet listed the brake fluid as 'looking fine' (ok, it said something else but all they did was a visible inspection -- same for the oil and coolant). I changed the brake fluid before he rode it.

I cycle the ABS by activating while riding. As for speed bleeders, I use the bleeder bags that guy sells and otherwise do it the old fashion way.
 
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Thanks to all. I guess it just needs a bit more torque but I didn't want to force it when it's easy to check on this site.

The first time I did our Wetheads it was difficult to remove the cap.
Use both hands. One to grip the reservoir and one to grip the cap.
 
2019 R1250RT, 12K service in progress. Got my Speed Bleeders in the mail yesterday. Will flush brake system this evening.
 
it's a twist off. But why would yo flush the brake fluid on a 2020 bike? first it's a once very 2 years thing and second it's rather complicated as you have to flush the ABS system as well. Unless you have the leaking Hayes calipers your brakes are better left alone. Your favorite dealer can flush your brake system when you change tires in a couple of years. Will take him around 15 minutes including resetting the pressure modulator and the ECU.

One year for first flush. And its easy to flush the ABS pump with a GS911
 
it's a twist off. But why would yo flush the brake fluid on a 2020 bike? first it's a once very 2 years thing and second it's rather complicated as you have to flush the ABS system as well. Unless you have the leaking Hayes calipers your brakes are better left alone. Your favorite dealer can flush your brake system when you change tires in a couple of years. Will take him around 15 minutes including resetting the pressure modulator and the ECU.

The brake fluid scheduled is after 1 year and then every 2 year thereafter.

I've learned my lesson, which is "Why would I want the dealer to do something I could do better myself?" When the dealer did my 1 year brake fluid change, they probably did do it in 15 mins because the tech used the wrong bit on the torx head screws on my front master and chewed up the heads. The handle was spongy too. Same for the rear... spongy foot pedal. On top of that they "set the tire pressure", which means they let air out of already warmed up tires so they were low and I had to top them up again at home before my next ride. All that fun and a bill to pay as well...

When I do it myself it still takes less time than going to dealer to have it done, nothing gets damaged, and they work/feel as they should.
 
I just started flushing the brake fluid in my 2020 R1250R. Front went fine but I couldn't get the rear reservoir cap off. It appears to be a twist off but won't budge. Am I missing something?


Get a good hold on the reservoir itself with your left hand and turn the cap with your right. I've had mine be pretty tight, but its a standard right hand thread cap and it will come off.
 
the tech used the wrong bit on the torx head screws on my front master and chewed up the heads.

For some reason BMW uses a Torx Plus on the brake reservoir cover and a regular Torx on the clutch reservoir cover.
 
The brake fluid scheduled is after 1 year and then every 2 year thereafter.

I've learned my lesson, which is "Why would I want the dealer to do something I could do better myself?"

When I do it myself it still takes less time than going to dealer to have it done, nothing gets damaged, and they work/feel as they should.

Got my Speed Bleeders installed. They are a game changer! Bled/flushed the brakes with fresh DOT 4, did the GS-911 ABS bleed routine.
 
Just for my fellow tool-hogs, here's the difference (picture pulled off the 'net) ...
 

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Just for my fellow tool-hogs, here's the difference (picture pulled off the 'net) ...

I never heard of Torx Plus until we got the R1200RSs.
Riding down a boring road I noticed the screws on the brake reservoir cover looked different than the clutch reservoir cover.
At first I thought the brake reservoir screws were messed up but when I stopped and took a close look they were fine, just different.
I didn't find any torx plus bits locally so I got one from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6183-TORX-PLUS-Socket/dp/B000O846RQ

If BMW used torx plus on one cover to mess with us I wish they had put torx plus on the clutch reservoir cover.
I have no reason to touch that cover.
 
If BMW used torx plus on one cover to mess with us I wish they had put torx plus on the clutch reservoir cover.
I have no reason to touch that cover.

Are they interchangeable?

Are the brakes Brembo?

Do you suppose diffferent suppliers? Poor specifications? Use what they send?
 
Are they interchangeable?

Are the brakes Brembo?

Do you suppose diffferent suppliers? Poor specifications? Use what they send?

The parts fiche shows different lengths, so I didn't try to swap them.
Brembo brakes.

Not a big deal and I could probably use a tox bit on the torx plus fasteners because they take very little torx, but I like to use the correct tool :)
 
I have used both the plated steel and the stainless steel versions, and prefer the stainless ones.
I've installed about 25 sets of these.
The cost is double for the stainless, but at $15 each, they are worth it.

These numbers are for Brembo brakes only.

Front RH=SB8125L-SS LH=SB6100-SS Rear=SB1010S-SS The dash SS =Stainless Steel.

http://www.speedbleeder.com/bikechart.htm

As an added note, if you are going to do a brake bleed/flush, the new recommended brake fluid is now DOT4 LV (low viscosity) for just about all BMW bikes.
This is to enhance the functionality of the DTC and rapid response of the ABS units.
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=0A13-USA-05-2017-K52-BMW-R_1200_RT_0A03,_0A13_&diagId=02_0125

Here's the list of bikes it's now spec'd for.
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part?id=0A13-USA-05-2017-K52-BMW-R_1200_RT_0A03,_0A13_&mg=02&sg=10&diagId=02_0125&q=83132467961
 
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