Glycerine, available at drug stores absorbs water mixed with oil. Get some and pour it in the crankcase.
Glycerine, available at drug stores absorbs water mixed with oil. Get some and pour it in the crankcase.
Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
"The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/
I would clean the cylinder bores and piston tops as best you can to see what shape the walls are in. You can make a soft landing spot for the bike and then lay it over on it's side (drain the oil for all the drive train parts first) and squirt a bunch of PB blaster, Kroil or your choice of non explosive penetrating lube into the open bore and then warm the outside of the cylinder with a heat gun or if your brave and have a fire extinguisher handy use a propane torch. Get it hot so the lubricant is starting to smoke a little and then let it cool naturally. Do a few cycles of this heat and cool routine and then clean that side up and flip the bike to the other side and do the same thing to the other side. Be patient and keep working with a non-destructive method to free things up.
Report back with results. Hopefully you can confirm the pistons are stuck in the barrels and the lower end is free to spin.
Be careful. Some stuff can damage paint if spilled and if the hair dryer ignites the fumes may damage a lot more than that.
-Live as fully as you can as long as you can-
Here it is at Walmart:https://www.walmart.com/ip/Equate-Gl...SABEgJizvD_BwE
And here it is at Rite Aid:https://www.riteaid.com/shop/rite-ai...SABEgK9_vD_BwE
I am sure Walgreens and CVS probably also carry the liquid.
Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
"The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/
Here are a couple of links you will use often and really come to appreciate I suspect ..
http://www.benchmarkworks.com/
https://www.bmwclassicmotorcycles.co...dels/r50-r69s/
Enjoy the build, looks like fun.
Chris - 2015 BMW RT / 1973 BMW R75/5 / 1955 BMW R50 - Yard Art - 1968 Hodaka / 1968 Sachs
SCBMWRC / MOA / Airhead Beemer Club / VBMWMO
Thanks, cwroady, for the links and encouragement! Just receives the Barrington Motor Works guide and have read through the intro and beginning sections. What an amazing resource and a good reminder that this is going to be a marathon, not a sprint.
I’ve had the bike laying on its sides for the past few days, filling the cylinders with Pb blaster, heating with a heat gun, then letting it sit, and then repeating. Right side seems to take about an hour for the oil to drain past the rings, which seems promising to me. Left side, well, that pool of oil has been about the same depth for 24+ hours, so that seems like the one that’ll be more troublesome. I figure I’ll keep on with this process for another week or so and if I don’t see any real progress I’ll begin looking into fabricating the “piston pusher” system outlined in the Barrington manual.
Having been in this kind of mess a number of times, a piece of hardwood against the top of the piston, hit with an air chisel has helped. There is no real “push” but the high speed vibration seems to spread the penetrating fluid and that helps with movement.
OM
"You can do good or you can do well. Sooner or later they make you choose." MI5
Mod Squad
2009 F800GS 1994 TW200
Curious to know if there has been any movement or progress on the seized engine situation.....
Let us know,
ECJ
Unfortunately no success yet. It’s been on its side with the left cylinder filled with PB blaster. A few times each day I heat it up until it smokes then smack a block of wood on it. Been doing that for about 10 days on this side and the level of penetrant hasn’t changed at all. Starting to think it might be time to fabricate a pusher tool and try that. I did pick up some atf today so might try soaking in that for awhile first. Thanks for asking and any advice welcome.
Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
"The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/
Yes, that's a 50-50 mix of ATF and acetone.
Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
'78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!
With my first Barn Bike, the R 69S the crank shaft was also frozen solid. I actually had to cut the connecting rods off to get it out of the block. Along with the frozen crank both pistons were very stuck in the bores. I hope this is not the case with your bike. If you do fashion a puller and try too push the pistons in I highly highly recommend you also loosen the four nuts that hold the cylinder and back those nuts off about 4-6 turns. Work on one side at a time and pull the cylinders off the piston instead of trying to rotate the possibly stuck crank shaft and the other possibly stuck piston. I'm far from an expert but I did just tackle two /2 motors with both pistons stuck and the first one also had a frozen solid crank shaft.