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Thread: No spark

  1. #16
    Left Coast Rider
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    Quote Originally Posted by mykrs View Post
    Is 70 pounds really bad news?
    In a word - yes. Make sure your valves are properly adjusted.

    I'm sure others will chime in with suggestions however, all else being equal, I think you're going to be at least pulling the heads.

  2. #17
    Pepperfool GSAddict's Avatar
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    Typically a healthy oilhead should push 160+ psi cold, no oil sprayed in.
    Both plugs out, throttle held wide open.
    '
    Ufda happens..........

    Need your R11xx Hall sensor rewired? PM me.

  3. #18
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    Total head scratcher

    So, i sent the bike to a mechanic to be sure that i was doing the compression test right and it was a bad motor before i gave up on the bike.
    he did a test and got in the 160 range on both cylinders. He also did a leak down and found a 12% leak rate.
    spark.
    The plugs that have fuel on them when he pulls them for a look after it won't start. They also turn black quickly he says.
    He too can only get it to almost start but it won't fire up.

    He also installed a new started saying the last one wasn't turning the bike fast enough.
    (17k miles on this 2002 RT1150 Rt just to refresh)

    So my thought is, it has spark, fuel, compression. So it's timing, right...? But I had the hall sensor rebuilt by GSaddict and installed on the same marks and I have a big blue spark.

    ALSO he remarks the bike doesn't turn over easily, and I got the impression from the fogged oil glass that the bike had overheated before i got it. If that were true would that make the bike act this way? It does turn over, it just feels labored and it won't fire up.

    Has anyone experienced this...? Thanks in advance.

  4. #19
    Registered User dieselyoda's Avatar
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    160 psi=touch high, 140 PSI makes me happy
    12 psi drop=bit much, less than 10% and I move on.
    got fuel=OK, not done there, need to look at pressure, pressure hold time and next, the spreadsheet with coding plugs and so on.
    Black plugs=air(not enough), timing late.
    Starter=need roughly 160 RPM on crank
    Fogged oil glass=could be Lucas(mine did that). An overheat might look a lot like melted fairing or really blue pipes.
    Labouring on start=timing

    I think you jumped the primary chain or worse, you peeled the liner off a chain tensioner on one head or both.

    Easy=Peasy, do a valve overlap comparison and Bob's your uncle or your brother or father or soon to be son-in law's father.

    For a good mechanic, the test is in his back pocket. For a technician, bit of stretch to read a dial indicator and for the average person, the Google and Youtube!!!
    1997 R1100RT, 1981 KZ 440 LTD, R80RT, R90/6 sidecar, K1100RS,1983 K100RS (Cafe now)

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  5. #20
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    Thanks for all that! I will discuss with mechanic.

  6. #21
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    [QUOTE=dieselyoda;1247554]160 psi=touch high, 140 PSI makes me happy

    CORRECTION- mechanic said compression was 192 and 193 in the cylinders.

    He checked valves and cam positions and said they were correct.

    What to do? Is the motor cooked?

  7. #22
    Registered User dieselyoda's Avatar
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    No indication the motor is cooked.

    At 192-196, if you get a few more PSI, it might run on Diesel!!

    If your guy is capable, doing a valve overlap check will give you the relationship to crankshaft timing to camshaft timing.

    If your engine still labours after the starter replacement and you have that high of compression, I would go straight to timing.

    It's pull, push, bang, blow in the same place at the right time.
    1997 R1100RT, 1981 KZ 440 LTD, R80RT, R90/6 sidecar, K1100RS,1983 K100RS (Cafe now)

    “The major civilizing force in the world is not religion, it is sex.”

  8. #23
    Registered User AntonLargiader's Avatar
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    I don't understand the bit about the bike not starting but the plugs are still turning black. If the bike were in my shop, I would:

    0) check the air filter and muffler for clogging (hold hand up to tailpipe while cranking and feel for distinct puffs of air).

    1) time the ignition. It's probably close enough to run, but there's no reason to ever reinstall one in anything but the perfect position.

    2) check fuel pressure.

    3) observe the pulses of fuel spray at the injectors to see if they look normal.

    4) replace the fuel with fresh if it is old.

    That's the low-hanging fruit. If it still wouldn't run I'd come up with the next plan. Mis-timed valves and stuff like that happens but it's very uncommon. It's not that hard to get these bikes to run. It's far more likely that something you have already looked at is actually wrong, than that the problem is something that has only affected this one bike ever.
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  9. #24
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    I did not take the air filter out nor did I look in the muffler. Something could have crawled in there and has clogged it up. I assume the mechanic at the shop checked this, but I will ask.
    I appreciate al this help.
    it really is confounding us both right now.

  10. #25
    Registered User AntonLargiader's Avatar
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    The symptoms really are 100% consistent with a clogged muffler. It's not something anyone looks for until they learn about it as a problem. Of course it could be something else but it's a good enough match and SO easy to check that it's first on my list.

    I had a bike in my shop with this, I didn't look for it and I didn't find it. It was a puzzle because everything checked out but the bike just didn't run. It coughed once or twice but that was all. The owner said thanks for trying and took the bike to the dealership. They were equally puzzled until one of the mechanics (not the one working on it) happened to walk past the lift when the bike was cranking and brilliantly noticed that he wasn't feeling the expected puff-puff against him as he passed by. The muffler was packed full of dog food. The emptied it out and the bike was back to normal. R1200GS. In retrospect, I realized that I did smell something a bit sweet from the exhaust, but I assumed it was the particular gasoline he used combined with the incomplete combustion.

    Anyway, go through that list with the mechanic and report what you find. If it still doesn't run, we'll come up with the next step. If you have good compression, the fuel pump and stuff like that works, the bike is fundamentally fine and you just need to find the relatively small problem that's crippling it.
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  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by AntonLargiader View Post
    The muffler was packed full of dog food. The emptied it out and the bike was back to normal.
    I'll bet the dog was pissed off when he found out someone had stolen his stash.

    I'll guess one could blame mice...or small children!

  12. #27
    Registered User AntonLargiader's Avatar
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    Did anyone look at the bike this week?
    Anton Largiader 72724
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  13. #28
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    Solved

    I’m writing this here, as a lesson to us all. This has me completely pissed off at myself. I sent the bike to a mechanic because I could not get it to run as I posted he ran through all the same things I did and couldn’t get it to run and pronounced the motor “toast.” I put the bike on Facebook marketplace it’s sold that day and the new owner got it running that night.What was wrong? The lower pulley was not indexed with the hall sensor so it was not firing on time.

    I put in the rebuilt hall sensor so it is my fault. I did not think to check my work once it wouldn’t run I just assumed I did everything right. That’s my big lesson. Now this guy down the street has this beautiful 17,000 mile or 1150 RT that I bought to be my new cruiser.

    On to the next but…damn do I feel stupid.

    Timing was the right call on the diagnosis. I knew that but couldn’t solve it. Damn…

    Thank you all.

  14. #29
    Registered User jsouth's Avatar
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    Ouch. That one hurts to read! Sorry, man.
    2000 BMW R1100RS | Past bikes: 97 Suzuki GS500E, 82 Suzuki GS1100E, 07 Suzuki V-Strom 650

  15. #30
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