1995 R100RT Major Front End Job, Advice Needed

1995 R100RT Front End Work, Advice Needed

I posted this same thread over on the Airheads.org Forum also, and hoping between here and there, I can go into the job with both eyes open, all parts needed on hand, and do it all in one job without having to come back to anything. This is about the only thing left to do to this RT before I run out of things to do other than ride it, but of course, I saved the best for last.

My recently acquired R100RT has leaking fork seals, which contaminated the brake pads. It also has a bit of head shake if I take my hands off the bars at 35-45 MPH, and dives way too much for me when braking hard. So I plan to do the job once and do it right: replace fork seals; install Progressive springs; replace brake pads (with Galfer HH); remove the fairing-to-fork seals and install gaiters; inspect, clean and adjust the steering head bearings, and check for stiction at the axle. With only 26,000 miles on the bike, I am hoping it won't need new steering bearings, but will replace them if needed.

To prepare for the job I have gathered: 11 rib gaiters & clamps, Progressive springs, All Balls fork seals, brake pads,

Still need to order: ACDelo P-80 Emulsion rubber lube, and Loc-Tite 518 Gasket Maker (if y'all say I need to). Also need to order the roll pins to vent the gators (anyone have a part number or size?) I also plan to use either 7.5 wt. fork oil or Valvoline power steering fluid (depending on your recommendations).

QUESTIONS: Is there anything else I need to order in preparation?

Can someone please walk me through the processes of the above, especially disassembly and reassembly regarding the fork seals? Also, correct amount of fork oil, and how to measure? Over the decades I have worked on a few Harleys' forks, and installed Progressive springs in a few Airheads, back in the day when I rode them, but the newest one was 1982. I know this 1995 RT likely has several key differences I need to know, going in. Plus it's been a few decades since I worked on a BMW front end. I appreciate any and all advice. Btw, I have ordered a Clymer maintenance manual, and will hopefully have it on hand soon.

Thanks in advance.

Joe Hall

Luck would have it,

As luck would have it you have started your work just after another fellow finished a major restoration job on a bike. Mind you, his was an older 83 bike but I would bet a lot of what he covers will cross over to your bike as well. The fellows name is Brook Reams, and he has a thread on this forum regarding his rebuild as well as his web site:https://brook.reams.me. Brook documented every step in great detail of his restorations both still and video. I have been using his website as help in my major overhaul of my RT.

Another fellow's web site to check out is Anton Largiader, at: http://www.largiader.com.

Finally the slightly more confusing but immensely helpful Snowbum's site is a good source of information. https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/technical-articles-list.htm

Between these three guys and perhaps more, you should find what you need in order to get going and do the job. Cheers, St.

Mono Shock Differences

Thanks Steven Rankin,
It appears much is different between mono shock and twin shock front forks. Even among mono shocks, there appears to be differences in late from early. I have scoured the internet and found one YT video on rebuilding a 1985 R80RT, by Boxer2Valve. It's an outstanding video, but I wonder about differences.

I am a wrench from way back, and will figure it out by myself if need be. But was hoping to benefit from the experience of some who have been there - done that already.

Thanks Again,
Joe Hall
BMWMOA #24,809

Well Joe

Well, Joe, sometimes it is better to have a video of something close to what you want done rather than nothing. As a mechanic, you won't have any problems crossing over from one system to another. The great part about having stuff documented in such detail is the ability to know what order to take things apart and then put them back together again.

I also find the various on line dealers who have the BMW parts microfiches on line to be a great help. Sometimes looking at a fiche will light the ah ha bulb in my brain.

Anyway, have fun, winter is here, better to work on a bike than have nothing to do with bikes at all. Cheers, St.

It's really amazing to me but back in the day BMW somehow managed to use some unexplainable steering bearing grease.

Mine finally hardened to the point that one day I had serious trouble making a left turn from a stoplight. That RS wasn't as old as your RT now is.

Get the bearings out and---I hate to say it---repack with some good ol' merikun grease.

Yeah Kent

Yeah Kent, my first steering head bearing job was due to this problem. Most likely BMW got a great price on the bad grease, they got to save money or, they believed the vendor. Not all new products are great. I remember years ago, when I was doing wheel bearings on cars, I purchased a tube of the new synthetic grease. It was supposed to be wonderful and a lot of other things. Now I didn't have any failures of bearings with it but, it did have the nasty habit of separating in my grease gun and when I picked it up to use it I got a trickle of fluid following me. The liquid would migrate past the piston in the gun and leak out the spring cover. Comments to the company were not returned. Hey, at least I didn't have bearings freeze up like some poor guy did a short while ago in one of the threads either here or the Vintage forum. St.

STEVENRANKIN said:

Yeah Kent, my first steering head bearing job was due to this problem. Most likely BMW got a great price on the bad grease, they got to save money or, they believed the vendor. Not all new products are great. I remember years ago, when I was doing wheel bearings on cars, I purchased a tube of the new synthetic grease. It was supposed to be wonderful and a lot of other things. Now I didn't have any failures of bearings with it but, it did have the nasty habit of separating in my grease gun and when I picked it up to use it I got a trickle of fluid following me. The liquid would migrate past the piston in the gun and leak out the spring cover. Comments to the company were not returned. Hey, at least I didn't have bearings freeze up like some poor guy did a short while ago in one of the threads either here or the Vintage forum. St.

Click to expand...

That sounds exactly like Texaco Starplex grease.

Hey Paul,

Hey Paul, with the advent of refineries having being gobbled up and petroleum or similar chemicals coming from fewer places, it is possible it was the same as Texaco Starplex. I don't recall. I should say, it is not just in the past this has happened but also happens in the tube of grease I have in the gun I just finished and it was not synthetic or I don't recall it being so. Not sure what I am going to use now. St.

Whatever grease is/was used, it's a different animal that say wheel bearing grease. Wheel bearings spin crazily all the time...steering stem bearings not so much. You need some moly for the movement portion of the bearings, but you need a tacky grease that stays put and doesn't migrate around.

Steering head grease

Hello Kurt, sorry, I should have clarified my note. When I was writing about my bearing grease problems, I was referring only to spinning wheel bearing grease. I use a different grease for head bearings. Lubriplate I believe. I am going to be putting my bike back together as soon as the powder coat shop gets done. Then, I will have to dig out my can of head grease. Right now it is hidden on my shelf and thus I can't remember the manufacture name. LOL, out of sight out of mind. Cheers, St.

I have read or watched about all that is available on the internet, regarding mono shock Airhead front forks. Looks like the early / late differences are within the 1995 year of production. Near as I can tell, the only difference is the spring retainer at top of the forks; early style is same as others back to 1988, with threaded retainers; later style is held in place by a snap ring. My RT was born December 1994 and has the early style retainers, I just confirmed yesterday. Was also able to order the crush washers yesterday for the bolts at bottom of the fork legs, which hold the sliders in place. While at it, I ordered later style bolts with torque head instead of Allen head, which I understand is prone to stripping. To avoid damper rotation during reassembly when tightening that bolt, I plan to try a broom stick from the other end, pressed firmly into the top of the damper. That failing, will use something metal, i.e. a squared easy out. So far, it doesn't look like rocket science.

Not in a big rush to do the job, and wanna plan well and insure all needed parts are on hand first. That way, the bike won't be down for more than a day or so (fingers crossed).

Front End Almost Done

Today I did most of the planned front end work. It was a lot simpler than I'd anticipated, but probably because I prepared by watching YT videos, reading the Shop Manual, asking questions here, etc.. I initially thought mine, though a 1995, had the earlier type fork spring retainers. But it turned out to have the ones held in place by snap rings. I was able to remove and install them by myself, but it was a bit more difficult with the new Progressive springs. I used a long screwdriver, cushioned by a folded cloth and placed against my chest, to press the retainer down far enough to install the snap rings. The steering neck bearings were OK, so I just cleaned and repacked them. The new front tire came in today, so I will mount that as part of the job, no more Kenda tires for me.

Initial Ride Impressions

Yesterday and today I rode the bike about 100 miles total. With the front end job, and new front & rear tires, it rides like a different bike. The Progressive springs do exactly what they are supposed to do, eliminate excess dive under heavy braking, yet provide a smooth ride; the repacked & readjusted steering bearings, along with new seals and restored fork oil level make the bike feel much more planted under all conditions. Removing the fork leg seals and replacing with gaiters now allows effortless, lock to lock steering, which is very nice, especially in parking lot maneuvering. The removed seals also reduces the negative air pressure in the cockpit, for less buffeting and wind on the back side. So I am a happy camper, and could not have asked for better results.

Btw, I used power steering fluid for fork oil.