Lots of good information here, but I haven't found any threads that talk about where to put the fuse block. I've got a 2017 R1200RT and don't really need all the whiz-bang of the Hex ezCAN. I'm thinking more along the lines of a Fuseblocks device. I haven't removed a great deal of tupperware yet, but BMW seems to have put something everywhere I look. What have y'all done? Thanks!
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Where to place add on fuse block?
- Thread starter STEVEWOO
- Start date
Boxflyer
Active member
Hi Steve,
I use a FuzeBlock as well as another fuse holder to handle all my additional power needs.
All I needed to do was unclip and relocate 1 wire that was attached to a small black plastic pillar on the underside of the pillion seat.
The extra fuse panel is tucked away up under the rear luggage rack and can be pulled out to replace fuses easily.
There are more items covered here regarding connivence items
https://youtu.be/W558WWFcIPE?t=411
I use a FuzeBlock as well as another fuse holder to handle all my additional power needs.
All I needed to do was unclip and relocate 1 wire that was attached to a small black plastic pillar on the underside of the pillion seat.
The extra fuse panel is tucked away up under the rear luggage rack and can be pulled out to replace fuses easily.
There are more items covered here regarding connivence items
https://youtu.be/W558WWFcIPE?t=411
AjaxTheDog
New member
Gt rid of the speakers
IMO the built in speakers are worthless so I took them out and then cut up some flat plastic I had to fit in the space they occupied. It is held in place with adhesive velcro. Although my primary interest was to get the speaker output into a Bluetooth transmitter I did also mount a switched fuse block in the right side cavity. The fuse block is switched on and off by a tap into the powerlet socket wire on the right side so it is on when the ignition is on and off about 15 minutes or so after its shut off. It powers my aftermarket horn and a radar detector through a USB step down converter. The switch block itself feeds power from the battery so I don't have to deal with CANBUS amperage limitations should I eventually set up a heated clothing outlet later..
The upside is that there is lots of room in there and it's close to the items I want to power. Also just takes two screw to easily remove the speaker cover. I guess its not waterproof but I haven't seen any evidence that water is getting up there when I ride in rain. However it doesn't rain much here and I avoid riding in the rain. I have had this setup for over a year now and had no problems. If I wanted to remove it all and go back to the stock setup that would be easy and the only mod to the bike was the vampire tap into the powerlet wire.
Here's the cavity with the speaker out and what I then put in afterward. Left side too.
IMO the built in speakers are worthless so I took them out and then cut up some flat plastic I had to fit in the space they occupied. It is held in place with adhesive velcro. Although my primary interest was to get the speaker output into a Bluetooth transmitter I did also mount a switched fuse block in the right side cavity. The fuse block is switched on and off by a tap into the powerlet socket wire on the right side so it is on when the ignition is on and off about 15 minutes or so after its shut off. It powers my aftermarket horn and a radar detector through a USB step down converter. The switch block itself feeds power from the battery so I don't have to deal with CANBUS amperage limitations should I eventually set up a heated clothing outlet later..
The upside is that there is lots of room in there and it's close to the items I want to power. Also just takes two screw to easily remove the speaker cover. I guess its not waterproof but I haven't seen any evidence that water is getting up there when I ride in rain. However it doesn't rain much here and I avoid riding in the rain. I have had this setup for over a year now and had no problems. If I wanted to remove it all and go back to the stock setup that would be easy and the only mod to the bike was the vampire tap into the powerlet wire.
Here's the cavity with the speaker out and what I then put in afterward. Left side too.
Fuzeblock and decent Bluetooth audio too!
Bill - my apologies to you as well for not responding more quickly to your input. Somehow you anticipated my next project! I've been futzing with the onboard Bluetooth and have just about given up on it. I'll be examining your pictures carefully and asking questions. Thanks!
I totally agree with you that the onboard speakers are a waste of space but haven't gotten around to dealing with them. It's taken me a while to decide that the problem with the BMW audio is their Bluetooth transmitter rather than any of the things I have tried on the receiving side of that connection. It seems pretty strange that I can improve that with a $25 Trond transmitter.
I can see your output converter and filter. What Bluetooth transmitter do you use or did you just upgrade to better speakers?
Bill - my apologies to you as well for not responding more quickly to your input. Somehow you anticipated my next project! I've been futzing with the onboard Bluetooth and have just about given up on it. I'll be examining your pictures carefully and asking questions. Thanks!
I totally agree with you that the onboard speakers are a waste of space but haven't gotten around to dealing with them. It's taken me a while to decide that the problem with the BMW audio is their Bluetooth transmitter rather than any of the things I have tried on the receiving side of that connection. It seems pretty strange that I can improve that with a $25 Trond transmitter.
I can see your output converter and filter. What Bluetooth transmitter do you use or did you just upgrade to better speakers?
AjaxTheDog
New member
Steve, I used a Sena SM10 Bluetooth transmitter. I liked this because I have Sena headsets and it also offers an additional input which I use for a radar detector sound into my music feed.
I ran a wire from the BMW system output (after all my equipment that you can see in the pictures) up to my tank bag where I keep the SM10. The downside of the SM10 is that it's battery powered so I charge it every few days. If you have no need for a second input like a radar detector I suppose you could use any Bluetooth transmitter powered by the bike for a much cleaner install than I have.
To get the speaker output I bought Uxcell DC 12V 8cm Cable Length Car Audio Speaker Harness Adapter for BMW Series 3 on Amazon for like $20 I think. I looked and it doesn't look like they carry them anymore, but I'll bet you can get them somewhere. I may have a spare set if you can't find them. These just plug into the speaker leads on your bike, no wire cuts. This setup lets you use the wonder wheel for volume, which you can't do if you use the onboard Bluetooth. It's been nice and reliable for several years now, It works. And if there is any problem then getting to these is just two screws, easier than removing the back seat.
I ran a wire from the BMW system output (after all my equipment that you can see in the pictures) up to my tank bag where I keep the SM10. The downside of the SM10 is that it's battery powered so I charge it every few days. If you have no need for a second input like a radar detector I suppose you could use any Bluetooth transmitter powered by the bike for a much cleaner install than I have.
To get the speaker output I bought Uxcell DC 12V 8cm Cable Length Car Audio Speaker Harness Adapter for BMW Series 3 on Amazon for like $20 I think. I looked and it doesn't look like they carry them anymore, but I'll bet you can get them somewhere. I may have a spare set if you can't find them. These just plug into the speaker leads on your bike, no wire cuts. This setup lets you use the wonder wheel for volume, which you can't do if you use the onboard Bluetooth. It's been nice and reliable for several years now, It works. And if there is any problem then getting to these is just two screws, easier than removing the back seat.
Do I have this right?
Speaker outputs (by way of the series 3 wiring harness) to the SNI-35 line out converter then to the noise isolator then to the Sena B/T transmitter?
I agree with you that being able to use the wonder wheel to control volume would be a very convenient thing.
Thanks, ~Steve
Speaker outputs (by way of the series 3 wiring harness) to the SNI-35 line out converter then to the noise isolator then to the Sena B/T transmitter?
I agree with you that being able to use the wonder wheel to control volume would be a very convenient thing.
Thanks, ~Steve
On my 2018 RT I added the SNI-35 and left the speakers hooked up so I have both if I decide to go on a quick spin without my brain bucket. I have it wired into a J&M CB radio/intercom as I ride with guys that use CB radio. With the wonder wheel turned down to one bar I get plenty of output to the J&M.
As far as a fuse block I added one under the right hand fairing by the coolant jug. I robbed power from the powerlet as I just needed a tiny bit for soom LED lights and a GPS. Not the most convenient, but I had fuses under the fairing of my HD for years that never got changed so I figured I would take the chance.
As far as a fuse block I added one under the right hand fairing by the coolant jug. I robbed power from the powerlet as I just needed a tiny bit for soom LED lights and a GPS. Not the most convenient, but I had fuses under the fairing of my HD for years that never got changed so I figured I would take the chance.
akbeemer
SURVIVOR
I suggest using a PDM60 (power distribution module) in lieu of a fuse block. It is smaller than most fuse blocks, there are no fuses to replace, can handle up to 60 amps total on 6 circuits and allows for a neater installation. At this site it is $20 cheaper than anyone else I could find: https://www.2wheel.com/rowe-electronics-pdm60-power-distribution-module.html
AjaxTheDog
New member
Here you go. I was concerned at first about using RCA plug connections but they have proven not to be a problem. In past experience any connectors are always the first point of failure, most often where the wire goes into the jack. The two SNI boxes are proven automobile audio components and much cheaper than some motorcycles specific ones that do the same thing. There are lots of choices for those from other auto audio manufacturers too.
The only other advice I'd offer is that the speaker grills are not waterproof, they have a piece of fabric inside. I wash my bike often and forget that, but if you direct a hard spray right at them I think that could be a problem. Let me know if you come up with something clever to solve that.
AjaxTheDog
New member
One more thing
Steve, if you haven’t purchased a Bluetooth transmitter yet I have to recommend the Sena SM10. I couldn’t find any other transmitter that offered two simultaneous inputs. It also supports two Bluetooth connections out (Think rider AND passenger headsets). The battery lasts all day and then some. I have had mine for so many years I can’t even remember, it’s at least 10 years old. It is water resistant or whatever passes for that these days. I have replaced the battery in it once with an aftermarket higher Mah version and it keeps on ticking. Connections are usually immediate (like 5-10 seconds) but occasionally you have to hit the button to force a connect. You could probably arrange for switched charging from your new fuseblock through a USB stepdown. I am pretty sure it will work even fully discharged as long as it is plugged in, but maybe someone else can confirm that. It’s more expensive than the cheaper units but it works and keeps on ticking. No, I don't work for Sena...
Steve, if you haven’t purchased a Bluetooth transmitter yet I have to recommend the Sena SM10. I couldn’t find any other transmitter that offered two simultaneous inputs. It also supports two Bluetooth connections out (Think rider AND passenger headsets). The battery lasts all day and then some. I have had mine for so many years I can’t even remember, it’s at least 10 years old. It is water resistant or whatever passes for that these days. I have replaced the battery in it once with an aftermarket higher Mah version and it keeps on ticking. Connections are usually immediate (like 5-10 seconds) but occasionally you have to hit the button to force a connect. You could probably arrange for switched charging from your new fuseblock through a USB stepdown. I am pretty sure it will work even fully discharged as long as it is plugged in, but maybe someone else can confirm that. It’s more expensive than the cheaper units but it works and keeps on ticking. No, I don't work for Sena...
Neither do I. I have their SMH10 with a cradle that lets me plug in earbuds. I've been very happy with that. Hate the helmet speakers - it's like the bike speakers all over again.
AjaxTheDog
New member
Neither do I. I have their SMH10 with a cradle that lets me plug in earbuds. I've been very happy with that. Hate the helmet speakers - it's like the bike speakers all over again.
Sent you a PM, found the plugs.
