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Winterizing?

M

mntngrown

New member
So as snow season approaches in the Ca Sierras, I wonder what you all seasoned cold weather owners do for the down season. I have a battery tender but wonder about procedures with Seafoam or other treatments. I might get a few weeks here and there to get a ride in as this is not the frigid tundra but several feet of snow do happen and I will probably stand down most of the winter. Thanks.
 
Having lived in Montana and Alaska the past 25+ years I have had the occasion to winterize a bike. I normally do a major service and cleaning of our bikes during the winter. In addition to what a service entails, I try to make sure that the fuel in the tank is ethanol free. This may not be possible where you live, but in any case add some fuel stabilizer and let the bike run until the treated fuel has made it to the injectors. I like to have the tank full to minimize condensation. Condensation is especially a problem if the bike will be stored in an area that experiences wide temperature changes. I put all our bikes on tenders but don’t leave them on all the time. I turn them on once a week or so and then off when the battery is fully charged. I store the bikes on their center stand which I think is better for the suspension and tires. Since ours are all inside I cover them only with old bed sheets to limit the dust that collects on them. As I said, I do a major service and I do it even if it is early. I like to store them with clean fluids and I want to reduce the down time I have for doing maintenance during the riding season. A detailing of the bike allows for a close inspection of everything. In addition to normal maintenance I will flush the brakes most years, including flushing/cycling the ABS pump; disassemble, clean and lube the shifter, inspect and service the drive shafts or chains; clean radiators, treat leather seats (and boots/gloves); service front forks; lube center & side stands. Hey, our winters are long.
 
A good list Kevin. I also make a list of any deferred maintenance to remind me of the work I may want to accomplish prior to next riding season. Make sure to add to a calendar when registration and/or insurance registration may be due. When changing the brake fluid, I do this in the spring as over time it acquires moisture so hopfully it will be better longer. My bikes are on HF floating chargers any time they aren't on the road. I run the simple glassmat batteries, never had an issue and usually get better than five years on a battery. The last thing I do for winter is stud the tires and install my Hippo Hands on the dirt hack.
 
akbeemer said:
Having lived in Montana and Alaska the past 25+ years I have had the occasion to winterize a bike. I normally do a major service and cleaning of our bikes during the winter. In addition to what a service entails, I try to make sure that the fuel in the tank is ethanol free. This may not be possible where you live, but in any case add some fuel stabilizer and let the bike run until the treated fuel has made it to the injectors. I like to have the tank full to minimize condensation. Condensation is especially a problem if the bike will be stored in an area that experiences wide temperature changes. I put all our bikes on tenders but don’t leave them on all the time. I turn them on once a week or so and then off when the battery is fully charged. I store the bikes on their center stand which I think is better for the suspension and tires. Since ours are all inside I cover them only with old bed sheets to limit the dust that collects on them. As I said, I do a major service and I do it even if it is early. I like to store them with clean fluids and I want to reduce the down time I have for doing maintenance during the riding season. A detailing of the bike allows for a close inspection of everything. In addition to normal maintenance I will flush the brakes most years, including flushing/cycling the ABS pump; disassemble, clean and lube the shifter, inspect and service the drive shafts or chains; clean radiators, treat leather seats (and boots/gloves); service front forks; lube center & side stands. Hey, our winters are long.
Click to expand...

+1
 
+2. I would also add the question as to whether the bike will be in heated or unheated storage? While a bike wants to be ridden and inactivity requires some preparation, I believe it also makes a difference if the bike is stored at a steady 65 degrees versus dramatic changes (and severe lows) in temperatures. With my bike stored at a constant 65 degrees regardless of the outside temperature, I can start it and let it heat to operating temperature occasionally during the winter (and even get it out if there isn't any ice on the road). I believe this makes a big difference versus sitting idle for 6 months.
 
Fortnight has a new video out on " Fuel Stabilizers" that is worth watching before your pour anything into your gas tank for the winter lay up. Looks to me non ethanol gas is the way to go if you can find it, and get all the old fuel out first.
Nick
 
powwow said:
+2. I would also add the question as to whether the bike will be in heated or unheated storage? While a bike wants to be ridden and inactivity requires some preparation, I believe it also makes a difference if the bike is stored at a steady 65 degrees versus dramatic changes (and severe lows) in temperatures. With my bike stored at a constant 65 degrees regardless of the outside temperature, I can start it and let it heat to operating temperature occasionally during the winter (and even get it out if there isn't any ice on the road). I believe this makes a big difference versus sitting idle for 6 months.
Click to expand...

I'm one of those people who will only start a bike when I can ride it ten to twenty miles on the road to get it thoroughly heat soaked, with any moisture out of the crankcase, exhaust, etc. I've always been of the opinion that motorcycles are designed to cool (and heat) correctly when in motion, and that idling - even with water-cooling - should be kept to a minimum. My bikes are in an insulated, but unheated garage, which is always twenty degrees above the outside temperature, but fluctuates with it. I'm in a relatively dry climate so condensation and corrosion are not problems.

I run non-ethanol fuel whenever I can, but make sure to have nothing but pure gas for winter storage and add two ounces of Startron as a stabilizer and two ounces of Techron as a system cleaner. I've had bikes with that mixture (classic K-bikes) which was over six months old start perfectly and run great through the whole tank. Not that I make a practice of letting a bike set for six months without riding it, but sometimes life happens. :)
 
GREGFEELER said:
I'm one of those people who will only start a bike when I can ride it ten to twenty miles on the road to get it thoroughly heat soaked, with any moisture out of the crankcase, exhaust, etc. I've always been of the opinion that motorcycles are designed to cool (and heat) correctly when in motion, and that idling - even with water-cooling - should be kept to a minimum. My bikes are in an insulated, but unheated garage, which is always twenty degrees above the outside temperature, but fluctuates with it. I'm in a relatively dry climate so condensation and corrosion are not problems.

I run non-ethanol fuel whenever I can, but make sure to have nothing but pure gas for winter storage and add two ounces of Startron as a stabilizer and two ounces of Techron as a system cleaner. I've had bikes with that mixture (classic K-bikes) which was over six months old start perfectly and run great through the whole tank. Not that I make a practice of letting a bike set for six months without riding it, but sometimes life happens. :)
Click to expand...

I agree with everything you've said. Being in Bend, we're also a very dry, high desert climate so no issue with moisture. I mention starting and bring it up to operating temperature, however it's more likely I start it and take a short ride. We get a lot of days in the winter with bright sunshine and 50 degrees, so great riding providing there isn't any ice hiding in the shadows. Pretty amazing when you consider Mt. Bachelor is only 17 miles away and they get upwards of 500" of snow! Ski in the morning...golf in the afternoon...brew pub at night. :D
 
powwow said:
I agree with everything you've said. Being in Bend, we're also a very dry, high desert climate so no issue with moisture. I mention starting and bring it up to operating temperature, however it's more likely I start it and take a short ride. We get a lot of days in the winter with bright sunshine and 50 degrees, so great riding providing there isn't any ice hiding in the shadows. Pretty amazing when you consider Mt. Bachelor is only 17 miles away and they get upwards of 500" of snow! Ski in the morning...golf in the afternoon...brew pub at night. :D
Click to expand...

"Ski in the morning...golf in the afternoon...brew pub at night." That is a perfect description of Boise in the winter, especially through November and starting the February. 50 degrees with good gear and clear roads is a great ride. :D
 
powwow said:
, I can start it and let it heat to operating temperature occasionally during the winter (and even get it out if there isn't any ice on the road).
Click to expand...

I don't start ours in the winter unless I can ride it 25 or 30 miles to get the oil hot.
Sitting at idle for 5 minutes does not get the oil hot.
I noticed a long time ago before a oil change that letting the bike idle for five minutes or so did not get the oil hot on a liquid cooled bike. The coolant was up to normal temp but the oil was not hot.
 
Lee said:
I don't start ours in the winter unless I can ride it 25 or 30 miles to get the oil hot.
Sitting at idle for 5 minutes does not get the oil hot.
I noticed a long time ago before a oil change that letting the bike idle for five minutes or so did not get the oil hot on a liquid cooled bike. The coolant was up to normal temp but the oil was not hot.
Click to expand...


I look at this situations an opportunity to give the bike an Italian Tune-up. No day is complete without bustin' the ton. :D
 
Lee said:
I don't start ours in the winter unless I can ride it 25 or 30 miles to get the oil hot.
Sitting at idle for 5 minutes does not get the oil hot.
I noticed a long time ago before a oil change that letting the bike idle for five minutes or so did not get the oil hot on a liquid cooled bike. The coolant was up to normal temp but the oil was not hot.
Click to expand...

As I said, it would be rare I would do that. More likely is start it and take it for a ride on the 50 degree winter days we get on a regular basis.
 
I saw a Norton 850 do a ton in a 10 x 20 shed on the center stand. This guy raced them in the 60s + 70s. And it was secured, a fan and exhaust set up. One of the wildest things I've seen with a bike. Sounded unbelievable. Sorry for the flashback. I think the Covid delirium is getting me.:blah
 
junkjohn said:
I saw a Norton 850 do a ton in a 10 x 20 shed on the center stand. This guy raced them in the 60s + 70s. And it was secured, a fan and exhaust set up. One of the wildest things I've seen with a bike. Sounded unbelievable. Sorry for the flashback. I think the Covid delirium is getting me.:blah
Click to expand...

Good story!!
 
The best part is that it was my bike. He called me to come over for the test run after he restored the entire bike.
 
6322 said:
A good list Kevin. Make a list of any deferred maintenance to remind me of the work I may want to accomplish prior to next riding season. Make sure to add to a calendar when registration and/or insurance registration may be due. When changing the brake fluid, I do this in the spring as over time it acquires moisture so hopfully it will be better longer. My bikes are on HF floating chargers any time they aren't on the road. I run the simple glassmat batteries, never had an issue and usually get better than five years on a battery. The last thing I do for winter is stud the tires and install my Hippo Hands on the dirt hack.
Click to expand...



Make a list!! Good thing I have a white board mounted in the shop! It's also fun to put a check mark next to the completed items. Other maintenance items always pop up during the winter, so they go on the board too.

Cheers,
Mark
 
6322 said:
A good list Kevin. I also make a list of any deferred maintenance to remind me of the work I may want to accomplish prior to next riding season. Make sure to add to a calendar when registration and/or insurance registration may be due. When changing the brake fluid, I do this in the spring as over time it acquires moisture so hopfully it will be better longer. My bikes are on HF floating chargers any time they aren't on the road. I run the simple glassmat batteries, never had an issue and usually get better than five years on a battery. The last thing I do for winter is stud the tires and install my Hippo Hands on the dirt hack.
Click to expand...

Your registration actually expires.... how 20th century. :)
 
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