R1100 Trans swap & EVAP canister delete questions

I'm about to replace the transmission on my '99 R1100R (broke the right subframe mount on a trail ride a few weeks ago - I did order the GS hard parts kit to reinforce the mount) and I have a couple of questions before I tear into it. First off, I was planning on replacing the clutch friction disc while I'm in there. The bike has about 50k on it so I was wondering if there is any compelling reason to replace the whole clutch assembly instead of just the friction disc (the assembly is quite spendy). The trans I'm installing is a used unit from the same year and model with 30k on it according to the seller. I already have it - it's immaculate and the input splines are in like new condition - anything else I should inspect or pay attention to (without cracking the case open)?

Second unrelated question - the bike already had the canisterectomy when I bought it. Currently the vent lines are routed down the right side along the frame and tucked above the swingarm on the right side, but I've noticed that when full of fuel and especially on hot days I get some fuel dripping down on the swingarm and it's starting to discolor the paint. I don't really see anywhere else to aim it that it couldn't drip on the hot exhaust, just wondering what others have done with the vent lines - I assume I don't want to plug them.

Thanks!

Use a straightedge to measure the amount of “dishing” or taper that is worn into the clutch carrier and cover plate. At 50k you probably have some of that already, and if you replace just the friction disk you may end up with a grabby clutch that will take some time to wear down. BMW has always recommended replacing the entire 3-piece clutch pack. But if you don’t have more than just a very few thousandths of taper replacing just the disk is tempting.

Another option if the splines on the friction disk are good, is to send all three pieces to Southland Clutch in San Diego. They remachine the metal components back to true then reface the friction disk with new material that is thick enough to make up for the metal removed from the metal carrier and plate. Usually around $200 or so for the service.

On the vent, just extend the line to reach below the swingarm, routed just in front of the swingarm—and cut the end at a 45 degree angle. Just be aware that fuel dripping from those lines is one sign that the hose connections inside the tank, where it passes through the pump plate, may be leaking and allowing fuel into the vent line.

Best,
DeVern

GTRider said:

Use a straightedge to measure the amount of “dishing” or taper that is worn into the clutch carrier and cover plate. At 50k you probably have some of that already, and if you replace just the friction disk you may end up with a grabby clutch that will take some time to wear down. BMW has always recommended replacing the entire 3-piece clutch pack. But if you don’t have more than just a very few thousandths of taper replacing just the disk is tempting.

Another option if the splines on the friction disk are good, is to send all three pieces to Southland Clutch in San Diego. They remachine the metal components back to true then reface the friction disk with new material that is thick enough to make up for the metal removed from the metal carrier and plate. Usually around $200 or so for the service.

On the vent, just extend the line to reach below the swingarm, routed just in front of the swingarm—and cut the end at a 45 degree angle. Just be aware that fuel dripping from those lines is one sign that the hose connections inside the tank, where it passes through the pump plate, may be leaking and allowing fuel into the vent line.

Best,
DeVern

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Good suggestions, thank you. I'll take a look at the assembly when I get it apart before I make a decision, and will take a closer look inside the tank as I take it there *shouldn't* be fuel in the vent line - in my case there definitely is.

My vent lines are routed to just behind the rider's right footpeg; I have them loosely tie-wrapped together upstream from there, and very loosely tie-wrapped to the little vertical brake actuating arm to keep them in place. No issues.

Pauls1150 said:

My vent lines are routed to just behind the rider's right footpeg; I have them loosely tie-wrapped together upstream from there, and very loosely tie-wrapped to the little vertical brake actuating arm to keep them in place. No issues.

Click to expand...

Thanks - that's similar to what I have done, sounds like my issue with fuel leaking might be a problem inside the tank. I'm working on it today, just about have the trans out, so before I put it back together I will check that out.