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Thread: Tricks for re-keying the "Factory" case locks

  1. #1
    Registered User natrab's Avatar
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    Tricks for re-keying the "Factory" case locks

    Trying to save myself the 3 x $70 cost of ordering the re-keyable lock cylinders for my wife's R1200R. I managed to get the cap off one of the old cylinders to pull out the stupid locking bar, but mauled it so bad in the process that there's no way I could put it back together. They are staked into the body pretty well and I have yet to find a set of pliers or device to get them off without damaging them. Appreciate any advice.
    Current rides: 2013 R1200RT 90th - 111k miles & 2007 R1200S
    Previous BMWs: 2016 R1200RT, 2012 R1200GS Rallye, 2011 R1200RT-P, 2007 R1200S, 2006 R1200RT

  2. #2
    Fortis Fortuna Adiuvat Omega Man's Avatar
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    You can check the bottom of the page. The Tag Cloud has some help as well.
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  3. #3
    Registered User AntonLargiader's Avatar
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    There's no need to do any of that to re-key locks. If you are trying to grind the wafers to use a different key, just do it.. No need to take the cap off the lock cylinder.

    This is about the R1100-style locks, but it's almost the same for yours: http://largiader.com/tech/locks/double.html
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  4. #4
    Mario
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    Hereís a video that helped me. Be patient. Take your time. Itís easy. If itís ruined by a new one and key it yourself. https://youtu.be/br_RHmloVyE
    Good luck!

  5. #5
    Fortis Fortuna Adiuvat Omega Man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mario985 View Post
    Hereís a video that helped me. Be patient. Take your time. Itís easy. If itís ruined by a new one and key it yourself. https://youtu.be/br_RHmloVyE
    Good luck!
    Thanks and welcome to the forum!
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  6. #6
    Registered User AntonLargiader's Avatar
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    I need to make a lock video. That one is painful, and ten minutes of that?

    OP, you mentioned the wafers being staked in. I havenít seen staked in wafers since the old single-sided K and Airhead locks. Can you post a pic?
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  7. #7
    Pepperfool GSAddict's Avatar
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    The 1200's have a small brass rod that retains the tumblers that removes from under the cap.
    PITA to get the cap off nicely - doable but requires patience.
    I did not take pictures the last time, sorry.
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  8. #8
    Registered User AntonLargiader's Avatar
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    I've re-keyed plenty of those later side-cut ones (including R1200R side cases) and have never encountered that. The wafers I have do have the notch in the side where I assume that retention rod goes, but I've never had a wafer that didn't just slip out. Maybe they started using that rod later on.
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  9. #9
    Registered User natrab's Avatar
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    Hi. Sorry I didn't clarify earlier. I'm very familiar with rekeying the lock barrels. The difference is that my cases came with the factory locks that are keyed from the factory and have a metal bar going through all the wafers that prevents them from being removed to be re-keyed. The crimped on plate has to be removed to remove the bar and allow the wafers to be released. San Jose BMW did it for me once before and it would save me a significant amount to rekey the locks I have vs buying new ones (which are around $70 each nowadays).
    Current rides: 2013 R1200RT 90th - 111k miles & 2007 R1200S
    Previous BMWs: 2016 R1200RT, 2012 R1200GS Rallye, 2011 R1200RT-P, 2007 R1200S, 2006 R1200RT

  10. #10
    Registered User AntonLargiader's Avatar
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    I don't know why I haven't run into this yet. Maybe I've mostly done the smaller lock barrels, like the aluminum bags and the fuel caps usually use, which don't have the rod.

    If you have parts, I'm pretty sure you can put those wafers into older non-rod barrels from the 1100/1150 era. That is probably what I did for the R1200R bags I have done. I will check that next time I'm at the shop. I might have some barrels I can send you.
    Anton Largiader 72724
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