• Welcome, Guest! We hope you enjoy the excellent technical knowledge, event information and discussions that the BMW MOA forum provides. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please click the 'Log in' button above and enter your BMW MOA username and password.

    If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the discounts and benefits the BMW MOA offers?

  • Beginning April 1st, and running through April 30th, there is a new 2024 BMW MOA Election discussion area within The Club section of the forum. Within this forum area is also a sticky post that provides the ground rules for participating in the Election forum area. Also, the candidates statements are provided. Please read before joining the conversation, because the rules are very specific to maintain civility.

    The Election forum is here: Election Forum

ISO Trailer selection advice

ryeflyer

New member
Hello - I have a 2016 R1200RT and I am considering a trailer for it for a number of reasons. I would want an enclosed one, both for security and weather protection etc. plus carrying stuff for non motorocycle duties.

I would like a trailer that is large enough to take the bike plus some other traveling gear - mostly a few bags.

I am living in Northern Virginia - Warrenton - and have never trailered before. One big question - I think I would want twin/double axle so if one tire blows I can not be crippled on the side of the road and at least get it somewhere safer. Does that make sense?

Any names/types to look for or steer away from? l’d like the trailer to do other duties such as moving daughter gear down to Georgia!

PS I am driving a Tundra 4WD

TIA for any help
 
Hello - I have a 2016 R1200RT and I am considering a trailer for it for a number of reasons. I would want an enclosed one, both for security and weather protection etc. plus carrying stuff for non motorocycle duties.

I would like a trailer that is large enough to take the bike plus some other traveling gear - mostly a few bags.

I am living in Northern Virginia - Warrenton - and have never trailered before. One big question - I think I would want twin/double axle so if one tire blows I can not be crippled on the side of the road and at least get it somewhere safer. Does that make sense?

Any names/types to look for or steer away from? l’d like the trailer to do other duties such as moving daughter gear down to Georgia!

PS I am driving a Tundra 4WD

TIA for any help

IMHO, I would first consider using Uhaul, or similar. Typically, the Uhaul stuff is heavy duty and you don't have to maintain or store the thing. If you want a front wheel chock, mount one to a piece of 3/4 OSB and use existing tie-downs. Just my opinion.
 
If you are talking about using it like a shed at your house. I use a CarMate 24'. I store a car and two motorcycles in it. I installed a through the wall plug and run a space heater and battery chargers. Where I live it is easier than getting a permit for a shed.
 
ISO?
Anyway, if you use the “Tag Cloud” at the bottom of the page and search U-Haul trailer there are some good threads.
OM
 
If you are talking about using it like a shed at your house. I use a CarMate 24'. I store a car and two motorcycles in it. I installed a through the wall plug and run a space heater and battery chargers. Where I live it is easier than getting a permit for a shed.

Thanks - no I have the bike etc garaged.. What I am wanting is a trailer for taking the bike somewhere to where I really want to start riding. The Interstates are losing their appeal to me and I rather just get the bike to an area where I start riding it for a day or two.
 
I tow pretty regularly. I own three trailers, two single axle and a tandem axle. I’ve also towed many different rental trailers a fair bit, as well as helped friends/family tow trailers, singles and tandems.

I think you would be better off with a single axle trailer rather than the tandem. You don’t need the payload capacity of a tandem. A single axle will be lighter and significantly easier to maneuver, especially when backing. Less initial cost and ongoing maintenance, too. Yes, there is more risk in the event of a blowout, but those are rare and routine inspections (tire pressure, wear, etc) can help avoid them.

Check your Tundra owners manual and options sheet to determine whether it is properly equipped for towing (answer very likely is yes.) Confirm at what trailer weight Toyota wants the trailer to have its own brakes. Equipping the trailer with its own brakes adds to cost (purchase and maintenance) but increases your safety margin significantly.

There are several shops that sell trailers right along Rt 29 there between Warrenton and Charlottesville. Stop in and poke around a bit and see what they have on offer. You’ll want a ramp and plenty of headroom to ride the bike inside.
 
I agree that a single axle trailer is probably best for your needs. And your tire costs will be cut in half. I would strongly urge you to get a trailer with a fold down rear door that serves as the loading ramp.
 
I agree with previous posts that a single axle trailer will likely fulfill your needs, based on load requirements. If you're concerned about potential issues with a tire failure on a single axle system, TPMS (tire pressure monitoring systems) are reasonably inexpensive and can quickly alert you to any failure issues you may have.
 
I bought an Interstate 6 X 12 single axle cargo trailer about 20 years ago that has been all over this country, not hauling cycles so much as moving belongings during moves. It's been borrowed out to my nieces and nephews, and multiple times moving my kids around during and after their college years. You have lots of friends when you have a cargo trailer, if you are so inclined to loan it out. Mine went through a major hailstorm in 2016 and it is beat to hell, but I keep the roof maintained, there are no leaks, and it still works like a champ. I agree wholeheartedly with the advice others have given, get a single axle unit with a ramp door. It'll treat you well. I tossed around the idea of buying a new one but until I can keep it indoors, which may never happen, I'll continue to use this one. It isn't pretty anymore, but it does the job. Kinda like me I guess. :)
 
One thing not said yet get a good hitch, tongue or wheel LOCK. To prevent the trailer from being stolen. Wheel lock are the best I think from my past experience. When your boss says to you "go fine the trailer that was stolen last night" at your job site. :banghead
 
Invest in good trailer tires.

A single axle trailer is fine, but to ensure you don't have an issue, put some high quality Goodyear Endurance trailer tires on it and a TPMS to check pressures. Also, use bearing buddies and keep those properly greased.

Trailer wheel & tire failures are preventable, and are no joke when they happen. Quality, pressure and greased bearings will prevent issues.

Google "china bomb" tires...
 
I’m not a real fan of Bearing Buddies as they only, for the most part, supply grease to the outer bearing. The E-Z Lube axels have a grease fitting in the end of the axel and channel that brings grease into the space between the bearings.
Grease does seem to “stiffen up” a bit so I use a tool that is made for unclogging grease fittings to inject WD-40 into the bearing area (carefully) then a few shots of grease.
I find it’s good to jack up the trailer and spin/wiggle/listen to the wheels if I haven’t used the trailer in a while....... and in between a repacking.
OM
 
I wouldn't bother with Bearing Buddies either. Just do a proper repack once in a while. It isn't something you need to do very often. Also a quick feel of the hub at gas stops will save your butt. If the hub is warm it needs attention.

I use a cargo trailer at work often, probably average 250 miles a week. I had the trailer brakes and hubs serviced last spring, first time in over eight years, maybe longer.
 
I wouldn't bother with Bearing Buddies either. Just do a proper repack once in a while. It isn't something you need to do very often. Also a quick feel of the hub at gas stops will save your butt. If the hub is warm it needs attention.

I use a cargo trailer at work often, probably average 250 miles a week. I had the trailer brakes and hubs serviced last spring, first time in over eight years, maybe longer.

Bearing buddies are a great invention for boat trailers where the bearings get dunked in water every time a boat is launched or retrieved. But for a cargo or motorcycle trailer they are much less needed.
 
I just sold my 2010 Tundra that I used to tow motorcycles for many miles. We had an 18 foot enclosed, tandem axle trailer that we used to tow bikes and other stuff from Alaska to Montana; a single axle 12 foot trailer with a rear ramp that we used to tow bikes every now and then and a variety of building materials, lawn tractors and ATVs; and, finally we recently got an 18 foot flat bed, tandem axle trailer that we can get two Ural sidecars on. My opinion: Get a trailer a bit larger than you think you will need. For one bike I think a 12 footer is appropriate. Get a trailer with at least 15 inch (rim size) tires. Trailers with tiny tires scare the hell out of me, and the bearings are more likely to fail. Get the tilt down ramp on the back; makes life much easier. Install a tie down system and invest in some quality straps. Harbor Freight sells a decent tie down system for Harbor Freight prices. You probably do not need a tandem axle, but if it comes down to a choice of a trailer with a single axle or one with two, I would go for two. Tandem axle trailers are much easier to control when backing up, and as you alluded to, you can still continue with a flat. There are many crappy trailers for sale today and it is difficult to determine quality sometimes. So do some home work before you buy.
 
Trailer

I have a 10 foot enclosed cargo trailer and use it a lot even haul motorcycles in it. I put cargo tracks on the Floor for the full length of the trailer have the harbor freight wheel chock that locks wheel in ( on the 2x3 foot plywood ) use 4 cam lock cargo straps to tie bike down. When it’s time to load I open back door/ ramp ride the bike up the ramp into the chock (I screw the plywood to floor to keep it from sliding ) step off fasten to straps at back than front to 2 straps ( in the enclosed trailer the cam lock straps not blowing in the wind seldom loosen, get good straps and pull them evenly tight to keep bike straight up ). With the front wheel chock on plywood it is easy to move to another trailer or pick up truck bed.
To haul 2 bikes in my 10 x 6 ft trailer I also put cargo tracks on each side, than use 2 of the cheap harbor freight chocks to hold the bikes. I put first bike in trailer leaving room for 2nd bike than take cheap chock and screw it directly to floor than put 2 front straps on, next 2nd bike put in trailer front wheel chock put in place than a combo of high and low tie down points are used to hold bikes.
The 10 foot single axle trailer has a 3,500 lb load capacity and like someone else said use the load range D tires
All the other stuff you haul or use the trailer for is just a useful bonus
 
I’m not a real fan of Bearing Buddies as they only, for the most part, supply grease to the outer bearing. The E-Z Lube axels have a grease fitting in the end of the axel and channel that brings grease into the space between the bearings.
Grease does seem to “stiffen up” a bit so I use a tool that is made for unclogging grease fittings to inject WD-40 into the bearing area (carefully) then a few shots of grease.
I find it’s good to jack up the trailer and spin/wiggle/listen to the wheels if I haven’t used the trailer in a while....... and in between a repacking.
OM

Yes, you are correct. I used the colloquial name when there genuinely is a difference. My trailer has the EZ Lube by Dexter.
 
Over the last 1 1/2 years my wife and I have been pulling a 14x7x7 enclosed cargo trailer for our motorcycles. During this time we have logged some 15k miles on the trailer and about the same on the bikes. Things that we considered when buying and building out the trailer. First is loading/unloading the bikes, tieing down the bikes, storage of stuff, we also put in a kitchen and shower. The trailer is configurable to make hauling easy and living easy.

This may be overkill for your needs but if you are just hauling here are some notable consideration. Install excellent wheel chock(s). I would recommend something like a Condor that can be removed if needed. An excellent wheel chock will minimize the requirements for the tie down system. I only use two tie downs per bike and the are self tightening. Make sure there is enough room in the trailer to move around to lock down the bike(s) and get to your stuff. Think 3 dimensionally, Overhead cabinets, the ability too easily move things to reconfigure for when you are parked or using fo other things.

Lay the trailer out on the garage floor with masking tape before you buy a trailer. Put your bike and stuff on the floor inside the tape box and increase and decrease the box to fit your needs. Single or tandem axel is your preference. Mine is a tandem axel but it is loaded to nearly 5000 lbs. To me the width and height of the trailer is more important than the length. Is the trailer wide enough to walk around the bike and tie it down? Can you stand upright? Can my stuff fit and can I get to it?

Just some thoughts based on our experiences.
 
Over the last 1 1/2 years my wife and I have been pulling a 14x7x7 enclosed cargo trailer for our motorcycles. During this time we have logged some 15k miles on the trailer and about the same on the bikes. Things that we considered when buying and building out the trailer. First is loading/unloading the bikes, tieing down the bikes, storage of stuff, we also put in a kitchen and shower. The trailer is configurable to make hauling easy and living easy.

This may be overkill for your needs but if you are just hauling here are some notable consideration. Install excellent wheel chock(s). I would recommend something like a Condor that can be removed if needed. An excellent wheel chock will minimize the requirements for the tie down system. I only use two tie downs per bike and the are self tightening. Make sure there is enough room in the trailer to move around to lock down the bike(s) and get to your stuff. Think 3 dimensionally, Overhead cabinets, the ability too easily move things to reconfigure for when you are parked or using fo other things.

Lay the trailer out on the garage floor with masking tape before you buy a trailer. Put your bike and stuff on the floor inside the tape box and increase and decrease the box to fit your needs. Single or tandem axel is your preference. Mine is a tandem axel but it is loaded to nearly 5000 lbs. To me the width and height of the trailer is more important than the length. Is the trailer wide enough to walk around the bike and tie it down? Can you stand upright? Can my stuff fit and can I get to it?

Just some thoughts based on our experiences.

It would be nice to see some pictures of your “Toy Hauler” conversion. I started a thread on some of my thoughts-

https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthrea...rt-an-enclosed-trailer-to-a-camper-toy-hauler
TIA.
OM
 
Back
Top