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Thread: Rocker arm adjust

  1. #1

    Rocker arm adjust

    Hello again. Two questions.
    Any have the left side cam adjuster come loose? Iíve had to tighten mine several times. After another two months, I noticed a little oil seeping again, is this normal or am I just not getting enough torque on it?

    And the rocker arms.
    My bike is super noisy from the heads, adjusted the valves last month, no change in noise, not that I thought there would be. Iím looking to adjust the rocker arm gap tomorrow, followed by the valves again. The power on the bike is fine I have no issues other than it being super loud clackity clacking.

    Iíve found a few pages on the web that give a little run down but still not sure.
    Says you loosen the 3 T45 bolts, as well as the one nut, or is there two?
    Then checking the gap, you check the gap on the bottom of the rocker arm from what Iíve gathered right?
    Then fiddle with tightening. You tighten the torx bolts first or the nut?

    Appreciate any pointers. Have a Trip from Miami to Asheville next week. Looking to mosey out to the dragon as well as ride the blue ridge. Be nice if the bike was quieter.

  2. #2
    Iím looking at the parts diagram...Maybe Iím using the wrong names.
    Am I trying to adjust the cam shaft supporting bracket?

  3. #3
    For the tensioner you should get and install a new crush washer.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by PGlaves View Post
    For the tensioner you should get and install a new crush washer.
    Believe i will do that today after work, worth the dollar and change. Who knows if the previous owner replaced his when he did the tensioner swap, because it does look like itís the 17mm head. They say the original is 15mm? I have no idea if Iím getting the right torque with this wrench. I mean itís only like 25ft lbs I think. Worth trying a new crush washer at least.

  5. #5
    Registered User lkchris's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Albuquerque, NM
    The original is 17, the replacement is 15
    Kent Christensen
    '12 R1200RT, '02 R1100S

  6. #6
    15mm, I knew I had the updated one just forgot the size. Got the washer after work, did the job, the thing was loose, hardly any force to get it spinning off, guess I just have to watch it. Feels like Iím wrenching it on hard we will see, likes to vibrate loose I guess.

    May go for the rocker arm gaps tomorrow, not too sure though. Forgot itís the distinguished gentlemenís ride, plan to take part in it.

  7. #7
    Opened up the heads, valve clearance is good, rocker arm clearance was mid range, loosened and tried to adjust the right side, donít even know if I was able to really shrink the gap, interesting job. Loosen measure tighten measure loosen measure tighten measure. I left the right side the best I could, gaps were about .15 intake and .17ish exhaust, so on the lower side of the slot. Checked the left again, they were at just about the same gaps so I didnít even touch it.

    Makes me think all the rattling is something else.

    Just keep riding I guess, Itís my everyday ride, I put on nearly 2000 miles a month, noise is just a little annoying but not too too bad.

  8. #8
    MOA #24991 Pauls1150's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    south of Los Angeles
    What spec are you setting the valve clearances to?
    With the engine Dead Cold, intake should be 0.006" and exhaust 0.012"; I set mine "just a hair" loose (tho some on this forum argue against that).
    Are you familiar with what that clearance should actually "feel" like with the gauge in place? Should be just a bit of drag, not sloppy easy. It's also a good idea to do to both intakes, and both exhausts, at the same time to minimize the rocker arm's "tilt" on the rocker shaft. Verify that the line on the cam sprocket is exactly horizontal when doing this adjustment.

    There have also been a few bikes that have had their pushrods' end caps slip out of the pushrod end - I don't think you can see that without pulling the rocker arm. There is a newer version of the pushrods to replace them with if that is the problem.

    If there is any issue with "who did the tensioner swap", maybe pull it and verify that all the parts are there and it looks like the pictures in other Oilhead threads here.

  9. #9
    Intakes are .15mm and exhaust .3mm with the feelers from beemer boneyard. I put the feelers in there wherever they’d slide, and they do.
    I set the gaps so all 4 feelers are held barely steady, so I’d say they may be ever so slightly loose. For if they loose their balance they’ll fall out with the heavy handles.
    I did the valves last month, but rechecked while doing the work today.

    The goal today was to get rid of the tapping noise. If I’m following the write ups I found online about the rocker arm gaps, they should be measured at the bottom of the arm right? Loosen the 3 torx bolts and the one head nut, measure the gap between the two and retighten?

    It sounds like I may have gotten rid of some of the noise, doesn’t seem as loud now. But maybe it’s all in my head
    I watched some YouTube about the pushrods. I guess that’d be the next thing to check if anything. But I’m satisfied with today’s study.

    The tensioner had a silver crush washer, that was really a pain in the ass to get off. Almost thought it was part of the part, till I looked up photos and verified. Maybe an old style washer? Shrug. Replaced with the copper BMW washer.

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