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2014 RT - where is the 50 amp fuse??

A three phase stator should have a low resistance between any two leads and
infinite resistance between any lead and ground.

Sent from my SM-T813 using Tapatalk
 
The search continues for the 50 amp fuse. I have removed almost all the bodywork, the battery, and even the gas tank looking for this elusive fuse, but I remain unsuccessful.
I then followed the three wires from the back of the engine (which should be from the stator) to the rectifier and pulled the plug.
I tested the resistance between the 2 wires, 2 at a time and all combinations came back 0 ohms. I then switched to continuity mode and tested again. All combinations gave a signal sound.
I assume this means the stator has failed, IS THAT CORRECT

You should have a resistance between .4 - 2.0 Ohms between stator terminals. All readings should be approximately the same but not 0.
There should be infinite resistance between the terminals and ground. No continuity at all.

View attachment stator_check.pdf
 
Just tested the stator leads again. all three wires show 0.00 resistance to ground and when I switch to a continuity check, they all sound a signal when tested to ground.
Doesn’t sound good.
 
Just tested the stator leads again. all three wires show 0.00 resistance to ground and when I switch to a continuity check, they all sound a signal when tested to ground.
Doesn’t sound good.

I am not sure what you are doing. I would set my VOM to resistance (Ohms) and test as follows:

1. Each individual lead should show "open" - infinite resistance to ground.

2. The resistance between each pair of the three wires should be just a few Ohms, and all of the readings should be approximately the same.

OR

In the case where you say you are testing for continuity you should have none between any of the leads and ground and some between each pair of the three wires.

If in fact each lead has continuity to ground then something is shorted to ground somewhere.
 
Thank you all for the replies.
You have confirmed my worst fears, all three leads have continuity to ground.
Bad stator.
 
I have to ask, how old is the battery?
I have a hard time working my way through these kinds of tests. I usually have to work my way through these tests a number of different ways. I don’t do it often enough.
Bad or old batteries I’m pretty good at.
OM
 
Are you using an autoranging meter or do you set the resistance range? If you're using a meter where you have to set the resistance you should be setting it on the lowest range.
 
Analog meters are not necessarily the best choice for close-to-zero measurements: they can apply too much voltage or current to the unit under test and damage it. It's been long enough for me that I forget the exact particulars, but especially if your meter has a large battery - some older Simpsons have a 28 volt battery in there - in the lowest range (x1Ω) and highest range (x100KΩ) they will source too much of one or the other.

Use another meter connected directly to the analog meter to see what happens: in one range you'll see the big battery's voltage, and in the other range you'll see how much current it can put out - set the other meter to "high" current so you don't kill it or blow its fuse.
 
Analog meters are not necessarily the best choice for close-to-zero measurements: they can apply too much voltage or current to the unit under test and damage it. It's been long enough for me that I forget the exact particulars, but especially if your meter has a large battery - some older Simpsons have a 28 volt battery in there - in the lowest range (x1Ω) and highest range (x100KΩ) they will source too much of one or the other.

Use another meter connected directly to the analog meter to see what happens: in one range you'll see the big battery's voltage, and in the other range you'll see how much current it can put out - set the other meter to "high" current so you don't kill it or blow its fuse.

Simpson 260

X1.jpg

X100.jpg

X10000.jpg
 
That looks OK for the x1 range; is x10K the max on that??

I may be thinking of the Triplett (model 630NA?) ... my only excuse is that i retired over ten years ago! :gerg
 
Talking to the service tech yesterday he mentioned the 50 amp fuse. I does not exist on early model 2014s. He wasn't sure when it was introduced. My 2014 was the first one delivered to the US. I have gone through batteries quickly on this bike. Trying to check drain we found over 12v with only the positive to the battery and checking between the negative terminal on the battery and the disconnected ground cable. When the power to the auxiliary positive post was remove the voltage went away. My chore down is to trace the wire and see if there is any problem areas. Battery is charging ok but discharging too rapidly. As to the 50 amp fuse if an RT has the fuse it is between the right frame rail and the computer.
 
Fuse ever found??

Milo, I just returned from a trip out west, about 5,000 miles. On the last day, I lost charging and limped home on the battery alone. I have an early 2014 R1200RT purchased in 2015 by a dear friend. I too have been looking for the 50 amp fuse. Did you ever find it? Thanks!
 
I’ll check for one on my ‘14 this weekend. Is there an indication anywhere on the bike of the date of manufacture?
 
What I found out...

I found this last night after doing my nightly random searching for the 50 amp fuse solution:

https://www.advrider.com/f/threads/a...1508090/page-2

my search criteria were:

"another gsw stator failure adventure rider"

I'm not touching anything I have all parts in hand. With that said, I'm going to order fuse parts tonight!

Nothing ventured... Nothing gained.
 
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