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Thread: Engine drip: 1997 K1100LT

  1. #1
    Supporting our Vets jers99lt's Avatar
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    Engine drip: 1997 K1100LT

    Hi All,

    In front of the oil filter plate, there's a vertical 'port' that has a dark liquid weeping from it. It has built up
    a light sludge from the 'port' down to the oil filter plate after 1500mi. What is this 'port'?
    Location is also below and in front of the water pump.

    Thanks for any further Qs and possible solutions to stop this mess.
    Jer
    Jerry Palma
    99 K1200LTI Champagne 'Oh, Kay' (dropped: 6); 97 K1100LT Aspen Silver Night 'The Silver Knight';
    I love these bikes regardless of what I've needed to fix on them. I'll: Just Ride 'em!

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by jers99lt View Post
    Hi All,

    In front of the oil filter plate, there's a vertical 'port' that has a dark liquid weeping from it. It has built up
    a light sludge from the 'port' down to the oil filter plate after 1500mi. What is this 'port'?
    Location is also below and in front of the water pump.

    Thanks for any further Qs and possible solutions to stop this mess.
    Jer
    Pictures would help me a lot to help you.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  3. #3
    Supporting our Vets jers99lt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PGlaves View Post
    Pictures would help me a lot to help you.
    Hi Paul,

    I believe I found out that this isn't 'normal', so going to have it looked at.

    Thanks for your response,
    Jer
    Jerry Palma
    99 K1200LTI Champagne 'Oh, Kay' (dropped: 6); 97 K1100LT Aspen Silver Night 'The Silver Knight';
    I love these bikes regardless of what I've needed to fix on them. I'll: Just Ride 'em!

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by jers99lt View Post
    Hi Paul,

    I believe I found out that this isn't 'normal', so going to have it looked at.

    Thanks for your response,
    Jer
    I'm positive it isn't normal. But I couldn't visualize what is in front of the oil filter plate that I would see as a port. The common things are the oil sight glass and the oil pressure sending unit but these are on the side of the engine case.

    A leak at the seam between the main engine case and the timing case cover is possible at a location forward of the oil filter access plate I guess.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  5. #5
    3 Red Bricks
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    Sounds like the weep hole between the water pump and the oil pump.

    Drip from that hole indicates a seeping oil pump shaft seal or a seeping water pump shaft seal.




    LONG MAY YOUR BRICK FLY!

    Ride Safe, Ride Far, Ride Often

    Lee Fulton Forum Moderator
    3 Marakesh Red K75Ss
    Mine, Hers, Spare

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by 98lee View Post
    Sounds like the weep hole between the water pump and the oil pump.

    Drip from that hole indicates a seeping oil pump shaft seal or a seeping water pump shaft seal.
    Yeah, why didn't I think of that??
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  7. #7
    Supporting our Vets jers99lt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98lee View Post
    Sounds like the weep hole between the water pump and the oil pump.

    Drip from that hole indicates a seeping oil pump shaft seal or a seeping water pump shaft seal.




    Thanks so much for the responses. I will have the 'Pros' tend to the fix. Way beyond my maintenance-only skills.

    Have fun,
    Jer
    Jerry Palma
    99 K1200LTI Champagne 'Oh, Kay' (dropped: 6); 97 K1100LT Aspen Silver Night 'The Silver Knight';
    I love these bikes regardless of what I've needed to fix on them. I'll: Just Ride 'em!

  8. #8
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    Jerry,

    Before you "open your wallet", clean the area thoroughly.

    Then see how much comes out again in how many miles. Is it oil or coolant? Has the corresponding fluid level dropped noticeably?

    Has the bike been sitting for an extended period of time? Is the bike new to you? Sometimes, on a bike that has sat for years, the seals can harden a bit and cause a SMALL seep that will diminish with use. A very small leak can make a big mess.

    The repair is not cheap, so you want to be sure that you need it.




    LONG MAY YOUR BRICK FLY!

    Ride Safe, Ride Far, Ride Often

    Lee Fulton Forum Moderator
    3 Marakesh Red K75Ss
    Mine, Hers, Spare

  9. #9
    Supporting our Vets jers99lt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98lee View Post
    Jerry,

    Before you "open your wallet", clean the area thoroughly.

    Then see how much comes out again in how many miles. Is it oil or coolant? Has the corresponding fluid level dropped noticeably?

    Has the bike been sitting for an extended period of time? Is the bike new to you? Sometimes, on a bike that has sat for years, the seals can harden a bit and cause a SMALL seep that will diminish with use. A very small leak can make a big mess.

    The repair is not cheap, so you want to be sure that you need it.




    Yes, bike is new to me. Only had >20,000mi last Nov. A 23yo bike with that low miles might have sat a lot. I've cleaned it to see where the 'gunk' building up was coming from. Appeared to be the weep hole, but really wanted to see it start happening. I really like the idea of riding to, hopefully, diminish the leakage. We'll see.
    Thanks so much.
    Have fun,
    Jer
    Jerry Palma
    99 K1200LTI Champagne 'Oh, Kay' (dropped: 6); 97 K1100LT Aspen Silver Night 'The Silver Knight';
    I love these bikes regardless of what I've needed to fix on them. I'll: Just Ride 'em!

  10. #10
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    Jerry,

    Ride it, clean it, repeat (and repeat).

    Keep doing that (unless it is a constant drip) until you can tell if it is getting better or worse. Monitor your fluid levels. This could take quite some time and miles (more reason to go for long rides. "Honestly dear, I HAVE TO go for another test ride.")

    The radiator cap is under the right front corner of the fuel tank. You need to move the tank back to get at it. You need to be SURE that the radiator is FULL at the RADIATOR CAP, not just at the overflow bottle. The level at the overflow bottle does not always mean that the radiator is full. Check it at the cap when you first get the bike and then AT LEAST once a year after that, unless you notice a cooling issue.

    Also check the hose between the cap and the overflow bottle. A crack in this hose will suck air into the radiator.




    LONG MAY YOUR BRICK FLY!

    Ride Safe, Ride Far, Ride Often

    Lee Fulton Forum Moderator
    3 Marakesh Red K75Ss
    Mine, Hers, Spare

  11. #11
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    There was a time when the water/oil pumps were being rebuilt. BMW even sold the necessary seals. It was a tricky process.
    I think they may have discontinued the repair kits, meaning you'd have to buy the entire pump assembly, which was several hundred dollars even back then.
    A cheaper option is find someone parting out a K and just buy their pump. They're out there, and the replacement job is pretty straight forward.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeffDiCarlo View Post
    There was a time when the water/oil pumps were being rebuilt. BMW even sold the necessary seals. It was a tricky process.
    I think they may have discontinued the repair kits, meaning you'd have to buy the entire pump assembly, which was several hundred dollars even back then.
    A cheaper option is find someone parting out a K and just buy their pump. They're out there, and the replacement job is pretty straight forward.
    Jeff,


    A new pump now lists for $907 (plus installation). Even more reason to be SURE that the pump is really leaking and won't improve with use. One of the seals is a ceramic seal that the smallest piece of contamination will cause it to leak, but will SOMETIMES flush itself clean with use. The other seal is a buna-n lip seal that could soften with use if it has been sitting.

    Seals are still available for around $50. If the shaft is bad, that's another $250. Then there is the labor cost to rebuild or the real possibility that it is above the skill level of the owner to properly rebuild the pump and not have it still leak.

    I still vote to ride and see if it improves on a new to owner bike.

    But after that, your option has merit, IF you can find a pump from a bike that was recently being ridden and the pump was not leaking.



    Last edited by 98lee; 09-25-2020 at 01:02 AM.
    LONG MAY YOUR BRICK FLY!

    Ride Safe, Ride Far, Ride Often

    Lee Fulton Forum Moderator
    3 Marakesh Red K75Ss
    Mine, Hers, Spare

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