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new to me 1974 r90/6

2010rt

New member
s-l1600.jpgI bought a new to me 1974 r90/6 It has fenders that look original but they plastic and not steel, can anyone tell me if they should be plastic or steel?? Thanks!
 
Really nice looking example with correct fiberglass fenders. Has the (sorta rare) 1974 kick starter. They were weak so it is not recommended to use them. The '74 being a transition year to the 5 speed gearbox, they had some issues about which, the /6 guys can tell you.
 
Kick start

I had one of the 74 bikes for a short time. I was told never use the kick start for anything but a dead battery. They were prone to breakage. I have a kick start on my 78RS, I have used it once when the relay conked out on me. After getting the bike started, I thanked God for the fellow who invented electric start.

There is another air head thread right now covering issues with the weak gearbox. St.
 
I had one of the 74 bikes for a short time. I was told never use the kick start for anything but a dead battery. They were prone to breakage. I have a kick start on my 78RS, I have used it once when the relay conked out on me. After getting the bike started, I thanked God for the fellow who invented electric start.

There is another air head thread right now covering issues with the weak gearbox. St.

As I recall, 1975 was the first year the kick starter was an option.
 
I learned to use the kick start while at the same time engaging the electric start, if the weather was cold or the battery was weak. Worked everytime, with no breakage.
 
Thanks for the good tips, I have been using the kit starter, so I will stop. I am sure I will have other questions as time goes on. Thanks!!
 
Kicker

I restored one 74 R90S, the kicker was standard on it. I started to restore another R90S, the kicker was also on it.

My 78 R100RS is a European specification bike it has a kicker but I think in 75, BMW stopped installing them on US bikes.

I wanted one on my 84 R80RT and was told one could be installed but why bother. A 84 R100RT from Canada is in the shop now, it has a kicker.

I guess BMW didn't think US riders were able to figure out how to use them.

The one time I used the kicker on my 78, was far easier than running along and bump starting it. The starter relay had given up the ghost and the there was only two alternatives to getting it started. Run like hell jump on and bump start or kick.

I have had my RT refuse to electric start a few times. Each time I have cursed myself for not having a kicker installed. I am not done riding so someday if the right combination of parts comes along I may still have one installed. St.
 
I knew a guy that switched from BMW to Gold Wing because of the switch to fiberglass fenders.
 
Kick starters are highly overrated imho and certainly hardly worth the trouble of retrofitting.

My experience is with my R80G/S which had one factory fitted (small battery) and could differ from other Airheads.

First of all, it's not fair to complain about the fact that the G/S was so tall on its centerstand, one probably needed to stand on a stool to operate the kickstart. I'm 6-3. Perhaps if one had an iron aftermarket centerstand you could try kickstarting with bike on sidestand, but I'd guess there would still be some suspension bounce.

But anyway, it's not a one-kick process. I needed to apply multiple short strokes in short order to get the engine spinning before it would start. The lever only rotates a quarter turn. This with electronic ignition. After a bit that automatically shut itself off and I needed to cycle ignition off/on to continue. I'd guess it might be even less fun with a not absolutely perfect points ignition.

Bikes with CV carbs don't have ticklers, so one has to rely on the enricheners to get the required mixture. When cold, that means you need a little throttle in addition, which is difficult to apply when kicking. Again, I admit big bars on G/S.

If you're a wait until it fails maintainer, you could have problems, but regular battery maintenance and replacement are a better and easier solution. Again, you're more likely to need kickstart with the small battery, less likely necessary with the large one.
 
Kick starters are highly overrated imho and certainly hardly worth the trouble of retrofitting.

Speaking of 1923 technology, I still remember the hand crank on my uncle's 1930s vintage Allis Chalmers tractor. He very carefully showed me to spin the crank by pulling on it instead of pushing on it so a backfire would only yank it out of my hand instead of breaking my arm.

I also fondly recall attempting to kick start a BSA 441 Victor with my lean 140 pound body. If I had begun attempting to become a rider back in those kickstart days I would be a car enthusiast or a train enthusiast or something.
 
How to really fire off the engine with the kick lever

Oh how I loved my 61 R50. Got it as a true basket case in 3 milk cases/boxes. Needed it for a VA voc/rehab project for my small engine class for my Industrial Arts degree. The VA paid for all of my tuition and supplies.....So, taking a small engine class demanded for me to have a small engine to overhaul. Most of the guys did B&S lawn mower engines but of course ol Dennis had to do it his way...........

Okay so got it rebuilt, installed in the rehabed frame and YES.......IT STARTED......

Sometimes easier than others. I learned from an expert to do the following..........straddle the bike standing on the foot pegs with the bike, on it's centerstand. Lean down on the bars and crack the throttle just a bit. Engage the starter lever with your left instep of your boot......Now put your weight on it and kick down til it stops.........NOW THE REAL TRICK....REPEAT THE PROCESS OF KICKING AT THE RATE OF 1 KICK EVERY 2 SECONDS OR SO.....What you really are doing is getting the tractor flywheel weight spinning and it is just a matter of the thing firing over......

Ok, so yes, you should actually get the thing tuned with the precision that the Engineers designed it for. The thing is supposed to start easily at -4F outside of Stalingrad.......thats another set of stories.......

Really though have it tuned as best that you can. Now is where cranking it over by hand with the kick starter, or your rope starter on your lawn mower. What you are feeling for is TDC compression stroke and stopping there.....Now with a mighty whooomph you kick through and she fires off........WHAT IS REALLY COOL is to push down with the palm of your hand on that lever......Truly amazes the die hard 12 year olds and the over 65 crew.......

God bless........Dennis
 
My older brother attended the U of MN in winter 1952. His transportation was a '51 BSA Gold Star single - kept outside. It had no key whatsoever. Figured if anyone tried to steal it he'd just have to look for the nearest broken leg.
 
kicking

My cousin bought a Suzuki GT380 and rode it to work. He used to get a kick out of the guys who rode Harleys kicking and kicking their bikes to get them started. While he did have electric start on the Suzuki, he would peeve the HD guys by snapping the kick start lever on his bike by hand once, then riding off. St.
 
Speaking of 1923 technology, I still remember the hand crank on my uncle's 1930s vintage Allis Chalmers tractor. He very carefully showed me to spin the crank by pulling on it instead of pushing on it so a backfire would only yank it out of my hand instead of breaking my arm.

I also fondly recall attempting to kick start a BSA 441 Victor with my lean 140 pound body. If I had begun attempting to become a rider back in those kickstart days I would be a car enthusiast or a train enthusiast or something.

You also had to make sure you held the crank with your thumb on the same side as your fingers. If not, when it yanked out of your hand it would break your thumb. We had an old vintage Allis around the farm when I was growing up as well.
 
new question

I love how a fender question turns into a 2 page discussion on a bunch of topics!! Anyhow, I would like to get the seat redone, the new seats offered by BMW have changed a bit, the lines on the original seat run the long way, the new seats runs across the seat, plus I did not see the R90/6 badge on the back of the new seat, so, does anyone know of a good seat person or company that can recover the original seat the way it looks now? Thanks!!!

Scott
 
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