Replacing fuel hoses on my 1986 R80 RT and i think i broke something

I bought my 1986 R 80 RT from a friend two months ago. I’ve been replacing parts and cleaning the gas tank. Today I started replacing the fuel hoses because who knows how old they are? When I took the top off of the engine I think I broke a line. or it was already broken. I’m going to try to post a few pictures. i just joined MOA today so bear with me please. I checked my Haynes manual, but there is no diagram of the emission control parts that live under that cover. I’m holding the line in my fingers and it looks like it connects to a small rubber hose below it. Does anyone recognize what hose that is?
Also is there a safe way to remove all of that emission control stuff under that cover without affecting the bikes performance? We don’t have State Inspection in Wyoming, so i don't have to worry about that. Thanks for your help. Bill

Welcome to the forum, Bill! BTW, did you happen to see Brook's latest post? He shows these pieces/parts under the cover which should give you an idea of where things go:

https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthrea...Rebuild-Project-Journal&p=1218283#post1218283

As for some of the emissions stuff, check out Snowbum's link here for what can be done to reduce the clutter, as it were!

https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/pulseair.htm

Anti pollution stuff

BMW put some kind of gas tank vent system on the newer airheads. The parts fiche for the bike shows a bunch of extra parts added above and beyond the pulse air injection system.

I am all for removing and plugging the pulse air system and have done so on my bike. It is not hard to do. Articles exist on the web as to parts needed and procedure. See Snow bum, or the fellows listed below.

As to the gas tank venting system I think is the problem here, I haven't a clue, dig further into Snow bum's, Brook's, Anton Largiader's, and other sources there are ways to remove this system as well.

Max BMW microfiche for the bike shows all the parts involved should you want to make repairs. Just a hint, you would be surprised at the selection of universal plastic fittings found in the local Auto parts shop. If you need a plastic part, the part you need may be on the shelf there for less than from BMW. Or, there may be something that will work as well.

I find a Chilton's manual is better than the Hayes manual for repair, neither are perfect unfortunately.

While you have the bike disassembled, now would be the time to look into getting rid of these two systems. St.

If you want to remove that emission system and simplify things Ted Porter at the Beemer Shop, put a kit together with all the bits you need. I bought one from him a few years ago. I'm sure he still sells the kit.

Ted's kit

Just so every one knows, the kits available to remove the pulse air injection system only contain the parts needed to remove the pulse air system.

They do not contain the parts needed to address the removal of the fuel tank venting system I think we are dealing with here. They are two different animals.

Further digging in Snow bum's site or some airhead site will of course turn up instructions as to how to remove the vent system. I know there have been write ups, I'm just too lazy to look for them right now, LOL.

From my experience, the removal of the pulse air system was easy. One thing I did find out was the proper lock tight must be used on the plugs inserted into the heads. I am ashamed to say, shortly after I did the removal, they loosened up and I had a leak. Now I have them properly lock tightened, I have no further problems.

I didn't have the gas tank vent system on my bike so I have no clue as to how hard it is to remove or modify it. Cheers. St.

I couldn't find the kit on Ted's site. Since it is technically illegal (I'm guessing), he's not going to advertise it.

Thanks for aiming me in the right direction.

I found Snowbum's post and read it all and checked out his recommended readings from other sites. And I followed the recommendations from everyone here. I think I'm well on my way to removing the stuff from my airbox and under the starter cover. And I discovered that the previous owner apparently replaced the right hand petcock, on the left side with a left side Karcoma petcock, so I don't have to buy one to make the fuel hoses connect more harmoniously. The one thing I haven't found is a clear picture of the fuel hoses once the modification is done. I'm a visual learner, and although I'm 99 percent sure I know where they should go, I always feel better if I can look at a picture. It looks like older models just have the fuel hose running from the petcock to the carburetor. And that's it. No connecting the two carbs together. Is that how my set up should look?
The last question is: when I set up my profile yesterday, I selected Mountain Time Zone because I live in Wyoming. But my posts show that I'm in another time zone on the other side of the planet, I looked but I can't find where I go to correct that.
Now, back to work. I'm saving the parts that I remove in case I sell the bike to someone who lives in a state that has inspection. Or if I die and my wife sells it to someone who wants a perfectly restored bike and wants all of that stuff back on. The world is not a perfect place. Bill

Bill -

As for fuel lines, it is my understanding that all Airheads have a fuel line running from the petcock to each side carb but in that line is a t-connector which then joins a line going to the other side fuel line. I think this should be done although not completely necessary. However, when you get down near the bottom of the tank, you will be getting fuel from the saddles in the tank. If there is a lower gas amount on one side, then the bike will only run on one cylinder. The cross-line helps with that issue. Another small tip...if you should do the unthinkable and completely run out of gas after going through both reserves, there is a small amount of hope. Remove the tank, tilt the tank to one side of the other to bring the small amount of fuel that is below the outlet of the tank, and voila, you might have enough gas to go 5-10 miles...it could make all the difference!

As for time settings, under Settings and General Settings, there is the time zone that you choose which it sounds like you did. But be sure and click on Save Changes at the bottom of the page. Should work fine!

Thanks

20774 said:

Bill -

As for fuel lines, it is my understanding that all Airheads have a fuel line running from the petcock to each side carb but in that line is a t-connector which then joins a line going to the other side fuel line. I think this should be done although not completely necessary. However, when you get down near the bottom of the tank, you will be getting fuel from the saddles in the tank. If there is a lower gas amount on one side, then the bike will only run on one cylinder. The cross-line helps with that issue. Another small tip...if you should do the unthinkable and completely run out of gas after going through both reserves, there is a small amount of hope. Remove the tank, tilt the tank to one side of the other to bring the small amount of fuel that is below the outlet of the tank, and voila, you might have enough gas to go 5-10 miles...it could make all the difference!

As for time settings, under Settings and General Settings, there is the time zone that you choose which it sounds like you did. But be sure and click on Save Changes at the bottom of the page. Should work fine!

Click to expand...

Thanks!

Fuel lines and stuff

OKAY, not to confuse you or the issue.

Fuel lines come out of the taps on each side of the tank. In each of the lines is a T the top two lines of the T goes right to each of the carbs. The tail of the T goes into a hole between the airbox and top engine cover. Over all, you get an H pattern

As for the kit, to replace the pulse system

I had an issue recently with Ted's website and he explained things are missing from there that should be listed. So I doubt it because the parts are illegal as to why they are not there.

Anyway, The removal kit for the pulse air system is simple, Two little screws to go into the ports on the bottoms of the carbs. They block the vacuum line port removed when the system is removed. An alternative is to leave the hoses on the carbs and just plug them with something else. As long as there is no leak, there will be no problem. I tried to take a picture of the screws I used in the bottoms of my carbs. Sorry it is not the best.

Other parts

for the Air box itself, you will need two of the plugs used to cover the engine timing hole. They will go into the airbus in place of the injector hoses. Again forgive the poor picture, smart phone, dumb user.

Final parts

Finally for the plugs in the heads to replace the injector lines, you will need two BMW drain plugs. To the best of my recollection, they are the same non magnetic plugs used in the oil sump. Any plug/bolt with the proper threads and length will do the trick, it does not need to be BMW plugs. Just remember to use red lock tight or better and make sure they are tight but not too tight. Sorry no torque specs here I know of.
Again, I have a picture,

Finish

As long as holes in the air box are plugged, the connectors to the carbs are good, Everything for the pulse air system can be removed. In the fiche picture, Items 5, 6, 8 and the hose clamps/hardware can be trashed.

The timing hole plugs go into the spots where Items 4 and 3 are shown.

Items 12 and 13 are the hoses which go to the bottom of the carbs. They can be replaced with screws or, just plugged at item 9 another hose.

I removed items 13,11,12,10 and 9, used the screws in the carbs and found a small plug to fit into the hole left by removing item 10.

BMW Shed system

As for the microfiche of the fuel tank system which I surmise is called the "shed system". her it is, What you have to do to remove the stuff is not something I have done myself. I do know however, the gas tank has to vent somehow once this system is removed. Someone should have a write up or be able to help out with this system removal.




Good luck with it. St.

BMWMOA Forums rock!

I joined MOA yesterday, and I’ve already gotten my $39 worth of value. Attached is a picture of me 20 years ago with my friend’s new to him 1986 R80RT. I always wanted a R 80/100 RT. I told him that if he ever wanted to sell his bike, let me know. The second picture is me 2 months ago taking delivery of his bike. That leather jacket fit better 20 years ago! It’s been unusually hot here in Wyoming this summer, so after the left carb peed gas on my boot, I decided to clean the peeling sealer out of the gas tank, clean and lube the petcocks, touch up the chips in the paint, install new tires, and battery, change the fluids and now I’m changing the fuel hoses. I have a 1978 VW Camper bus and replaced the 20 little fuel hoses on that fuel injected system. They are known to catch fire when the old hoses crack or pop off and spray gas on the hot engine. So what’s good for the Bus is good for the Beemer. It’s a labor of love. I’m 68 and ride a Harley Electraglide and Sportster too. I started riding a Honda 50 in 1964. So my plan is to get this Beemer road worthy and ride it into my 80s. That 800 pound Harley is going to get to be too much to manage as I get older. Especially with my wife and a bunch of gear on board. My two 30 something sons have their eyes on it. I’m really enjoying being on a BMW again. I had a new 1986 R65 back then and always regretted selling it. Anyway, I digress. Thanks for all of the great posts and pictures. I will have pictures of my first big ride up into our Big Horn Mountains soon.

Memory lane

I won't go into how my wardrobe has changed over the years of riding. Only the saying "Old bikers never die, their leathers get tighter". Is true.

One one hand, I have had my R80RT since new and have lived with keeping it running since 84. On the other hand, I have my soiled dove my 78 R100RS which has been a challenge to sort out some of the stuff done to it by previous owners.

Both bikes are a joy to ride and I have never chosen to ride anything but them.

As long as a person uses common sense mechanical skills, can read a wiring diagram, and knows when to ask for help, he or she can keep these bikes going for a long time and have a great time with them.

We are blessed so far there are people out in the airhead world who have the stuff needed to keep the bikes going and are happy to share the knowledge.

Happy riding, St.

I bought the plug kit from Bombars Beremers.

https://www.bombarsbeemers.com

This was a few years back, though, before he moved to Wilmington NC and expanded. He might be worth a call. His kit had the carb screws, engine plugs and airbox plugs. It was probably a 10 minute job.

Doug