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WD-40, or electronics cleaner, into the switchgear as a maintenance/preventive?

I'm tempted but I have no idea if it would potentially cause more harm than good. All's well w/ all buttons in the switchgear currently but we're at 44K miles and 4.3y and seems like it might be worth doing before something gets sticky and starts affecting function. If you've done it let me know how it turned out for you.
 
Purists will tell you that WD40 leaves a residue and other electronic cleaners are better. That might be true but when the high/low beam switch on my R90/6 stuck while attending the 1985 MOA rally in Florida I unstuck it with WD40 and have used it fairly frequently on the switch gear on every bike we have owned since then - 23 or 24 in total. So over almost 2 million miles I can't detect there has ever been any ill effects. Others are sure to disagree.
 
The Dalton Highway Grit was affecting the operation of my Left Switchgear, I blasted it with Contact Cleaner and the problem disappeared and has not reappeared.
 
WD-40 has never caused a problem for me. It does leave a film and repeated use for years might cause a problem but I've never seen it. Every 44k miles or so seems reasonably safe.
 
Best stuff that I have found is D5S-6 CAIG DeoxIT 5. It is designed for electronic and electrical components. I have used this stuff on many different electronic and motorcycle switches and connectors. Here are two things that are the rub. One most likely you need to get it on line. So when on the road unless you have it your are SOL. Two if you use it on the connectors where there are rubber gaskets, like to the ECU the gasket will swell a bit making it difficult to reconnect. Once it drys out reconnection won't be an issue.


https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-D...ocphy=9028731&hvtargid=pla-382003658380&psc=1
 
I have used WD-40 on switches on the handlebar, sidestand, and elsewhere with out a problem. If one is using some sort of "cleaner" make certain that it won't harm plastic.

I once tried to clean some old Triumph parts and the "cleaner" dissolved the plastic bits. There are electronic cleaners that indicate that they are plastic safe.

https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specia...afe+cleaner&qid=1596737742&sr=8-9&tag=mh0b-20

https://www.amazon.com/BW-100-Nonfl...afe+cleaner&qid=1596737742&sr=8-5&tag=mh0b-20

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Plastic-Contact-Cleaner-Aerosol/dp/B07N4QKF2V
 
I have been very careful with how I use WD 40 since my master locksmith told me, some years ago, not to use it in car locks as it would gum them up.

I do notice on my can of contact cleaner that it's safe for use "on most plastics". So for switch gear and automotive locks, I use silicon spray.

But the experiences recounted here with WD use are certainly interesting.
 
I have been very careful with how I use WD 40 since my master locksmith told me, some years ago, not to use it in car locks as it would gum them up.

I do notice on my can of contact cleaner that it's safe for use "on most plastics". So for switch gear and automotive locks, I use silicon spray.

But the experiences recounted here with WD use are certainly interesting.

I have used WD40 on car, motorcycle, padlock, and house locks repeatedly over a period of at least 35 years and have never had a lock "gum up." That is anecdotal, not really data since I did not do a double blind placebo controlled test. But I do have to wonder what that master locksmith had to sell, and at what price compared to WD40.
 
I have used WD40 on car, motorcycle, padlock, and house locks repeatedly over a period of at least 35 years and have never had a lock "gum up." That is anecdotal, not really data since I did not do a double blind placebo controlled test. But I do have to wonder what that master locksmith had to sell, and at what price compared to WD40.

I do a lot of lock work......so here goes-
WD-40 is great for “flushing’ old debris, dry lock lube and whatever else is impeding lock operation. It’s sorta like kerosene in a can for cleaning and penetrating. I have never had it gum up but, dust will stick to it like any other “wet” product.
Once I’m reasonably sure the associated “crap” has been flushed out, I follow up with Tri-Flow #TF20027.
The problem with most lock failures is use, over use, use with dirt (dirt in the lock usually brought in with the key) and age.
Most locks will give good service for a long time with a little care.

BTW, this flush, clean and lube system, with the same products, is good for most fine mechanical devices such as your favorite ratchet, firearms, fishing reels etc.

If it’s an electrical switch, I have been using a product that I’m fairly new to - DeoxIT D5. I have used enough to recommend it as a “finish” after the WD-40.
OM
 
I try to not use wd-40 on anything as it is very flammable. I have cleaned switch gear on motorcycles in the past with TV tuner cleaner that I used to buy from radio shack, this product was made for cleaning contacts. It worked very well. (I do not recall if this product was flammable or not) There maybe other products that are flammable as well that I have used. For a lubricating function I have been using liquid wrench.
 
Deoxit D5

Can safely use on electronics even powered up...
I use this stuff on anything electronic, car or bike.
 
But I do have to wonder what that master locksmith had to sell, and at what price compared to WD40.

He made the comment when I took my car to his shop to deal with a salt fouled tailgate lock. I asked him what he used in locks and he said Miracle Mist (a silicone spray) which he bought by the case from Calgary Fasteners, and it wasn't for sale by his shop. I did manage to get a can sometime later, and it's amazing stuff. It doesn't seem to be available anymore.

But it's been interesting to see the different views here, on WD 40.
 
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