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Final Drive Rotate allowed 2015 RT

usablue

New member
OK sometime ago someone posted about checking the final drive by putting the bike in gear. Rotate the wheel forward, then back measuring the total movement. Someone gave a guideline number for that measure, I can not find it.
 
All final drive troubleshooting inspections really don’t involve the gear box. The wheel doesn’t have to be rotated... you just need to check for play in the wheel from the 12 and 6 o’clock position, and the 3 and 9 o’clock... there should be zero amount of play.
 
If you were checking the splines for play and wear, you could put it in gear and check rotation of the tire. A new spline is going to be tight with little or no play. Of course, you could just drop the rear drive, remove the dust boot and inspect the drive link visually for wear or damage.
 
OK sometime ago someone posted about checking the final drive by putting the bike in gear. Rotate the wheel forward, then back measuring the total movement. Someone gave a guideline number for that measure, I can not find it.

I read some posts about this and the sense I had was it was only to physically feel roughness or something other than smooth turning as an indicator their might be an evolving problem, and also moving the wheel side to side with hands on 12 and 6.
 
All final drive troubleshooting inspections really don’t involve the gear box. The wheel doesn’t have to be rotated... you just need to check for play in the wheel from the 12 and 6 o’clock position, and the 3 and 9 o’clock... there should be zero amount of play.

I agree that there should be no play when the FD is warm, but about 1 mm of play at the rim is normal when cold.

Measuring rotational play is pretty meaningless because it involves too many components. Gear lash in the final drive, splines on both ends of the drive shaft, both universal joints, gears in the transmission - it all adds up. You could even get different numbers depending on which gear you selected.
 
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