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Changing My Own Tires? - Requesting Sage Advice

...I'm looking at the moment for rubber plugs to plug the holes in the garage floor when not in used. ...

I used threaded concrete anchors. Like these from Amazon.

You just drill a hole in the concrete, tap these in, and then bolt your machine to the floor. You can move it in minutes, and reinstall later.

Cap
 
I have four concrete anchors in the floor for my tire changer. I never plug them. Just blow them out with compressed air. 15 years, never a problem.
 
I have four concrete anchors in the floor for my tire changer. I never plug them. Just blow them out with compressed air. 15 years, never a problem.

Thought of leaving them as is, but I put our bikes on center stands on Park-n-Move motorcycle dollies, and concern is that the 5/8" holes in the floor cause the casters to drop into the indentation. So, I'm looking for something that helps with getting around that. Thought at first that the suggested head socket cap bolts would be a solution, but that poses an issue with the heads sticking out. I'll go back to the hard rubber plugs concept and see if I can resolve it that way.
 
Calling Wes Fleming. Pick up the house phone please

Paul got me excited about changing my own tires with his tech article. Dealer is 160 miles away.

My first purchase was a wheel stand that brings your tires up to waist high that I used with a portable bead breaker (the Tire Wizard) for many years.

I then upgraded to a No-Mar that I mount to a cross base of plywood that I can disassemble and lean against the wall.

For the road I now take Motion Pro's Bead Pro https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0519

I am now interested in seeing if a Rabaconda could be a suitable replacement for my No Mar .

https://us.rabaconda.com/

The system goes into a bag and would take up less space than my No-Mar so I could use that space to store other things I don't need.

I have it on pretty good authority that Wes Fleming has access to one of these pieces of equipment:)

Maybe we could see a test in the future?

Wayne Koppa
Grayling, MI
#71,449
 
Old school here...

Tire irons and boot heels worked for me up to an including an 1100RT. That having been said, If I had the means, I would buy the best machine I could afford and I would ask the dealer for his advice on the best machine to do the job. With the right machine, you will recoup the cost of said machine and have a better time of it. Where I live, there is a Harley dealer who will change the tires for you if you want to pay for it and I dismount my own wheels and bring in the tire and the rim with the used up tire.

Best.

3hawks
 
Thought of leaving them as is, but I put our bikes on center stands on Park-n-Move motorcycle dollies, and concern is that the 5/8" holes in the floor cause the casters to drop into the indentation. So, I'm looking for something that helps with getting around that. Thought at first that the suggested head socket cap bolts would be a solution, but that poses an issue with the heads sticking out. I'll go back to the hard rubber plugs concept and see if I can resolve it that way.

I used anchors for 3/8" UNC bolts and set them flush with the floor.

I think you are concerned about nothing.
 
I used anchors for 3/8" UNC bolts and set them flush with the floor.

I think you are concerned about nothing.

Possibly. And then there is the situation when a little pebble stopped one of the casters when rolling the RT around in the garage, causing the bike to drop from the center stand and off the dolly. Good thing I had a firm grip on the RT, otherwise it would have been laying on the floor. Mind you, that was early on when learning what to do and what not to do with the dolly.

Having a bolt stick up from the garage floor is not conducive to using a bike dolly, don't you know? :-D
 
Elevator bolts can be used to fill a threaded hole, if that is the way you want to go. You could also use a “lead” shield with a lag bolt when you want to use the holes.
Either way, I can recommend using a shop-vac on the holes before bolting the machine down.
OM
 
Make some "plugs" to fill the holes until you are ready to mount the changer?

Cut the proper size/threaded bolt into say... 3/4" long pieces. Cut a slot on one end (for a standard screw driver) and chamfer the threads on the other end so they start easily into the anchors. Screw the plugs into the anchors flush with the floor.
 
Make some "plugs" to fill the holes until you are ready to mount the changer?

Cut the proper size/threaded bolt into say... 3/4" long pieces. Cut a slot on one end (for a standard screw driver) and chamfer the threads on the other end so they start easily into the anchors. Screw the plugs into the anchors flush with the floor.

Love that! Thanks for passing on another option!
 
What I did is drill four holes in the garage floor, using drop-in anchors, with the plan to bolt the base plate to the floor when needed for the tire changes. It's a 10 minute job to bolt and then reattach the arm. I'm looking at the moment for rubber plugs to plug the holes in the garage floor when not in used.

Foam Earplugs work great, put a little greae on them.
 
Got the rubber stoppers in and I think they'll do the job nicely. They go in far enough to be even with the concrete. The little bit of dust and debris that can get in on the sides is negligible and will be blown out before installing the changer base.

The dolly with the bike on it rolls over them without issues.

If anyone is interested, here is the part number and source:

Widgetco.com - 7-R00-EPDM-RS

RubberPlugs.jpeg
 
Harbor freight Tire changer

I have been using the harbor freight tire changer for quite a few sets of tires. Before buying the BMW R1250RT I was changing tires on a Gl1800 goldwing, previous two bikes. I went through lots of tires. The previous 3 motorcycles logged about 450,000 miles total (not a misprint). I have just about worn out the Harbor freight tool. I find the tires on the RT much easier than the goldwing tires. Tires of choice Dunlop Roadsmart IIIs but will likely go to the 4s on my next set. I will say that the key to changing the tires is lubrication on the bead and taking small bites with the tire irons. Mine are about 12 inches long and made by Michelin and I bought them back in the 1970s. The question is not one of brute strength as I could fairly easily tear the tire bead by applying too much force. The key is taking small bites when doing the install forcing the opposite part of the bead into the center of the rim so it does not stress the bead, and using plenty of lubricant along the bead and rim. Dawn liquid dish detergent works great for this, I have used it for decades with no issues.

I got started with one of these when I started changing Goldwing tires. There were lots of shops that did not want to change them as they were very hard to do. I believe the harbor freight tool was less than 100 dollars when I bought it and might have been less than 50. When I replace it I will go with a no-mar as they look like a great machine that is built to last. I will add that I use my bike as my primary source of transportation and like to get all the miles out of a set of tires I can. Changing them myself allows me to do that.:bikes

I hope this is helpful.
 
Coats RC200 with the Motorcycle Duckhead. Only $9,500. It would pay for itself after the first 100 sets of tires or so. :)
 
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