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1999 R1100RT Front wheel replacement.

We purchased a front wheel for our 1999 BMW R1100RT from Ebay.
Note, the numbers stamped on the wheels match but I hear this is not the true BMW part #?
According to https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51680&rnd=07242017 my front wheel should e part # 36 31 2 311 220 CAST IRON RIM SILVER FRONT - 3,50X17 ?

Anyway, my brake disk mounting bolts would not thread into the Ebay wheel ?
Is this an indication of someone using heat to remove the brake disk or locktight, etc or the Ebay wheel does not match my wheel ?

I did notice there are ABS vs non-ABS bikes, but it looks like the front wheels are the same ?

Separately, how long does the front wheel bearing last ?
 
wheel bearing

Separately, how long does the front wheel bearing last ?[/QUOTE]


my 1997 RT has 320,000 with same wheel bearings. Just once taken out and re greased many miles ago


Brian
 
Anyway, my brake disk mounting bolts would not thread into the Ebay wheel ?
Is this an indication of someone using heat to remove the brake disk or locktight, etc or the Ebay wheel does not match my wheel ?

Did you try carefully running a tap to clean the threads? There may be some leftover loctite on bolts or wheels.
 
The number on the wheel is probably a casting number, not the part number; it's pretty common that these don't match. As long as all the holes are in the same place and the dimensions all match, it "should be" ok. Dunno if there's a difference between the ABS and non-ABS wheels (maybe mounting for the ABS sensor wheel?) but the on-line MAX parts fiche might answer that.

I agree that it could be necessary to clean out the old Loctite.

Wheel bearings typically last a pretty long time ... unless you power-wash, or hit a big pothole or rock (as I did), then they could be instantly toast. Put a finger in both sides and rotate the bearing: it should feel smooth all the way around, no slop, no grinding, no notches.
 
The number on the wheel is probably a casting number, not the part number; it's pretty common that these don't match. As long as all the holes are in the same place and the dimensions all match, it "should be" ok. Dunno if there's a difference between the ABS and non-ABS wheels (maybe mounting for the ABS sensor wheel?) but the on-line MAX parts fiche might answer that.

I agree that it could be necessary to clean out the old Loctite.


Is there any experience out there in removing the front brake disks from the front wheel ?

IE do folks have to use heat or do the bolts just come right out ?
My Front disk brake mounting bolts came out clean , went back in clean ( ie finger tight) and torqued to spec..
 
Is there any experience out there in removing the front brake disks from the front wheel ?

IE do folks have to use heat or do the bolts just come right out ?
My Front disk brake mounting bolts came out clean , went back in clean ( ie finger tight) and torqued to spec..

I have removed front rotors several times. For replacement of the bobbins (Cata Dan kit) and for complete disk replacement. To be safe, use some heat on the mounting screws. They don't have to be red hot, but they will certainly come out easier warmed up. Not a big deal. Way easier to replace the bobbins, with the rotor free from the carrier. Just flip it over and knock off the C-Clips.
 
Just received a used front wheel off of ebay from a selller in MO. So far so good.

Note, I had to return an ebay front wheel from a California Ebayer.
The brake disk threads were a mess and the Ebay seller didn't have a clue or care in the world.

Note, I am not sure what is going on in CA, but my last two Ebay deals with folks out of CA were horrible and a huge waste to time and money.
 
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