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tie down
- Thread starter galaxie
- Start date
skibum69
slave to gravity
Two straps is all you need from the bars to the tie down points in the truck bed. Go pretty tight and compress the forks. You can put a third around the back tire to keep it from sliding sideways. Obviously be careful of the cables etc and try to have a clean line from the bar. You can sort of see the left strap on the rear bike how it's run. Both bikes in there only have 2 ratchet straps holding them.
I’m going to disagree with skibum a bit. The tire straps or other additional straps are mandatory, in my opinion. Using only two straps on the handlebars might keep the bike balanced, but won’t keep it secured in a panic stop or crash. The last thing you want is it coming forward into your vehicle’s passenger area, or launching into someone else’s vehicle in a collision.
I strap handlebars, both front and rear tires, and two more side straps to the rear seat/rack area. So six straps total.
I strap handlebars, both front and rear tires, and two more side straps to the rear seat/rack area. So six straps total.
A few past threads with some ideas...the last one for an Airhead:
https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthrea...f-How-to-Tie-Down-a-2016-R1200RT-on-a-trailer
https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?92344-Trailer-Tie-Down
https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?29686-proper-tie-down-technique-when-trailering
https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?93597-tie-down-points-1978-R100S
https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthrea...f-How-to-Tie-Down-a-2016-R1200RT-on-a-trailer
https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?92344-Trailer-Tie-Down
https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?29686-proper-tie-down-technique-when-trailering
https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?93597-tie-down-points-1978-R100S
Good point. Your photo shows transport in an enclosed space. I assumed his “ranger truck” referred to an open pick-up truck bed (maybe not?) The method I described was for an open bed pickup truck or open trailer. In a van or enclosed trailer there is less concern about ejecting the payload (bike) in a collision, but you still don’t want it shifting into the passenger compartment.
Well...... chances are at lottery odds for a bike to enter the passenger area as the wheel is up against the interior front of the pickup bed negating any “ramming” action of the bike.
Passenger vans, for the most part, do not have a “service wall” between the front seating area as required for commercial vans.
Fairly important to have an anchored front wheel chock in a van.
I find it a good idea to leave the bike in first gear.
I find it a good idea to lash the front wheel to the secured front wheel chock.
I find it a good idea to use tie-downs on the rear especially if the floor surface is smooth.
I find it a good idea to close the “open” end of the tie-downs with a wrap of electrical tape to prevent a jump off of the hook under the “recoil” of an unexpected dip in the road.
One of the best threads on tie-downs and bike hauling is here-
https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?88430-U-Haul-motorycle-trailer
OM
One thing I could add--to tie down the front of an RS or RT, one needs to pop out the boots where the fork tubes go through the fairing. Just pop the boots loose, don't remove them. You then run the tie down straps though there.This will allow a nice straight pull for the straps to the handlebars down to the trailer (or truck) tie down point.
skibum69
slave to gravity
The wall you see in my pic is the divider between the back and passenger compartment. I've had as many as 3 bikes racked back there and could have fit more.
Here is an example of needs must on a rescue mission that actually worked quite well. In this case there are 4 ratchet straps to solid connections
Here is an example of needs must on a rescue mission that actually worked quite well. In this case there are 4 ratchet straps to solid connections
Alot of good information here.
Transporting and tieing down a motorcycle with a fairing can be somewhat challenging. Dirt bikes and smaller motorcycles are a piece of cake.
I ALWAYS tie the front wheel into a wheel chock, it keeps it in one place and does not allow the front wheel and handlebars to turn one way or the other allowing tie downs to slip off the bike,
Secondly on dirt bikes I use a piece of 4X4 fence post cut to 2/3's of the front end suspension travel. I place the wood between the bottom of the triple tree and the front wheel then pull the triple tree down onto the top of the 4X4 as tight as I can get it.
Third, alway tie down the back of the bike, does not have to be as tight as the front end but tight enough so the it does not move around.
Fairing bikes are difficult to find front tie down points that they don't interfere with the fairing. No one want to transport a bike only to find the paint rubbed off the fairing sides where the tie downs have been rubbing. A tie down system like the Canyon Dancer system work well.
Lastly, check your tie down points at every stop, tighten if necessary.
I've transported bikes across several states, several times without incident.
Transporting and tieing down a motorcycle with a fairing can be somewhat challenging. Dirt bikes and smaller motorcycles are a piece of cake.
I ALWAYS tie the front wheel into a wheel chock, it keeps it in one place and does not allow the front wheel and handlebars to turn one way or the other allowing tie downs to slip off the bike,
Secondly on dirt bikes I use a piece of 4X4 fence post cut to 2/3's of the front end suspension travel. I place the wood between the bottom of the triple tree and the front wheel then pull the triple tree down onto the top of the 4X4 as tight as I can get it.
Third, alway tie down the back of the bike, does not have to be as tight as the front end but tight enough so the it does not move around.
Fairing bikes are difficult to find front tie down points that they don't interfere with the fairing. No one want to transport a bike only to find the paint rubbed off the fairing sides where the tie downs have been rubbing. A tie down system like the Canyon Dancer system work well.
Lastly, check your tie down points at every stop, tighten if necessary.
I've transported bikes across several states, several times without incident.
I carry my '84 RT in my Dodge Dakota's 6-1/2 ft. bed on a semi-regular basis. Unless you're willing to roach your fairing's finish (I'm not), the suggestions pertaining to dirt bikes and unfaired bikes won't really work. Here's what works for me:
I have a simple wheel chock bolted to the floor of my truck's bed. The front wheel rolls into it to keep it from turning from side to side. Straps to the handlebars or a handlebar-mounted Canyon Dancer setup, down to the highest, most forward anchoring point on my truck, the top openings of the bed's front stake pockets, would still run afoul of the fairing.
Instead, I use a couple of high-strength (1000lb. working strength) "soft ties" wrapped around the tops of the fork sliders, and between the fork sliders and the front fender stay. I usually pad this area with a cut up computer mouse pad (to protect the soft ties, fork tubes, and fork slider caps from each other) before I wrap the soft ties. I then run high-strength ratchet straps (mine have 1500lb. working load/4000lb yield strength) from the soft ties' loops to the the truck's front stake pockets. You have to be careful in your selection of ratchet straps to find ones with a fixed end that's short enough that you can hook both ends of the strap and still have some ability to snug the working end of the strap tightly. This arrangement holds the bike upright and keeps it firmly pulled forward into the wheel chock. I then use a couple more soft ties wrapped around the main frame and rear subframe stay, near the rear footpeg flange (running between the frames and the wiring harnesses in those areas so as not to harm that wiring), and then ratchet strap those to the rear stake pockets of the truck bed.
Some will almost certainly be aghast by this arrangement, since it does leave the motorcycle nearly completely free to bounce up and down on its suspension as it's moving down the highway in the truck bed. They may insist that this simply isn't a safe way to move the bike. Philosophies differ. The bike's wheels are held both firmly upright and are nearly completely unable to move forward or backward after my large ratchet straps are tightened. They get checked and retightened after a few miles, and periodically after that, particularly if the rigging gets dampened by rain or road spray. I can see the motorcycle moving up and down a bit on its suspension as I encounter dips and bumps in the highway, but it has no discernible affect on the truck's handling at reasonable interstate speeds. I've toted my RT for hundreds of interstate highway miles to and from Chicago from my home in mid-Michigan on any number of occasions without any problems, and certainly without fairing/paint damage. The Dan Ryan Expressway is not where I want to encounter problems with load security, and I have not. I hope this helps a fellow RT-er.
I have a simple wheel chock bolted to the floor of my truck's bed. The front wheel rolls into it to keep it from turning from side to side. Straps to the handlebars or a handlebar-mounted Canyon Dancer setup, down to the highest, most forward anchoring point on my truck, the top openings of the bed's front stake pockets, would still run afoul of the fairing.
Instead, I use a couple of high-strength (1000lb. working strength) "soft ties" wrapped around the tops of the fork sliders, and between the fork sliders and the front fender stay. I usually pad this area with a cut up computer mouse pad (to protect the soft ties, fork tubes, and fork slider caps from each other) before I wrap the soft ties. I then run high-strength ratchet straps (mine have 1500lb. working load/4000lb yield strength) from the soft ties' loops to the the truck's front stake pockets. You have to be careful in your selection of ratchet straps to find ones with a fixed end that's short enough that you can hook both ends of the strap and still have some ability to snug the working end of the strap tightly. This arrangement holds the bike upright and keeps it firmly pulled forward into the wheel chock. I then use a couple more soft ties wrapped around the main frame and rear subframe stay, near the rear footpeg flange (running between the frames and the wiring harnesses in those areas so as not to harm that wiring), and then ratchet strap those to the rear stake pockets of the truck bed.
Some will almost certainly be aghast by this arrangement, since it does leave the motorcycle nearly completely free to bounce up and down on its suspension as it's moving down the highway in the truck bed. They may insist that this simply isn't a safe way to move the bike. Philosophies differ. The bike's wheels are held both firmly upright and are nearly completely unable to move forward or backward after my large ratchet straps are tightened. They get checked and retightened after a few miles, and periodically after that, particularly if the rigging gets dampened by rain or road spray. I can see the motorcycle moving up and down a bit on its suspension as I encounter dips and bumps in the highway, but it has no discernible affect on the truck's handling at reasonable interstate speeds. I've toted my RT for hundreds of interstate highway miles to and from Chicago from my home in mid-Michigan on any number of occasions without any problems, and certainly without fairing/paint damage. The Dan Ryan Expressway is not where I want to encounter problems with load security, and I have not. I hope this helps a fellow RT-er.
pglaves
#13338
Only when the stupid ratchet strap jams after one on the other side has been loosened.
Only when the stupid ratchet strap jams after one on the other side has been loosened.
Ratchet(s) need the occasional lube. Again I recommend Tri-Flow.
OM
6322
Member
I have seen straps come unhooked when some suspension travel was left, after driving over a rough section of road. Not where the soft straps are used on the bike but where they're hooked to the trailer or pickup.
pglaves
#13338
I use closed loop chain links at the bottom, or wrap the hook with duct tape to prevent unhooking.
See: https://www.grainger.com/product/1R...kwcid=AL!2966!3!264955916138!!!g!438323478123!
