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R60/5 stripped transmission drain bolt.

r60celo5

r60celo5

New member
Hey all.

I believe the transmission drain bolt on the new to me 1973 LWB r60/5 is stripped, its all the way in but I can still spin it with socket wrench. As soon as I realised it was not tightening I stopped it as I don't wanna do more damage.

I believe the specs call for this bolt to be torqued to 14 -18.5 ft#. I know I did not reach that value.

I was able to remove the other drain bolt by fingers after loosening with a socket wrench. Then finger tighten all the way up

The transmission drain bolt took a socket wrench to back out all the way and same to go back in till the bolt head meets the casing.

Anyone have ran into this? Any suggestions what to do?

Thanks.
 
Can you explain the two drain bolts? There's only one for the transmission. The oil pan drain bolt on my /7 is actually an allen socket.

14-18 ft-lbs sounds pretty high, but it does check out...I've never considered using any kind of torque wrench on that.

If the actual drain bolt for the transmission is stripped, I'm not sure what can be done other than to pull the transmission and get a good look at things for a helicoil or timesert. It's not a bolt that you want to let loose because it will dump oil for the rear tire to slip on.
 
I believe you are right. The engine oil bolt is a Allen bolt. Not by the bike now to confirm.
I was referring to the drain bolts at the final drive and drive shaft that are hex bolts.
The transmission/gear box however it's named it's a hex in the center at the bottom.
It keeps spinning.
Would hate to take it all apart again. I just put it back together.
 
For some reason, Amazon keeps sending me information about oversized drain plugs, like 15mm for stripped 14mm holes. I dunno if anything like that would be useful.
 
Anyname said:
For some reason, Amazon keeps sending me information about oversized drain plugs, like 15mm for stripped 14mm holes. I dunno if anything like that would be useful.
Click to expand...

Thanks I guess I would have to tap a larger hole.
What is the size of the oem pulg? A 14mm?
 
r60celo5 said:
Thanks I guess I would have to tap a larger hole.
What is the size of the oem pulg? A 14mm?
Click to expand...

That would leave you with a non standard drain plug that may be an issue in the future, for you or a subsequent owner. First, because there is not unlimited material to work with around that hole, and secondly because changing the diameter or type of plug means that a different torque value may be required on the plug.

My suggestion, once you have the stripped plug removed, would be to have the hole drilled and prepped for a TimeSert insert so you can use a standard (stock) drain plug. Ideally, that’s a job done with the transmission removed and opened. In the real world, it may be possible for a good machinist to rig a way to drill and tap for the TimeSert with the bike laid on its side. Regardless of what method you decide upon to address the problem, an intensive flushing of the transmission will likely be needed to clear out any swarf from the repair.

Best of luck, and do keep us updated.

DeVern
 
The plug would go in with some effort till the washer is sandwiched between the casing and the flange of the drain plug. Then i could keep wrenching (not forcefully) but it would not tighten to a stop.

For now in doubled up on the washers so it would keep the bolt lower and still grab on the case. Tighten it enough but not to the torque value. Filled up and no leaks. Did not ride it.

I will be monitoring for leaks till I finish the wiring. I understand there is high possibility it will leak when on the road.

I will be looking for an oversized drain bolt. Does anyone have one handy to measure how long is the threaded part (from the flange of the nut to manget end) so I don't go deeper in the case then the OEM bolt?


Thanks
 
Stripped out oil pan drain bolts on passenger vehicles happens frequently. There are many “fixes” for the condition. Most have an outer “self-thread” outer bushing with a smaller “plug” in the center. The smaller plug becomes the new drain plug.
While these repair devices are meant to cut their own threads in the sheet-metal of an oil pan, a run in with the appropriate tap size would be a good idea.
Might be worth looking into.
OM
 
Omega Man said:
Stripped out oil pan drain bolts on passenger vehicles happens frequently. There are many “fixes” for the condition. Most have an outer “self-thread” outer bushing with a smaller “plug” in the center. The smaller plug becomes the new drain plug.
While these repair devices are meant to cut their own threads in the sheet-metal of an oil pan, a run in with the appropriate tap size would be a good idea.
Might be worth looking into.
OM
Click to expand...

Thank you.

That's what I was looking into last night or another option would be one of those oversized self tapping plugs (however they do not come with a magnet tip like OEM).

Either way I would think that I need to ensure that any fix should not go further up into the casing then the OEM plug. Right? Mine is in and gear box is filled so I can't take mine out to measure the length of the threaded part of the plug. Does anyone know what that is?

Speaking of OEM, that drain bolt costs 30$??

Since it has not leaked overnight I will move on putting the rest of it together so I can finally take it for a spin around the block. :)
 
Sounds like the plug was cross-threaded going in. How many miles are on the bike? As close as you are, if the transmission is anywhere close to due for a refresh (>80K miles), I"d pull it, and run it down to Tom Cutter at Rubber Chicken Racing Garage (Yardley, PA) for a rebuild, and have him repair the stripped drain hole.
 
khittner said:
Sounds like the plug was cross-threaded going in. How many miles are on the bike? As close as you are, if the transmission is anywhere close to due for a refresh (>80K miles), I"d pull it, and run it down to Tom Cutter at Rubber Chicken Racing Garage (Yardley, PA) for a rebuild, and have him repair the stripped drain hole.
Click to expand...

There is only 38k miles on the odometer. It would take me
at least 10 years to bring it up to 80k
 
In my opinion it doesn't matter if that plug is "stock" or not. Get a self-tapping repair plug of the appropriate size, install it and get on with life. I don't think it will devalue the bike by more than about ten cents.
 
Check out tractors and other equipment for magnetic tips....

r60celo5 said:
Thank you.

That's what I was looking into last night or another option would be one of those oversized self tapping plugs (however they do not come with a magnet tip like OEM).
Click to expand...

I know my JD 4044 has 3 magnetic plugs. 2 of different size diameter threads. The kubota RTV has one on the transmission and the tractor has 2 ..........So, perhaps you could take your plug down to your local tractor or equipment dealer and check them out.

A tractor dealer in Ohio has schematics and parts diagrams on-line with descriptions of the bolt. Name is Messicks and they have about 10 different types of equipment that they handle and have parts for..........Good luck......Dennis
 
kinterridge said:
denniskirk.com does sell oil and transmission magnetic drain plugs, in metric sizes.
Click to expand...

I wanted a magnetic plug in the engine oil sump of an R1100RS. I got a button magnet off the end of a small magnetic pickup stick. I drilled a recess in the engine drain plug and epoxied the button magnet to the plug. Still working 200,000 miles later. The OP's issue is stripped threads.
 
Yes, read the damaged thread issue. I prefer drill and re-tap with next available larger size, one piece plug with crush washer. That's just the way I prefer to do mine, has always worked well for me, as long as there is enough meat around it.
 
I was recently faced with the same problem on a stripped oil drain on an aluminum pan. I investigated the options I finally settled on a Time Sert, but I did so because I found a complete set on e-bay the correct size to fit my application. However, Time Sert kits are expensive when new, about $130.00 for a 14mm kit. I was surprised to find that Amazon listed a number of plug repair kits that would fix your issue. I would go for the style of the double plug , a threaded oversized plug with a smaller drain plug that could be removed without moving the repaired portion.
 
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