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Thread: Clutch Replacement 97 R1100RS

  1. #1

    Clutch Replacement 97 R1100RS

    Hi Forum!

    I'm in the middle of a clutch replacement on a 97 R1100RS.

    After the gearbox has been installed it and we re-attach the cable it appears as if there's very little tension or not enough. The bike was sitting for two years, I don't know if that matters. I just want to make sure I did it right before we put the whole bike back together.

    Maybe you can help?

    Is the cable shot?
    Did I reinstall the pushrod wrong?
    Do I need to do something to the whole boot spring thing attached to the clutch arm?
    Is there a base setting for the adjustment screw?

    Thank You!!!

  2. #2
    Registered User jsouth's Avatar
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    Set the clutch lever end to spec. There is a clearance setting on the lever opening and a distance for the adjustment nut if I recall correctly. Then adjust the rod and adjusting nut down below to eliminate play. Paul Glaves will jump in here with ALL correct info I hope. But my point (from memory; I'm at work) is that adjustment is required in TWO places.
    2000 BMW R1100RS | Past bikes: 97 Suzuki GS500E, 82 Suzuki GS1100E, 07 Suzuki V-Strom 650

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by jsouth View Post
    Set the clutch lever end to spec. There is a clearance setting on the lever opening and a distance for the adjustment nut if I recall correctly. Then adjust the rod and adjusting nut down below to eliminate play. Paul Glaves will jump in here with ALL correct info I hope. But my point (from memory; I'm at work) is that adjustment is required in TWO places.
    Set the exposed threads on the aduster at the handle bar to 12mm. Then loosen the 13mm locknut and turn the 10mm adjuster at the transmission to set the free play measured at te lever to 7MM.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  4. #4
    Registered User m_stock10506's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jsouth View Post
    Set the clutch lever end to spec. There is a clearance setting on the lever opening and a distance for the adjustment nut if I recall correctly. Then adjust the rod and adjusting nut down below to eliminate play. Paul Glaves will jump in here with ALL correct info I hope. But my point (from memory; I'm at work) is that adjustment is required in TWO places.
    You’ve got it right. Set the adjuster nut at the lever to 12 mm. Then use the adjustment nut at the back of the gear box until the free play at the hand lever is about 7 mm. Once you have the free play set, pull in the clutch so that there’s tension on the cable and tighten the lock nut at the gear box.
    Michael Stock, Trinity, NC
    R1100RT, R100, R60/6

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by PGlaves View Post
    Set the exposed threads on the aduster at the handle bar to 12mm. Then loosen the 13mm locknut and turn the 10mm adjuster at the transmission to set the free play measured at te lever to 7MM.
    Thank You! So you don't think its the cable then? Is there a way to check if you did the clutch right besides that adjustment?

  6. #6
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    Did you install the throw out bearing which sits behind the rod which pushes on the pressure plate to release it? The actuator arm on the outside of the tranny contacts this bearing.

    Did you replace the throw out bearing as part of the work? It possible the original you put back is damaged? An RT I did a clutch replacement on really only had a disintegrated throw out bearing which made the system unable to actuate the pressure plate and felt like a very loose cable.
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  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by chrisinsc View Post
    Did you install the throw out bearing which sits behind the rod which pushes on the pressure plate to release it? The actuator arm on the outside of the tranny contacts this bearing.

    Did you replace the throw out bearing as part of the work? It possible the original you put back is damaged? An RT I did a clutch replacement on really only had a disintegrated throw out bearing which made the system unable to actuate the pressure plate and felt like a very loose cable.
    Hi Chris. We didn't do anything to throwout bearing. The clutch cable/arm worked fine before the teardown, save for the worn disc. Is there a base setting for the adjustment screw and locknut at the back of the trans? Thank You!

  8. #8
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    see pauls post above for baseline adjustment

    I would replace the throw out bearing but thats just me
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  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by chrisinsc View Post
    see pauls post above for baseline adjustment

    I would replace the throw out bearing but thats just me
    Ok... Is that difficult?

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