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Thread: TB synch after Dan Cana Rebuild

  1. #1

    TB synch after Dan Cana Rebuild

    Hello all, I'm hoping that someone can lend some assistance.

    Within the last two weeks, I installed the Dan Cana TB kit on my '99 RT w/65K. Being a first time doing this procedure myself, I had to move a few of the screws to reseat the butterfly's. I have the bike back together and she's running pretty well at warm idle, a bit high (~13-1500rpm). I took the BBS's out and cleaned them before reseting them to the 1 1/2 turns out, I have both throttle cables back to where they were visually (yes, I failed to mark them).

    I have hooked my homemade manometer up only to find that the right cylinder (as your sitting on the bike) is pulling pretty hard, so hard that I can't make any adjustments before the ATF fluid is sucked into the TB. I understand that the ATF won't hurt anything, correct me if I'm wrong please.

    I have synched the TB's in the past, but not when I've had to move the TB's screws.

    I'm looking for suggestions and assistance in getting my girl back on the road feeling better, lord knows I need to be back out there as well.

    *Addition*

    (Warm engine) right side BBS is closed completely, throttle cable all the way down. Still pulling (on the manometer) very hard to the right. Could this be an idle screw issue? Do I need to focus on the left TB to counter the pull?

    When at idle, if I manually open the right side TB, the engine bogs down, as if it's not getting spark. Pulled the plug and verified that there is spark with the spark plug.

    I'm at a loss on what to do. Any help/advice would be appreciated.



    Thanks
    Derek
    Last edited by myr1100rt; 06-23-2020 at 10:10 PM.

  2. #2
    Registered User dieselyoda's Avatar
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    My opinion, I don't get too concerned about TB sync at idle, as long as I'm close. I spend more time on sync at 4000 RPM and try to get it as close as I can. Sync at idle is the BBS. Sync at higher RPM is throttle cable.

    As to the high idle, I would try some grease on the BBS threads as a start, preferably a silicone/PTFE grease. It sound like you have a bit of an air leak. That could make your idle sync make you want to push a wet dog into bed with your wife.

    As to the engine eating the ATF, no real problem unless you eat 1/4 teaspoon or more. Then you will will know you have a real problem, the engine will tell you.
    1997 R1100RT, 1981 KZ 440 LTD, R80RT, R90/6 sidecar, K1100RS,1983 K100RS (Cafe now)

    ďThe major civilizing force in the world is not religion, it is sex.Ē

  3. #3
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    TB synch after Dan Cana Rebuild

    In reading your post not sure what some of your statements are referring to, but when doing a TB sync you have the throttle cables with slack in them so they are not interfering with the butterfly sitting on the stop screw. when you said you adjusted screws to get the butterflies to seat I am hoping it wasn't the stop screws you were referring to. With slack in the throttle cables you can use the BBS to set idle rpm while monitoring your tach and the manometer. The object is to have the manometers mirroring each other as you get the idle to 1050 RPM approx. Once you get to this point you begin to take the slack out of the throttle cable at the ferrule TB on the left side of the bike (has TPS on it). You are watching the manometer as you turn the ferrule, when you see the manometer to start to rise you back off a slight to let the manometer return to where it was and tighten the jam nut still watching to see no rise a manometer. Now you move to the right side where you slowly raise your rpm to 2500 and start taking the slack out of the right side TB when you get the manometer for this throttle body to the same level as the left with your fingers jam the nut a little. I prefer to at this point raise my rpm to 4000-4500 and still watching the manometer try to get the right side TB to mirror every movement of the left as closely as possible before I tighten the jam nut for the right side cable. This should get you a smooth idle with no input from the throttle cables and smooth highway riding. Hope you find this to work for you!

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by mckgtrgs View Post
    when doing a TB sync you have the throttle cables with slack in them so they are not interfering with the butterfly sitting on the stop screw. when you said you adjusted screws to get the butterflies to seat I am hoping it wasn't the stop screws you were referring to.
    I did have to move the stop screws during the re-installation of the butterfly's. I "think" I have them back in the proper setting (or very close to that).

    Quote Originally Posted by mckgtrgs View Post
    With slack in the throttle cables you can use the BBS to set idle rpm while monitoring your tach and the manometer. The object is to have the manometers mirroring each other as you get the idle to 1050 RPM approx. Once you get to this point you begin to take the slack out of the throttle cable at the ferrule TB on the left side of the bike (has TPS on it). You are watching the manometer as you turn the ferrule, when you see the manometer to start to rise you back off a slight to let the manometer return to where it was and tighten the jam nut still watching to see no rise a manometer. Now you move to the right side where you slowly raise your rpm to 2500 and start taking the slack out of the right side TB when you get the manometer for this throttle body to the same level as the left with your fingers jam the nut a little. I prefer to at this point raise my rpm to 4000-4500 and still watching the manometer try to get the right side TB to mirror every movement of the left as closely as possible before I tighten the jam nut for the right side cable. This should get you a smooth idle with no input from the throttle cables and smooth highway riding. Hope you find this to work for you!
    I'll give this a shot when I get home. Thanks for the help.

    D

  5. #5
    My opinion, I don't get too concerned about TB sync at idle, as long as I'm close. I spend more time on sync at 4000 RPM and try to get it as close as I can. Sync at idle is the BBS. Sync at higher RPM is throttle cable.

    As to the high idle, I would try some grease on the BBS threads as a start, preferably a silicone/PTFE grease.
    Quote Originally Posted by dieselyoda View Post
    It sound like you have a bit of an air leak.
    I didn't think about checking for an air leak, will check when I get home. Thanks for the suggestion!


    That could make your idle sync make you want to push a wet dog into bed with your wife.

    As to the engine eating the ATF, no real problem unless you eat 1/4 teaspoon or more. Then you will will know you have a real problem, the engine will tell you.

  6. #6
    I've checked with carb/choke cleaner for any leaks, I didn't hear/see anything that suggests a leak. I've visually watched the throttle cables on both TB's as I twist the throttle, the left moves normally, but he right doesn't start to move until a bit later in the twist.

    I'm still concerned about the bogging down of the engine when I manually open the right-hand TB. I'm looking thru the Clymer maintenance book right now to see if there's anything mentioned.

    D

  7. #7
    Registered User m_stock10506's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by myr1100rt View Post
    I've checked with carb/choke cleaner for any leaks, I didn't hear/see anything that suggests a leak. I've visually watched the throttle cables on both TB's as I twist the throttle, the left moves normally, but he right doesn't start to move until a bit later in the twist.

    I'm still concerned about the bogging down of the engine when I manually open the right-hand TB. I'm looking thru the Clymer maintenance book right now to see if there's anything mentioned.

    D
    The throttle position sensor is mounted to the left throttle body. If you manually move the right TB the motor will bog down or even stall. This is because the TPS didnít move and the computer still thinks that both sides are at idle.

    Both sides should come off of the throttle stops at the same time. If they donít, you are way out of sync.
    Michael Stock, Trinity, NC
    R1100RT, R100, R60/6

  8. #8
    Registered User roger 04 rt's Avatar
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    This procedure will get everything back to where it needs no be: https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread...=1#post1091142

    Work methodically and be patient. You can get the genie back into the bottle.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by roger 04 rt View Post
    This procedure will get everything back to where it needs no be: https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread...=1#post1091142

    Work methodically and be patient. You can get the genie back into the bottle.
    Thanks Roger. I've been working at this for a little over a week now and have found someone with a whole lot more experience than I have. They've agreed to assist me in getting my girl back on the road. I have asked to be part of this process so that I can learn, thankfully, they've agreed. I've done a TB synch before, but not from zero. I appreciate everyone's help in this matter.

    D

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