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Bike Bandit has Roadsmart III's on sale

bigjohnsd

bigjohnsd

'21 R1250 GS Adv
Dunlop RoadSmart 3 Tires
Front, 120/70-19, Radial, 19, Tubeless, 60, W
Part Number: 4598588 $172.95

Dunlop RoadSmart 3 Tires
Rear, 170/60-17, Radial, 17, Tubeless, 72, W
Part Number: 4335238 $131.95

Shipping Insanity: This product qualifies for complimentary next day air shipping upgrade at no additional charge.

First time I've ever seen a front tire more expensive than a rear.
 
Doesn't the RT require the GT (heavy weight) version. I liked the Roadsmart III for all reasons except mounting, they are a very stiff tire. So stiff I'm not buying them again, I can't mount without help with my No Mar equipment. Removal is just as tough, since I didn't have a helper I cut the dame thing off the rear.
 
Strataj - Dunlop does not show a GT or A Spec version for the RoadSmart III. With your experience, seems like they couldn't make them much stiffer than they are.
 
ExGMan said:
Cycle Gear Price for typical RT RoadSmart III:

View attachment 79030
Click to expand...

The local guy I buy from quoted me the same price for those sizes.
With the $60 Dunlop rebate it's $250 for the pair.
You need to buy from a Dunlop dealer and they at least need to mount the tires to the wheels.

I used this same rebate last year. The current rebate is good through July 31.
 
GTRider said:
That link points to the Continental Road Attack 3 GT, not to a Dunlop RoadSmart III... :scratch

Best,
DeVern
Click to expand...

My bad, sorry about the heavy weight version. The Dunlop RoadSmart III is a very stiff tire, too difficult to install on a manual machine like a No Mar when a helper isn't available. Too bad I did like the tire in all conditions plus it got good tread life.
 
Tip for stiff tires

For dealing with very stiff tires I learned a trick when doing Goldwing tires which were very stiff. I know some bike shops that will not install them for that reason. The trick is forcing the bead into the center section of the rim which allows it to move further into the wheel rim. It seems to give an extra inch or a bit more for getting the tire over the outer surface of the rim. Once the tire starts to get tight on the rim it will stay in the deeper portion of the wheel on its own and when the tire is all the way on it will pop onto the outer portion of the rim on its own. It also helps to use a lubricant on the bead which you might have been doing already. The tires I was installing were the Dunlops as they were high mileage as well when used on the wing. I did find that running about 2 pounds more air in the front tire than recommended greatly reduced cupping. I am having the same issue with the Michelins on my RT and will begin the same fix to see if that helps. I do use a heavy front brake bias, seems to be left over from my days riding sport bikes. Hope this little trick is of value to you for the next tire change.
 
fog820 said:
The trick is forcing the bead into the center section of the rim which allows it to move further into the wheel rim.
Click to expand...

To follow on fog820's point, I've learned a couple of things after mounting a dozen or so sets of Road Smart III's on my and friends bikes. If you're using the NoMar mounting tool, invest in a Mojo lever. Big improvement. Don't wait until it becomes difficult to advance the bar. Keep the top bead pushed down in the drop zone as you advance the tool. It becomes very difficult to move it if you wait until the tire is very tight going over the last bit of wheel rim. An appropriately placed C-clamp can substitute for a free hand or a helper.
 
dlong0609 said:
To follow on fog820's point, I've learned a couple of things after mounting a dozen or so sets of Road Smart III's on my and friends bikes. If you're using the NoMar mounting tool, invest in a Mojo lever. Big improvement. Don't wait until it becomes difficult to advance the bar. Keep the top bead pushed down in the drop zone as you advance the tool. It becomes very difficult to move it if you wait until the tire is very tight going over the last bit of wheel rim. An appropriately placed C-clamp can substitute for a free hand or a helper.
Click to expand...

I agree, I too use a Mojo lever. Since I don't have a help when doing my own tires, the RoadSmart III's just aren't worth it my option.
 
Dunlop Roadsmart IIIs

Good conversation about this tire. Other than the difficulty in mounting the tire I saw comments that it was a good tire for tread wear and handling. I am close to the wear bars on my Michelin Pilot Road 4 tires on my 2015 1200RT. So I have to decide between the Road 4, the Road 5, or the Dunlop tires. Does anyone have an opinion about which way to go? The Dunlops are about $100 cheaper than the Michelin Road 4s so I am considering going with the Dunlops if all else is equal. I think Michelins are great tires but it seems they are always more expensive than their competitors. Thanks for your input.
 
qbrodie said:
Good conversation about this tire. Other than the difficulty in mounting the tire I saw comments that it was a good tire for tread wear and handling. I am close to the wear bars on my Michelin Pilot Road 4 tires on my 2015 1200RT. So I have to decide between the Road 4, the Road 5, or the Dunlop tires. Does anyone have an opinion about which way to go? The Dunlops are about $100 cheaper than the Michelin Road 4s so I am considering going with the Dunlops if all else is equal. I think Michelins are great tires but it seems they are always more expensive than their competitors. Thanks for your input.
Click to expand...

We get similar wear on the PR4 and Roadsmart3.
I have not tried the Road 5 because of no tread groove at the center or crossing the center of the rear tire.
I have pictures of the PR4 and Roadsmart3 in this thread.
https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?97790-Tire-Wear&highlight=Tire+Wear
 
Lee said:
We get similar wear on the PR4 and Roadsmart3.
I have not tried the Road 5 because of no tread groove at the center or crossing the center of the rear tire.
I have pictures of the PR4 and Roadsmart3 in this thread.
https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?97790-Tire-Wear&highlight=Tire+Wear
Click to expand...

Thanks Lee. I checked out your photos and read the entire thread. Given the price difference between the PR4 and the Roadsmart 3s I think I will go with the Dunlops. I did see another thread where there seems to be a lot of good comments on the Conti RA3s. Buying tires is like buying toothpaste, Too many choices!
 
qbrodie said:
Good conversation about this tire. Other than the difficulty in mounting the tire I saw comments that it was a good tire for tread wear and handling. I am close to the wear bars on my Michelin Pilot Road 4 tires on my 2015 1200RT. So I have to decide between the Road 4, the Road 5, or the Dunlop tires. Does anyone have an opinion about which way to go? The Dunlops are about $100 cheaper than the Michelin Road 4s so I am considering going with the Dunlops if all else is equal. I think Michelins are great tires but it seems they are always more expensive than their competitors. Thanks for your input.
Click to expand...

I have found similar tires by Dunlop to be higher mileage than other brands on different bikes. According to my BMW dealer the guys that are higher mileage riders seem to prefer the Dunlops. I have ridden for a short time less than 1000 miles on the michelins and found them to perform well in both good and bad weather. The bike was totaled by a drunk driver so I did not get to see how they did for longevity. My replacement bike a 2020 RT has metzlers on it and the front tire seems prone to cupping. I have increased the tire pressure to see if this will help. I do realize I use the front brake in an aggressive fashion, a holdover from my days on sport bikes.

Cornering on the tires seems fine and I am not finding traction to be an issue but suspect I will like the metzlers the least out of the tires available for this bike.

Not a scientific batch of data but it is there for what you can use it for. I will be buying Dunlops for replacements when the time comes.:bikes
 
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