Trailering Question

So, I'm looking at purchasing a 28' enclosed car hauler trailer. While it'll serve many purposes for me, one purpose will be to haul motorcycles for group rides. I'm wondering if anybody has experience with how to most efficiently install anchor points that can be flexible enough to move around depending on how many bikes I'll be hauling at any given time. The trailer is finished out very nicely inside, so I don't want to just go around drilling holes all over the place in it every time I need to move a wheel chock to distribute load differently. So maybe there's some kind of low profile product that can mount to the trailer and then other things can mount to it?

chadwick said:

So, I'm looking at purchasing a 28' enclosed car hauler trailer. While it'll serve many purposes for me, one purpose will be to haul motorcycles for group rides. I'm wondering if anybody has experience with how to most efficiently install anchor points that can be flexible enough to move around depending on how many bikes I'll be hauling at any given time. The trailer is finished out very nicely inside, so I don't want to just go around drilling holes all over the place in it every time I need to move a wheel chock to distribute load differently. So maybe there's some kind of low profile product that can mount to the trailer and then other things can mount to it?

Click to expand...

Check out a product called E-Track. You screw down strips of track having regularly spaced slots. Then, you separately purchase detachable d-rings that you can move around where you need them. The track is raised up just slightly from the surface, so you can roll tires over it easily. Sounds like what you need.

Cap

I have E track on my 18 ft trailer. This is the third trailer this set of track has been mounted on. They are durable, easy to use and as flexible as you like. To aid you in deciding how much track to buy and where to mount it draw up some plans on how you see loading it. Typical arrangement is three strips of track that run the length of the trailer. One strip on each edge and one in the middle.

I don’t know what type or how heavy bikes you’re hauling
but I would plan on 4 tie down points per bike. Peace of
mind is a good thing and I’ve never heard anyone say
“I sure wish I wouldn’t have secured those bikes so good.”
Better to have them and not need them...Well, you know.

Good thread here-

https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?88430-U-Haul-motorycle-trailer

Complete with tie-down recommendations.
OM

E-Tracks are the way to go. I have them on the floor of my trailer and there are ones for the walls as well which I added. Very flexible. Add some removable wheel chocks and you are all set. I painted the ramp with a slip resistant paint (basically has sand in it) which assists with loading/unloading if you cant ride the bike in.

I have ordered this for my Ford Transit 250 van. I've seen it set up in trailers/toy haulers, and it's easy to install.


https://www.boltiton.com

chadwick said:

So, I'm looking at purchasing a 28' enclosed car hauler trailer. While it'll serve many purposes for me, one purpose will be to haul motorcycles for group rides. I'm wondering if anybody has experience with how to most efficiently install anchor points that can be flexible enough to move around depending on how many bikes I'll be hauling at any given time. The trailer is finished out very nicely inside, so I don't want to just go around drilling holes all over the place in it every time I need to move a wheel chock to distribute load differently. So maybe there's some kind of low profile product that can mount to the trailer and then other things can mount to it?

Click to expand...

I looked at E-track and decided that I preferred airline track (also called L-track), which is what is used to attach airline seats to the floor. You can see how I installed it on my trailer in this thread

https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?90072-Wolfman-Expedition-Dry-Duffel-Good-for-RT

You can install spot mounts as well as track. I bought my track and tie-down rings from US Cargo Control.

I don’t actually tie the bike to the L-track, as the trailer has welded-on loops that work for me, but the L-track is rated for over 1000 lbs. per fitting.

Cheers, Ken

Another trailer thread

http://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbt...ed-motorcycle-trailer-design-build#Post784106

+1 on Rinkydinks tie 'em down real well comment.

Last summer pulling a long trailer I had a pickup pull out in front of me going from right to left.
He obviously didn't see me coming.
I thought he would stop in the intersection, after he saw me coming, so I cut it hard left.
To my surprise he continued and I, while standing on the brakes, cut it hard right, I thought I was going to hit him in in the door doing about 45 MPH. Just missed his bumper thank god.
I think the trailers electric brakes saved the day. I run them turned up pretty high, not enough to skid, but high.
Everything was tied down real well and no damage.
I was so wigged out, I had to stop for a couple of minutes and walk it off.
Nick

E or L track is great for tiedowns. i also use Condor trailer chocks for the front wheel. they have a low profile mounting base that you can get extras of and put them in the trailer floor permanently in the patterns you will use for bike loading. then the actual chocks themselves can be put on whatever mounting point you need. simple.

https://www.amazon.com/CONDOR-SC-20...ocphy=9008187&hvtargid=pla-592948144234&psc=1

I trailered my GSXR 750 track bike for many years. I don't have an opinion about the track systems but the "method" of tying her down I used is:

I made nylon web ratchet straps that covered the top 1/4 of the tires- front and rear tires. These are the straps that actually held the bike to the trailer.
Then I used two ratchet straps to each side of the frame to hold her upright - left and right, near the seat. These did not have to be extremely taught; just enough to hold her from swaying left to right.
This way I did not rely on compressing the suspension to hold the bike and the straps do not get loose when hitting a large bump. I paid dearly for the suspension setup for my weight so I was not about to compress the suspension unless it was ME compressing the suspension.