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2012 R1200R Damaged Oil Filter Spigot/Mount/Stud

A

aweesner

New member
I over-tightened the oil filter on my 2012 R1200R and severely damaged the threads of the spigot/mount/stud.

Does anyone know if this part can be removed and replaced?

Spigot Stud Mount Stripped Arrow.jpg
 

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    Engine case bottom arrow.jpg
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First off, welcome to the forum:wave

That is not a good thing to see. I looked at parts fiche and it isn’t clear if that is a separate part. Even if so, a case splitting endeavor.
I would take picture to a dealer and get the possible remedies. Folks have removed stuck filters before, but that is a new one to me.

Someone else may have a better take
 
Welcome to the forum!
Nice to have pictures. Is the metal on the threads off the filter? A little probing should tell. A thread chaser should help.
Good luck.
Gary
 
Threads on stud are mushroomed/flattened

To clarify - the threads on the stud are mushroomed and flattened. There is no material from the filter left on the stud.

Thanks!
 
Without polishing the horse apple this is either bad news or worse news. I do not think that stub can be replaced by just buying the part. If it can it will probably require that the engine case be split. Maybe with the engine out of the bike a very good machine shop can bore the damaged part out and cut threads and install a custom made replacement piece.

If that were my bike I would very carefully try to clean up those threads and install a new filter. There really ought not be a great deal of stress on those threads so this might work.
 
Last edited:
PGlaves said:
If that were my bike I would very carefully try to clean up those threads and install a new filter. There reeally ought not be a great deal of stress on those threads so this might work.
Click to expand...

Looks like the first three, or the 2nd and 3rd thread may clean up enough to hold the filter.
 
Can anyone confirm what size the thread is. It’s usually listed under the oil filter specs. I have a prized thread chaser but as it’s adjustable, not sure it would be able to make a revolution.
OM
 
I do not know how the threaded steel filter spigot is mounted on the R1200 motors, but aluminum blocks are common on cars and the spigot usually just threads into the block:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=6Sspezfxx_Y

If the spigot is not available from a dealer, there are several used/junk blocks on ebay. I would contact one of them about the part.
 
If I were in your boat, I would take a new filter to a bolt store and see what fits, and check on of the aftermarket oil filter thread specs, and compare results. Then I would buy that size thread chaser. If that doesn’t work maybe there are non metric filters with smaller tread diameter and you could re-thread the stub. I feel for your situation and hope the best for you.
 
If it were me, i would measure the outside diameter of the thread, measure the thread pitch using a thread gauge and purchase the correct threading die from McMaster-Carr or other industrial supplier and EVER so gently repair the threads...yes, the die would be kinda pricey but WAY cheaper than the alternative...dies are on the order of $45 or so...

just my 2cents worth...:thumb

edit...a bit of digging and i find that the thread is 3/4-16...funny that a SAE thread would be on a metric bike...I would, of course, confirm before ordering a die...

lookie here... https://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterXRef.html#7
 
Lee said:
Looks like the first three, or the 2nd and 3rd thread may clean up enough to hold the filter.
Click to expand...

I forgot this engine does not have a cover over the filter like a K bike Brick engine.
With only two threads if the filter blew off, all the oil would dump in front of the rear tire.
 
I would not take a chance on a questionable repair on this. With the engine running there is 300-400 pounds trying to push off the filter. Like the previous post, if the filter falls off going down the road it might not end well.
 
PoorUB said:
I would not take a chance on a questionable repair on this. With the engine running there is 300-400 pounds trying to push off the filter. Like the previous post, if the filter falls off going down the road it might not end well.
Click to expand...

the oil pressure relief valve is set to to open at 6.5bar ±1bar or between 80 and 110psi...
 
Perhaps double the number I posted. I didn't know what operating oil pressure for the model and used it 30 PSI. 90 PSI would be three times!
 
It seems that these things are designed to be threaded in and out. The trick is how to unscrew the old one and screw in the new one. Check to see of there is an internal hex like for an 8mm or maybe 10mm allen wrench inside the bore of the stub. Then the trick becomes finding one to match the thread set that screws into the engine case.

I think it is time to consult a real good dealer tech who can chase the issue upstram with BMW tech if needed. We are guessing and I've been guessing wrong from the start.
 
Paul’s suggestion of having a dealer/tech chase this upstream with BMW is spot on. A couple of additional questions would be which threadlocker was used at the factory, and whether these are RH or LH threads going into the case. This would be a textbook scenario for using a LH thread. If there’s threadlocker involved it will be tough to get enough heat into the case without disassembly.

It would sure be nice if someone who has walked this path already could chime in, or someone with an old case that could do some hands-on research.

Best,
DeVern
 
GTRiders comment about thread locker is something to consider. BMW seems to like using the equivalent of red Locktite in a lot of places and applying heat to the bottom of the crankcase could be tricky.
 
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