/5 thrust bearing servicing

Anyone have some links to servicing the thrust bearing? Video perhaps? Haven't been in there in a long time and can't remember if I can pull the actuating rod out and still get it back in without removing gearbox.

If you are doing the thrust bearing, you can do it without pulling the transmission. If you intend to remove the pushrod for the clutch, then you will be better off removing the trans. But for just the thrust bearing you would disengage the clutch cable, remove the clutch arm pivot and then the arm, then remove all the parts of the thrust bearing. A small magnet often comes in handy for that. Not a difficult job, just a little finicky (technical term).

Please: what do you mean by thrust bearing. I am aware of two that position the crankshaft fore and aft in the engine case. I don't think you mean these by interpreting the conversation. Do you mean the clutch "throw out" bearing, or what?

Thanks. If I recall correctly, there is just a felt pad and the bearing to extract?

Part #4 here, called "bearing ball cage" on the fiche, later years called the "needle cage":

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=0260-EUR-04-1971-2476-BMW-R75_5&diagId=21_0071

#3 and higher can be removed from the rear. Don't try and take the felt off the rod...that's best done when the transmission is removed.

It had been so long I had forgotten that the rod tip sticking out is part of the piston (once the lever assembly is removed). Futzed (Deutsch for "dicked") around for a while before realizing I could just pull on that rod tip to extract the piston and that I was not pulling the actual actuator rod rearward. After that, the bearing and then the "reinforcement" disc came out easily with a magnet. Whoever was last in there put the grooved side of the "reinforcement" disc forward and the smooth side against the bearing. This could be the noise I was hearing though why it took me 15+ years to hear it is beyond me.
In any case the bearing was in fine condition -and wet as it should be - which is what I really wanted to check. Re-assembled correctly and tested - it's quiet but need to run up to op temp to see for sure.
Those old micro-fiche are at times misleading and at others confusing. Ah well, alls well that ends well.