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Trouble installing spring/damper assembly in 2007 1200 GS Telelever front suspension

blueridgespeed

New member
So I learned a lot about my 2007 by (reading here and elsewhere) and doing quite a bit of front body and crash bar dissassembly in order to replace the front and rear stock units with a Wilber's set that meets my specs better.

The rear was a relative breeze - and proper thread sealant and torque values from the previous wrencher were appreciated and replicated.

The Front assembly was more tricky. I was just one person and without a stand, I was attentive to not dropping the bike or worse.

I needed to GAIN EXTENSION (droop travel) in order to get the OE shock out.

When on the centerstand and the front of the bike is jacked slightly with a floor jack, the front wheel can be lifted off the floor.

I noticed a brake line to the fender brace/yoke from a frame-mounted junction was tight and limited droop, easily remedied by unbolting the junction from the frame.

Then I wanted my invisible helper to push down on the rear of the bike. My children were asleep and, even if willing, they might not weigh enough to compress the bike much.

A ratchet strap through the rear subframe and wheel gently compressed the rear suspension a couple inches and game me the front end lift I needed to get the old shock out.

I installed the new shock, and STRANGELY, the front stanchions still seem to be fully extended.

It's such that I can't get enough of the top shock stud to protrude through the top "headset" area mount point.

This seems strange! I would figure the telelever would easily collapse without and support from the damper... but it won't

I gently tried standing in a riding position and "pushing down on the handlebars" and even rocking a bit back and forth and applying the front brake....

--------

Of course this must make sense, but it's got me confused.

What could be preventing the front suspension from compressing? Is there any "preload" in the stanchions? My understanding is that they are largely passive and that the spring and damping were all provided by the shock unit.

I'm concerned that in extending the stanchions to get the old shock out, that I over-extended them somehow? Again I would'nt think this is possible but if droop travel were limited by damper, perhaps I could have...

I'm hoping there is just a slight bind...and that (once I get someone to spot me) I can try to hop up and down on the bike and compress the "forks".

With the top of the shock captured, but still not fully seated, I'm reluctant to do anything resembling actually "riding' the bike of course.

Any ridicule, insight, or help would be recommended.

If I don't hear from anyone, I'll post what more I figure out, if anything.
 
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Any chance that the tubes were pulled out so far that they are cocked in the lowers?

Without the shock in place everything should slide up and down with no effort.
 
There are 3 guide bushings stacked up inside each fork leg. My guess is that 1 of the fork tubes is sitting on top of the bottom bushing. Try pushing the front wheel front to back. If that doesn’t work, try to rotate the tubes. You may need to pull the rubber covers at the top and loosen the locknuts. There are also air bleed screws at the top of the forks. Possible you have an air lock in the legs.
 
I installed the new shock, and STRANGELY, the front stanchions still seem to be fully extended.
It's such that I can't get enough of the top shock stud to protrude through the top "headset" area mount point.
Any ridicule, insight, or help would be recommended.

I had a similar problem installing a rebuilt front shock on an ‘11 GS. In my case, there was a collar spacer on top of the shock that needed to be centered in the frame headstock hole. I had to remove to bottom shock bolt again to finesse it though the frame properly.
 
I had a similar problem installing a rebuilt front shock on an ‘11 GS. In my case, there was a collar spacer on top of the shock that needed to be centered in the frame headstock hole. I had to remove to bottom shock bolt again to finesse it though the frame properly.


That was my first guess, but the collar spacer isn't even contacting. Thank you
 
There are 3 guide bushings stacked up inside each fork leg. My guess is that 1 of the fork tubes is sitting on top of the bottom bushing. Try pushing the front wheel front to back. If that doesn’t work, try to rotate the tubes. You may need to pull the rubber covers at the top and loosen the locknuts. There are also air bleed screws at the top of the forks. Possible you have an air lock in the legs.

Thank you Chuck. I'll try those methods.
 
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